Nik's Poulan Thread

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I've never gotten so lucky as to have a clutch come off. Not saying it can't but I always seem to fight with them lol
I will be more mindful however.

Anyone have a chain adjuster screw setup? This one is totally missing.

I also wanna muffler mod this, anyone got pics of something tried and true? I'm gonna remove the spark screen and cut one side out of the baffle like I did on my jonsered 2034 but I'm not sure what to do for the outlet.

2b2r, the two rear corner outlets on your 3400 muffler are 0.75 square inch area . The diffuser area is 0.882 square inch . The baffle six holes add up to 0.502 square inch area .
You could open four of the six baffle holes .
 
what did you use in place of the woodruff key to advance the timing? I resume something a little thinner so u could move flywheel counterclockwise?
I would open up the coil holes on the bottom side and let the coil rotate up. Never mind not enough room, you need. 30 for 5*
 
what did you use in place of the woodruff key to advance the timing? I resume something a little thinner so u could move flywheel counterclockwise?

Before Cory get's back.

I believe some guys use a penny and make a key from that.


I think the best way is to download a degree wheel from the internet and glue it onto a piece of card stock so you know what your timing changes are.

I have filed the backside of the key area that sits above the crankshaft keyway. I mark the key with red marker when it's seated in the keyway, pull it out and put it in a vice and file a bit off. Doing it this way will advance the timing but without a degree wheel you won't be able to measure how much it was advanced, so......

key.png

Bear with me while I think this through. Math was never my strong point so I may need some correction here from you guys that are math strong.

Assuming the crankshaft dia is .625" (3400 through 4000 series) and the circumference of a circle is = pi X diameter

The circumference would be 3.1416 X .625= 1.964"

Divide that to get a degree dimension by 360 deg.

1.964" / 360 = .0055"

That tells me that for every 5-1/2 thou I take off the back of the key, I advance the timing by one degree over the stock setting.

Makes sense to me.

Anybody?
 
I would open up the coil holes on the bottom side and let the coil rotate up. Never mind not enough room, you need. 30 for 5*
Wouldn’t that retard the timing? My understanding is you want to move the flywheel counterclockwise a hair. Would seem if you move the coil instead , you would want to lower it a bit. On second thought , moving the flywheel counterclockwise in effect ,I suppose ,raises the coil. I think!
 
Before Cory get's back.

I believe some guys use a penny and make a key from that.


I think the best way is to download a degree wheel from the internet and glue it onto a piece of card stock so you know what your timing changes are.

I have filed the backside of the key area that sits above the crankshaft keyway. I mark the key with red marker when it's seated in the keyway, pull it out and put it in a vice and file a bit off. Doing it this way will advance the timing but without a degree wheel you won't be able to measure how much it was advanced, so......

View attachment 638223

Bear with me while I think this through. Math was never my strong point so I may need some correction here from you guys that are math strong.

Assuming the crankshaft dia is .625" (3400 through 4000 series) and the circumference of a circle is = pi X diameter

The circumference would be 3.1416 X .625= 1.964"

Divide that to get a degree dimension by 360 deg.

1.964" / 360 = .0055"

That tells me that for every 5-1/2 thou I take off the back of the key, I advance the timing by one degree over the stock setting.

Makes sense to me.

Anybody?
Good Golly Miss Molly!
 
On another subject. Has anyone compared the performance between a 3700 and PP365? Got a PP365 from Joe and it seems to have more grunt, though I haven’t put either in wood.

Yep few of us noticed that and why we sell those series. It's a win win. Lighter and faster cutting 365 3500 and then you go 380 3750 for even better.

Why I been selling every 3400 3700 375 3800 4000 that comes through my hands.

Now how can you tell more grunt without putting in the wood is my question? But yes they are faster cutting in the wood.
 
Started cutting on this pile
9d0d3fc7171f1588df162e2cfb1977d7.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
No you rotate into the direction of the turn of the flywheel to advance the timing, coil moves up. If you use the flywheel to advance then it goes with the turn

And that would be CCW.

I have used the penny trick on plenty of saws. Sometimes it is almost to much advance. But it does work.
 
On another subject. Has anyone compared the performance between a 3700 and PP365? Got a PP365 from Joe and it seems to have more grunt, though I haven’t put either in wood.
I ran them both. The 365 had a higher compression number but can't remember it. My thin ring 3.7 is very low hour and I think that saw had 160psi. The 3.7 had more lean on grunt and the 365 def turned faster. It's hard not to like those later 60cc poulans.
 
Wouldn't ccw retarded timing?

Steve

Steve,

The flywheel turns in the counter clockwise direction and if we want to increase timing advance we want the magnets on the flywheel to pass the laminations on the coil sooner for a given piston position in the stroke.
So, we move the flywheel counter clockwise to get them closer to the magnets.
Make sense?

That's why raising the coil position would move the contact to a later time and would retard the timing.
 

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