When the gov's went bad in saws I had. It wouldnt get up to rpm's and cut pig fat. BB block off and ran great again.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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Chuck it in your vice, use your best square shank screwdriver & a small crescent wrench.
It’s some kind of epoxy.
Just wanted to thank you all for the questions and the knowledge that answers them. So much to learn one day at a time.
It's a good community full of good people that would never get the chance to know each other I really enjoy being part of it. And keeps these old gems out of the scrap and into the wood too
No, that’s OK.
Cool yea it had dam neer 2mm before and was chewing into the case. Not good glad I got told to sort it out as it was running well but would have flown to bits eventually and the piston needed some love too
This is what I came up with do you think it will be ok to get the gov out
I think I laid some heat to one governor with a soldering iron and the sealant softened up.
Kensie1988
Vintage Saw Maniac
I removed the choke butterfly step so I could get a square seat with my screw driver, that helps A LOT
Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
I've pulled a lot of the governors on the HS-series carbs. Pull the choke plate. I set a vice on the floor and carefully clamp the carb (with taped jaws). The choke shaft can be rotated to clear the governor with the plate removed. Use a scrench that has a fat driver. Put another driver through the handle to make a T-driver. Lean into it and the sealant will let go with the added torque.
As mentioned, I just cut a disk out of gasket stock and thread it back in. I turn a dollop of Motoseal on the threads when running it down for kicks.
Some manufactures went so far as to equip versions with additional semi-fixed high nozzles to alleviate the problem of saws being run too lean via operator adjustment - with the added governor taking care of other devastating leaks. ----> 9xx series come to mind. I have found the governor can actually mask other air leaks and hinder performance or when troubleshooting what one thinks of as erratic "carb" issues. Just tune them rich enough and make certain you have passed a pressure/vac test.
As mentioned, I just cut a disk out of gasket stock and thread it back in. I turn a dollop of Motoseal on the threads when running it down for kicks.
Some manufactures went so far as to equip versions with additional semi-fixed high nozzles to alleviate the problem of saws being run too lean via operator adjustment - with the added governor taking care of other devastating leaks. ----> 9xx series come to mind. I have found the governor can actually mask other air leaks and hinder performance or when troubleshooting what one thinks of as erratic "carb" issues. Just tune them rich enough and make certain you have passed a pressure/vac test.
I'd be scared to use that on a carb, one slip, don't think it would be pretty. Defiantly try a soldering iron on it to get the sealer to lossen. I've heated brake caliper mounting bracket bolts that had loctite on them, makes a big difference getting the bolts out, no fighting with it.
Steve
Happy Thanksgiving everyone.
Steve
Steve
The impact gun was a joke, I was hoping it would get a few more comments like, "you need another reducer", or" it will work better if you add a 2 foot extension". My bad ,
Hoggwood, do you have any governors that are still good, id like to get a spare one for later if I ever need it
Enjoy your family today and eat lots of good food, travel safe
Dug into the green saw after work. Pulled the jug off. Chucked the gasket. Measured the bore... turns out it’s a 3700. Oh well. All looked fine. Got my plastic manifold bolted on and slammed it back together.
Got curious so I popped the jug off the orange saw and it’s a 4000 for sure. Thought about swapping top ends but decided against it. I’ll keep an eye out for a really clean 3400 or something and do it one day.
Got curious so I popped the jug off the orange saw and it’s a 4000 for sure. Thought about swapping top ends but decided against it. I’ll keep an eye out for a really clean 3400 or something and do it one day.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is it a 3700 or 3800? 3700 and 4000 have thin rings whereas the 3800 has standard thick rings. Rings on a 3400 and 3700 are quite different. Only reason I asked was you stated you measured the bore. Looking at the rings would have immediately told you if it was a 3400 or 3700. Nothing wrong with a 3800.
Was time to make room for more test cookies last night.
Happy Thanksgiving. Remember the military folks that dont have a choice of being with family too.
Happy Thanksgiving. Remember the military folks that dont have a choice of being with family too.
Well I've seen worst, ever see anyone tighten lug nuts on a car with a 3/4 impact wrench, not a pretty sight. Lol. That was a good joke Todd.
Steve
That kind of sucks on the 3700 but it's only 3cc behind and a great saw. I'm sure you will find a 3400 and make a runner out of it. I took 2 of my 3400 and made a 3700 and a hot ported 3800 from the other, hard to tell the difference. Had a extra 4000 cover on the 3800 now it's going on the new 4000 when I have 2 hands that work.
