Nik's Poulan Thread

[Hoggwood]

The large & small T handles, also called U wrenches, are likely part numbers “502506602 U spanner” and 502506701. I was thinking that there’s also a third size.

Jack’s small engine has some saw application info for them, if you enter the tool part number.

One of them does work on Poulan 3400 & 4200/5200 series saw isolators, but you really have to work closely to engage the tips into the inner isolator’s washer tab slots.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...acturer/husqvarna/tools/service-tools-1985-01

Thanks for the link Randy. There are in fact 3 different size T-handle isolator wrenches in my stash. Didn’t show the smaller one (just the two larger to compare similar handle on puller).They are handy. Just can’t match up the similar handled silver puller with anything in the service tools manuals. Maybe for another Swedish made? Thinking it was for Husky as the PO gave me a box of stuff that included the OEM case splitter, crank setters, buffer wrenches, worm extractors and that similar T-handled puller (?). Said it was all for Husky. Dunno.

 

[EngineNoO9]

Anyone know of chain options for a 23” poulan bar on a 3700? Oregon page says 72LPX081G. I was hoping to find a full skip or semi skip as I think that’s just too much for it. I have a chain but haven’t counted links but it’s full comp as well.

I started cleaning and repairing the 3700 that got run over. Had this bar sitting on the shelf so figured I’d use it. Can probably sharpen the chain but want a new one as well.

 

[hotshot]

Just can’t match up the similar handled silver puller with anything in the service tools manuals. Maybe for another Swedish made? Thinking it was for Husky as the PO gave me a box of stuff that included the OEM case splitter, crank setters, buffer wrenches, worm extractors and that similar T-handled puller (?). Said it was all for Husky. Dunno.

Good morning Corey.

No clue either on that silver T handled puller, the internal thread pitch looks shallow, for like an early Jonsered.

Maybe it’s homemade?, with no numbers or letters stamped on it.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

The large & small T handles, also called U wrenches, are likely part numbers “502506602 U spanner” and 502506701. I was thinking that there’s also a third size.

Jack’s small engine has some saw application info for them, if you enter the tool part number.

One of them does work on Poulan 3400 & 4200/5200 series saw isolators, but you really have to work closely to engage the tips into the inner isolator’s washer tab slots.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...acturer/husqvarna/tools/service-tools-1985-01

Here is the list of 3 I have saved in a thread with mm size.
Some of what huskys they fit. I use them on the poulans alot.


AV rubber damper
removal tool, 11 mm
For models: 61, 268, 272
Part. No. 502 50 67-01

AV rubber damper
removal tool, 14 mm
For models: 136, 141, 42,
242, 246, 61, 268, 272, 250R
Part. No. 502 51 00-02

AV rubber damper
removal tool, 18 mm
For models: 61, 268, 272,
288, 394, 3120
Part. No. 502 50 66-02

 

[Todd Loosli]

As long as we are talking about tools i had to rework my saw test stand because it just couldn't get the oil up out of the tank and was starving the pump. So I looked it over and decided that if I ran the tank upright I could get the pump lower than the bottom of the tank. A little cutting and welding and now it seems to work very well even with a big saw that can move some oil fast. I'm thinking that after 4 times of rework it just might be the best.

 

[Todd Loosli]

What it was like

 

[redunshee]

As long as we are talking about tools i had to rework my saw test stand because it just couldn't get the oil up out of the tank and was starving the pump. So I looked it over and decided that if I ran the tank upright I could get the pump lower than the bottom of the tank. A little cutting and welding and now it seems to work very well even with a big saw that can move some oil fast. I'm thinking that after 4 times of rework it just might be the best. View attachment 954417View attachment 954418View attachment 954419

Looks like a "mad scientist" at work! What does it do? Dyno?

 

[hotshot]

From 2 years ago...

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/niks-poulan-thread.98495/post-7150725

 

[Todd Loosli]

Looks like a "mad scientist" at work! What does it do? Dyno?

Not so much as a dino but more as a test stand to run a saw without having to cut rounds and use all my wood.
It has a hydraulic pump and I can load the engine like I was cutting wood.. also it's warmer in the shop than outside.

 

[ijpom]

So I'm rebuilding a Poulan Pro 295. It's created a whole industry of problems, that were not foreseen initially.
I've been obtaining tools, extra parts and just keeping it in perspective:
It ain't my job; no lives were lost; I have other working saws; it may never be complete.

I most recently got a puller for the oiler gear that was blocking the bearing and seal from being replaced on the clutch shaft.
Works great, and even helped to re-install the gear straight on the shaft. Old to new looks like this:



Great!

The new piston and ring gets installed gently up to the bearings. Then I notice that the bearing/seal is oversized for the new cylinder and clamshell cap I have.



This is old vs new cap.



I go back to IPL and see that there is two versions of bearing, and two versions of cylinder to fit them. I have the updated bearing and seal from my dead saw, the new cylinder is the old style seal. They are available:



I look at the IPL harder.
It says the old style (type 1 and 2) cylinder will be a 530-014943, described as "C'case & Cylinder Assy". It takes 530-019170 seal.
My new crank case appears to be this design but clearly says 530-012370, and is not the old or new part number listed.



Google searching the cylinder number gets me very few hits, but one indicates it as an obsolete 46cc cylinder (all seems true).

