Nik's Poulan Thread

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For 46cc they are not a bad saw. If I am not mistaken I think they were made before the Husqvarna days.
Great now I have to get my shoes on and go check!!!! Lol I’ll never get to sleep wandering!
Would be a while before I could play with it though. I have multiple in progress at the moment.
 
So I finally got a new Oregon bar/chain combo for my 4218avx. Turn out the new bar had same nose sprocket as the current bar that we thought was worn out. Take a look. I put the new bar on with old chain (drive links seemed really similar shape wise as the new chain), and tensioned up to same tension I had when I had old bar on, and the chain pulled through by hand the same on both bars. I’m beginning to think the quick stopping of the chain when releasing throttle is normal. A couple YouTube vids on the saw seem to show that. I’m just not used to it.
Patrick , have you replaced the worn out drive sprocket ?
If you have a new drive sprocket , new chain and a new bar you will be able to adjust the chain tension so there is no sag of the chain below the bar and no drag as you pull the chain from the saw towards the bar nose .
A worn drive sprocket will cause the chain to grab the three wear grooves on each tooth of the worn drive sprocket as you pull the chain .
When you pull the chain you can see it loosen and tighten as it goes over each drive sprocket tooth .
When running the saw with a worn drive sprocket the pitch is less and a no sag no drag chain tension will use up a lot of the 4218 power .
 
Patrick , have you replaced the worn out drive sprocket ?
If you have a new drive sprocket , new chain and a new bar you will be able to adjust the chain tension so there is no sag of the chain below the bar and no drag as you pull the chain from the saw towards the bar nose .
A worn drive sprocket will cause the chain to grab the three wear grooves on each tooth of the worn drive sprocket as you pull the chain .
When you pull the chain you can see it loosen and tighten as it goes over each drive sprocket tooth .
When running the saw with a worn drive sprocket the pitch is less and a no sag no drag chain tension will use up a lot of the 4218 power .
I bought this for my 2900 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/323320020557?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 . The side cover is a bit rubbish but I am a fan of the replaceable sprocket type and 3/8 was a bonus.
 
I fixed up this 2750 with cracked case but runner into my root cutter for this year. Seems same 46cc as the 295 2900 etc. Couldnt tell ya jack about the seals or bearings as I dont go that deep on these unless parting one.

I have a 46cc craftsman apart I been parting I might look at to see which it has now.

p2750rnnnn.jpgp2750rnnn.jpgc46cca.jpg
 
Check out the weight on these saws. Not bad.

View attachment 955079

Yeah. This is the main reason I bought my PP295. Power to weight.
I needed something bigger than the Craftsman 2.0 I started with, and looked through specs online.
This platform came up as one of the lightest 46cc saws.

This one was also a learning experience about what to assess when buying a used saw.
(Hint: Words are useless, feel the compression and look at condition).
 
I fixed up this 2750 with cracked case but runner into my root cutter for this year. Seems same 46cc as the 295 2900 etc. Couldnt tell ya jack about the seals or bearings as I dont go that deep on these unless parting one.

I have a 46cc craftsman apart I been parting I might look at to see which it has now.

View attachment 955131View attachment 955132View attachment 955134
Maybe I'm old but I prefer a non strato 2800 over the newer strato saws. That and the 2800 is a split case saw and not a clamshell.
 
Maybe I'm old but I prefer a non strato 2800 over the newer strato saws. That and the 2800 is a split case saw and not a clamshell.
I prefer the mag cased 46cc 2700 2800 too over the plastic.

2750 and ones they are talking about are not the newer strato either but plastic clammys though.

p2700.JPG
 
I’m not going to be on this saw any time soon , but I have a little countervibe I fell in love with a while back. Did the carb , lines and a thorough cleaning. Me and the little powerhouse tore up a few rics and it was really impressive. Then all the sudden it all went south. Acted like air getting in somewhere. Running erratic as can be. Since it was the first one I had in my shop I though I’d seek out the thoughts of you fellas on where I might start when it makes its way to the bench.
 
I’m not going to be on this saw any time soon , but I have a little countervibe I fell in love with a while back. Did the carb , lines and a thorough cleaning. Me and the little powerhouse tore up a few rics and it was really impressive. Then all the sudden it all went south. Acted like air getting in somewhere. Running erratic as can be. Since it was the first one I had in my shop I though I’d seek out the thoughts of you fellas on where I might start when it makes its way to the bench.
Yep crank seals.
 
Look at the similarity between the pistons for the Countervibe 4200 and a Husqv 359. I wish I had measured the 4200 squish before I took it apart. (Anybody know what the typical reading is?)
20220116_184834.jpg
A 47mm ring fits in the 4200 bore with zero clearance, would need a wee bit of filing. The Poulan pin is 13mm and the Husqv is 12mm but the center to crown distance is very close.
20220116_185154.jpg
The Husqv skirt is a bit shorter too. Hmmm
 
The seals arrived and fit the type 1/2 crankcase.
IMG_20220115_131903613.jpg

The frame was cleaned up well enough to avoid contaminating the new parts.
IMG_20220115_132018712.jpg

I used rtv around the metal to metal junction. There is no gasket to use or delete.
IMG_20220115_133152526.jpg

IMG_20220115_133814833.jpg

Everything else came together, but the whole intake side is the most awkward assembly I've seen.
So far the oil tank is not leaking. Fuel tank yet to be given a practical test.

Might get to run it this week. 🤞
 
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