Nik's Poulan Thread

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In case anybody is wondering, gasket material doesnt make a good airtight seal for vacuum and pressure testing. Working on an old McCulloch 10-10 that I wanted to test to see if it was worth the effort. Couldn't get a good seal so ended upgrabbing a thin piece of rubber and made what I needed. Didnt leak a bit and ended up getting it running.
I use pieces of an old innertube from a car. Works fine.
 
Was talking about the 3700/4000 pistons, but I don’t think the 3400 is even hard chrome plated, but it should be.
What chrome, just a mirror polish til you run two tank with it. Then it's WTF when you pull it down cause of a loss of power. I hadn't looked at his 3700/4000 pistons, getting screwed on the 3400 was good enough of a lesson.

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Nope, not in a hurry. Saws at 125psi and runs good, bit figured it'd be better to grab something now before eeverything becomes NLA.
Kinda like to keep it stock as it'll be lucky to run a couple hrs a year so extra power really not req'd.
I have that craftsman 3700 I bought for parts. Havent check compression yet. If it's in better shape then the Poulan maybe I'll swap it over and get the 4000 kit for that to toy around with.
Thanks guys.

A set of rings might do the trick on your best piston.
 
Just worked on a brand new one. So glad to see them change from that crap yellow epa line they tried.

Another one that would start but not stay running. Easy peasy for me to tune for him.

Also removed last years mix he put in it and put some e-free of mine.

Plus confirmed the side tensioner I seen in ad sells pics.

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Did you have a chance to do much cutting with this? Someone mentioned they still liked the PP5020 better than the PR. I’ve been tempted to grab a PR when they are marked down to $150
 
Did you have a chance to do much cutting with this? Someone mentioned they still liked the PP5020 better than the PR. I’ve been tempted to grab a PR when they are marked down to $150

No it was brand new and wouldnt stay running from get go. Owner was with me so fixed issues and he left.
(My PP5020 was same way out of the box)

I do hope it comes back in a year or so. Like to see those newer fuel lines they used and how they held up. Then maybe I can cut some too.
 
@svk They went to side tensioner. That was a plus.

Didnt get to see how good that part was made though.
Always a good choice right @chipper1

Let me know if you get some trigger time. Like I said I looked at it this spring when they were 150 delivered but then I was buried in project saws which I have yet to see the end of.
 
This is why I pull known good coils from running saws. Pulled one from 33 parts saw and was no good. So onto to another one and good to go.
Would just fire off sometimes. Tested old school and new tester both show no good.

One from the 28 was good. So the CV19-2 is back up and running.

pcoilx.jpgpcoilgap.jpg
 
Its funny this talk of bad coils, as I just experienced this for the first time. Couple weeks ago, before this crappy hot weather hit, I was bucking up a fairly large Maple tree with my most used saw, a 4000. Been running quite a while when it did its thing a saw does when running out of fuel. Falters and goes lean and quits. I refueled and drank some water and a short break. Went to refire, and nothing, not a pop, fart or anything.

I tried choke, even tried pouring a little down carb. Nothing. Took it back to barn, pulled plug, looked fine. Gave it a pull test with plug out of saw, no spark. (yes I checked to see if switch was on) ;)
Tried new plug, still no spark. Figured it had to be coil. Robbed one off a 3400 and yahoo, spark again. Couple pulls and saw fired back to life. That is the first time ever that I can remember of having a coil "go bad". My question to those a lot smarter than me, Is what actually goes bad in the coil? Not like there is a lot of moving parts happening in there,

Gregg,
 
Its funny this talk of bad coils, as I just experienced this for the first time. Couple weeks ago, before this crappy hot weather hit, I was bucking up a fairly large Maple tree with my most used saw, a 4000. Been running quite a while when it did its thing a saw does when running out of fuel. Falters and goes lean and quits. I refueled and drank some water and a short break. Went to refire, and nothing, not a pop, fart or anything.

I tried choke, even tried pouring a little down carb. Nothing. Took it back to barn, pulled plug, looked fine. Gave it a pull test with plug out of saw, no spark. (yes I checked to see if switch was on) ;)
Tried new plug, still no spark. Figured it had to be coil. Robbed one off a 3400 and yahoo, spark again. Couple pulls and saw fired back to life. That is the first time ever that I can remember of having a coil "go bad". My question to those a lot smarter than me, Is what actually goes bad in the coil? Not like there is a lot of moving parts happening in there,

Gregg,
Not including the blue module Homelites, coil failure is fairly rare. I have only had a few bad coils between nearly 30 years of cutting and owning a low 6 figure number of saws since acquiring CAD.

The wiring within them can burn through, and often the housing cracks and moisture gets inside and wrecks stuff or shorts them out. Sometimes if you have a coil with a cracked housing you can bake it at a low temp to cook the moisture out. We did that with one of my trucks. It died in my cabin driveway and after a wet snowstorm there was no way we could tow it out so we heated the coil, got it running, then drove to the parts store for a new one and drove home without shutting it off so residual heat would keep the coil dry.

Several times though, I have had a saw quit with no spark to find that the flywheel to coil gap was too open so I re-gapped with a business card and went back to working. This is most common when someone else had been working on the saw before I acquired it......
 
Possible a break/ burn in the field winding, transistor burn out. Same as a older style coil in an automobile. They quite for no apparent reason.

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More likely the capacitor, item 146, just like your home AC unit...but that main Darlington transistor 158 is highly suspect.

BB8862C3-75CF-45BC-A4B6-FBF7A099048F.png
 
More likely the capacitor, item 146, just like your home AC unit...but that main Darlington transistor 158 is highly suspect.

View attachment 841039
Holy crap! See what I mean about folks that are smarter than me on this subject..o_O That might as well be battle plans written in Russian. I'd be lost and probably dead. lol

Gregg
 

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