Must be loaded RPM surely
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Must be loaded RPM surely
You must be right. Next time I cut some more wood I will tach it with it in the wood and see what it is doing.
The only problem is what type of wood and what size of wood did they check it in if that is what the maximum RPM range is for.
Yeah it's a pretty variable number really I guess. Never tached any saw yet I rely on the old lug holes but out of curiosity might get 1 someday
Collectors wanting my poulan rollernose bars. So got them out.
Guessing 14" being 16 1/4" long. One 1/4" chain was 77DL. Didnt count the other 2.
Had 3 sets of bars and chain. 1 set already sold and shipped.
Sold all of that series of saws already. But kept them for a idea I never used them for.
Guessing 14" being 16 1/4" long. One 1/4" chain was 77DL. Didnt count the other 2.
Had 3 sets of bars and chain. 1 set already sold and shipped.
Sold all of that series of saws already. But kept them for a idea I never used them for.
Hi guys,I just bought a S25D on Ebay.I got the saw yesterday & was surprised it had fire.I got it to run on a prime.I popped off the muffler & was surprised to see 2 baffles in there along with a spark arrestor screen,the screen is history & wondering if I should have only one baffle in the muffler?The P&C look good with no scoring.The fuel line was toast,so I put a new one in today.I'm fairly sure a carb rebuild is in the near future as well.The oiler button & rod are missing.I can get a new one from Bob Johnson.What's involved with putting in the new oil pump rod & button.I know I'll have to take the 3 allen screws out of the air box.Are there any short cuts,or is everything pretty much straightforward?Thanks in advance! P.S.If anyone has a spare electronic ignition module for a S25DA I'd greatly appreciate it!
Not an English teacher, but paragraphs would make your post easier to read & answer...I see & read your posts over on the HOH website too. Glad to see you purchase a Poulan S25D, congrats!
All of mine have 2 diffusers (baffles) with the screen sandwiched in between.
Don’t need to pull the three allen heads out, that black push button snaps in from the top. Put the pushrod into the bottom of the button first, then lower it down in.
If you ever do pull the top three allens & take the top handle off, make sure you have a new gasket first!
You will however need to pull the flywheel, to see the hole in the plastic pump piston cap where the rod end inserts. The vintage 35+ year old automatic oiler diaphragm is likely shot in that saw, but if the manual oiler works, you’re good to go!
I’m also looking for a 5300-39141 or a 39088 CDI coil, just got beat out on FleaBay for one last week, so keep watching.
All of mine have 2 diffusers (baffles) with the screen sandwiched in between.
Don’t need to pull the three allen heads out, that black push button snaps in from the top. Put the pushrod into the bottom of the button first, then lower it down in.
If you ever do pull the top three allens & take the top handle off, make sure you have a new gasket first!
You will however need to pull the flywheel, to see the hole in the plastic pump piston cap where the rod end inserts. The vintage 35+ year old automatic oiler diaphragm is likely shot in that saw, but if the manual oiler works, you’re good to go!
I’m also looking for a 5300-39141 or a 39088 CDI coil, just got beat out on FleaBay for one last week, so keep watching.
I forgot to mention that I also bought a 306A
I wasn't aware the S25D had an auto oiler as well.That could explain all of the oil in the cylinder (bad pump diaphragm).
You’re right. If it’s a true D, then it won’t auto oil & you’ll have no bad diaphragm, lol.
If I'm not mistaken, S25DA is auto oiler with manuel backup. I know mine has it, but not the S25D.
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Sent from my SM-G550T using Tapatalk
If I'm not mistaken, S25DA is auto oiler with manuel backup. I know mine has it.
Sent from my SM-G550T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G550T using Tapatalk
redunshee
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Again, is been awhile. I believe you remove the top of the fuel tank and you'll see the nipple that is part of the saw body.
So I did some testing today with the 3400. 20" bar with round ground chisel chain. Nothing special. The saw is tuned at 13,000 rpm's and is 4 stroking good. I have a piece of lodge pole pine 12" diameter.
When the saw first hits the wood I saw the tach go to 12,500 rpm's and when it hit the middle at 12" the tach read 10,500 rpm's.
Not to bad and the saw starts easy and always on one or two pulls. All in all I like it.
Also I am 5000 ft above seal level here which does affect performance.
When the saw first hits the wood I saw the tach go to 12,500 rpm's and when it hit the middle at 12" the tach read 10,500 rpm's.
Not to bad and the saw starts easy and always on one or two pulls. All in all I like it.
Also I am 5000 ft above seal level here which does affect performance.
Sleeper saw Roger, as it’s actually running a lowered 3700 thin ring top end, correct?
I do like replacing the original 3400 green painted top cover (paint peels off in pieces) with the black plastic one, it helps dress them up.
Yes you are correct. Anybody looking at the saw would think it is just another 3400.
I have 2 Stihl 036's here one muffler modded the other stock and this 3400 would out cut them easy.
So Randy is it only the older 3400 that had the green painted cylinder and filter cover and the later ones like the one I have with the black covers with a little different looking decal on the recoil.
Yes, I believe that is correct. Have only seen the early saws with the painted green covers.
Paint adhesion was an issue, I guess that the Krylon Fusion technology for painting plastic parts wasn’t available back then, lol.
That’s a desirable late model 3400 for sure, with the label & paint scheme, the hexagon rear mount spacer & the flat choke knob like the 4000.
Leather face Saw!
I had asked this question last September (2019), but all I heard were crickets, lol.
“Any Poulan experts know the differences between the 530039088/530039111 and the 530039141/530047198 combination CDI type coil/FW packages for the late S25DAs?”
The 39088 coil is from the CVA’s IPL and the 47198 FW is from the yellow PoulanPro IPL, which also shares the same FW with the later plastic micro 2300.
Thanks, is Stephen (acorn hill) still around sometimes?
“Any Poulan experts know the differences between the 530039088/530039111 and the 530039141/530047198 combination CDI type coil/FW packages for the late S25DAs?”
The 39088 coil is from the CVA’s IPL and the 47198 FW is from the yellow PoulanPro IPL, which also shares the same FW with the later plastic micro 2300.
Thanks, is Stephen (acorn hill) still around sometimes?
Nos poulan clutch cover and recoil cover and some used ones too.
Was digging out some parts to throw a recoil together to test a redneck idea I seen on CRG.
Was surprised how well it does work. Even matches the 372 cover I done to test to see.
I wont ever have this problem as I have many unused handles in bin. But some guy at home that happens to have one it sure seems to beat the stick if needed in a pinch. But in the woods stick wins.
Plus it goes good with the redneck side tensioner cover I did for the 445 testing earlier.
Was digging out some parts to throw a recoil together to test a redneck idea I seen on CRG.
Was surprised how well it does work. Even matches the 372 cover I done to test to see.
I wont ever have this problem as I have many unused handles in bin. But some guy at home that happens to have one it sure seems to beat the stick if needed in a pinch. But in the woods stick wins.
Plus it goes good with the redneck side tensioner cover I did for the 445 testing earlier.
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