Nik's Poulan Thread

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Very nice 3400, congratulations!

Why do so many of you think chain saws need spikes? IMHO, they just block part of your bar length from being used. As all of you fully know and it is so self evident that a properly sharpened chain with properly adjusted rakers will self feed. Are Spikes for many you a crutch for not properly sharpening and adjusting the raker height?

Lets go Bradan!

buck a log bigger than yer bar from one side
when saw is vertical on far side, not much "self feeding" goin on
 
Roger you have done this on bare bore saws like 3400 etc? I never tried doing a bare bore before, was to scared.

Others I do on every rebuild. Love the results.

After cleaning any transfer. Then quick crosshatching for new rings.

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Yep you are right Kevin. Forgot we were talking about a 3400 bare bore cylinder. I do not think I would run a ball hone through one of those. Thanks for the correction.
 
Your mileage may very, Regardles of the "looks cool" Blah, Blah, Blah, I stand by my, IMHO spikes are a waste of good steel.
That's why saw makers put them on high end saws....so they can waste good steel, blah!
 
Happy new year all.

I'm doing a P&C on a well used Poulan Pro 295. Picture shows the clutch side of crank with oiler gear blocking removal of bearing and seal.
It's presently in the freezer, and will get a little flame on the oiler gear in an attempt to differentially expand the press fit.
I know I probably will only need to make it hot and not molten to remove. I'll need to heat it up again prior to re-install.

Good plan? Easier way?

IMG_20211231_190828978.jpg
 
When you remove the oiler worm gear make sure to note where it is located. Also they make a piece that will screw on the worm gear and then you can use a puller to remove it. I have used a small two jaw puller that I ground the ends on to make it thinner in the past.
 
When you remove the oiler worm gear make sure to note where it is located. Also they make a piece that will screw on the worm gear and then you can use a puller to remove it. I have used a small two jaw puller that I ground the ends on to make it thinner in the past.
Yup. Puller makes it so easy. Like my dear old dad, a retired HVAC guy once said, you gotta have the right tools.
 
Good price on one.
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Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk
 
Having seen the puller for around $50 on eBay, I was surprised to see the Amazon price in a Google search.
Total worked out under $30 with tax and shipping. Arrives in a week or so.
Not tried this personally but might be worth looking into for $5.
One chance in a million that pipe thread would match up on that gear.
 

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Not tried this personally but might be worth looking into for $5.
One chance in a million that pipe thread would match up on that gear.
Having seen the puller for around $50 on eBay, I was surprised to see the Amazon price in a Google search.
Total worked out under $30 with tax and shipping. Arrives in a week or so.
Looks like I ordered the last one on Amazon at that price. If I actually get it, I will measure the thread and pitch, I may be able to make some out of a long socket or possibly some stock aluminum tubing by drilling and tapping it out. We will see what I can come up with if I actually receive it. Price for one on Amazon now is $51 from another vendor.
 
Looks like I ordered the last one on Amazon at that price. If I actually get it, I will measure the thread and pitch, I may be able to make some out of a long socket or possibly some stock aluminum tubing by drilling and tapping it out. We will see what I can come up with if I actually receive it. Price for one on Amazon now is $51 from another vendor.

I got mine back in October for just over $30 with tax and shipping. Glad I ordered it when I did now.[emoji41]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Bought a bunch of service tools (used) quite a few years ago. 3 different pullers. Haven’t used them a lot. Black one works on Husky 50 etc. Don’t know which Poulans, if any. The T-handle matches some of the OEM Husky tools in the lot, but I can’t find it anywhere in their catalogue. works (albeit, a bit loose) on the 2800, 3000’s etc. Wouldn’t mind info on the T-handle if anyone recognizes it. No PN’s on any of them.


D00BC231-FF19-4C09-B20A-7032F3AC3BE7.jpeg8AB80C02-5F67-46C4-81CF-C6FD5CB79FD7.jpegAD6F8750-C59D-4B41-BA33-E4ABE52F74CF.jpeg
 
The large & small T handles, also called U wrenches, are likely part numbers “502506602 U spannerand 502506701. I was thinking that there’s also a third size.

Jack’s small engine has some saw application info for them, if you enter the tool part number.

One of them does work on Poulan 3400 & 4200/5200 series saw isolators, but you really have to work closely to engage the tips into the inner isolator’s washer tab slots.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...acturer/husqvarna/tools/service-tools-1985-01
 
The crap you go though sometimes just to remove a part.
First left hand bit. Didn’t work but left just right size to use easy out.
But it's really nice when you have the right tools. Just like I told my ex- many years ago, "she can't have enough shoes, and I can't have enough tools". I think I won, she quit buying shoes, but I kept buying tools. I have stuff I forgot I had. One thing I don't remember what it was used for.
 

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