Here is a question.
Anyone know what's going on here? Know what I've got? Seen or worked on these particular saws, and better yet both seal designs?

I could easily get the correct seals, but I'd need to be sure my new bearing, or a different bearing is the right fit.

Also, I'm going to spend more time going over the other things in my head, like:
Are the crank, or other parts I wish to retain, listed as identical between models?

 

[EngineNoO9]

Anyone know of chain options for a 23” poulan bar on a 3700? Oregon page says 72LPX081G. I was hoping to find a full skip or semi skip as I think that’s just too much for it. I have a chain but haven’t counted links but it’s full comp as well.

I started cleaning and repairing the 3700 that got run over. Had this bar sitting on the shelf so figured I’d use it. Can probably sharpen the chain but want a new one as well.

so actually the bar is a 20” hard nose. I counted the links and it’s 72. I know my previous 20” chains for my Oregon advance cut bar is too short to fit and are 70 links. I’m a little puzzled as to how it’s longer and Oregon’s website shows all 70 links for it. I’ll buy a 72 link lgx chain or something. The one on there had weird bumpers and I can’t use my progressive raker file on it.

It’s back together and I had to adjust the tune some (it’s why I set it aside the day it got ran over). I’ll need to find some wood to cut to fine tune it.

 

[EngineNoO9]

The snow storm that hit us on Monday dropped a ton of trees. Luckily very little at my property but my brother in laws and in-laws there’s a bunch. Timed well with getting a grapple for the tractor. Time to sharpen chains and get to clean up.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

So I'm rebuilding a Poulan Pro 295. It's created a whole industry of problems, that were not foreseen initially.
I've been obtaining tools, extra parts and just keeping it in perspective:
It ain't my job; no lives were lost; I have other working saws; it may never be complete.

I most recently got a puller for the oiler gear that was blocking the bearing and seal from being replaced on the clutch shaft.
Works great, and even helped to re-install the gear straight on the shaft. Old to new looks like this:


View attachment 954617View attachment 954604View attachment 954605
Great!

The new piston and ring gets installed gently up to the bearings. Then I notice that the bearing/seal is oversized for the new cylinder and clamshell cap I have.

View attachment 954606 View attachment 954607

This is old vs new cap.

View attachment 954608

I go back to IPL and see that there is two versions of bearing, and two versions of cylinder to fit them. I have the updated bearing and seal from my dead saw, the new cylinder is the old style seal. They are available:

View attachment 954609View attachment 954610

I look at the IPL harder.
It says the old style (type 1 and 2) cylinder will be a 530-014943, described as "C'case & Cylinder Assy". It takes 530-019170 seal.
My new crank case appears to be this design but clearly says 530-012370, and is not the old or new part number listed.

View attachment 954611

Google searching the cylinder number gets me very few hits, but one indicates it as an obsolete 46cc cylinder (all seems true).

Here is a question.
Anyone know what's going on here? Know what I've got? Seen or worked on these particular saws, and better yet both seal designs?

I could easily get the correct seals, but I'd need to be sure my new bearing, or a different bearing is the right fit.

Also, I'm going to spend more time going over the other things in my head, like:
Are the crank, or other parts I wish to retain, listed as identical between models?

Roger @3000 FPS is only person I know has been deep in these.

Just watching and learning as you go too. GL

 

[ijpom]

Roger @3000 FPS is only person I know has been deep in these.

Just watching and learning as you go too. GL

Went through the major components that I expect to reuse: crank, muffler, intake side and frame (plastic housing) and found only minor differences in the carb and intake train of components.
Gave me enough confidence to pull trigger on the correct seals, and figure it will eventually come together.

Seems that the part numbers listed in IPL are assembly (cylinder plus cap) and neither component numbers listed on the casting is related to those. This is my best guess so far, but since this PoulanPro is really a Husqvarna (sharing parts with a whole raft of old 46cc models) I'm surprised that none of these oem numbers show up in a Google search.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Went through the major components that I expect to reuse: crank, muffler, intake side and frame (plastic housing) and found only minor differences in the carb and intake train of components.
Gave me enough confidence to pull trigger on the correct seals, and figure it will eventually come together.

Seems that the part numbers listed in IPL are assembly (cylinder plus cap) and neither component numbers listed on the casting is related to those. This is my best guess so far, but since this PoulanPro is really a Hasqvarna (sharing parts with a whole raft of old 46cc models) I'm surprised that none of these oem numbers show up in a Google search.

I'm clueless on the plastic poulans. But if you look at 295 early there is type 1 2 3 4 listed. This IPL was under 1 https://www.ereplacementparts.com/poulan-pp295-type-gas-chainsaw-parts-c-16962_17147_473464.html

 

[datman]

So I'm rebuilding a Poulan Pro 295. It's created a whole industry of problems, that were not foreseen initially.
I've been obtaining tools, extra parts and just keeping it in perspective:
It ain't my job; no lives were lost; I have other working saws; it may never be complete.

I most recently got a puller for the oiler gear that was blocking the bearing and seal from being replaced on the clutch shaft.
Works great, and even helped to re-install the gear straight on the shaft. Old to new looks like this:


View attachment 954617View attachment 954604View attachment 954605
Great!

The new piston and ring gets installed gently up to the bearings. Then I notice that the bearing/seal is oversized for the new cylinder and clamshell cap I have.

View attachment 954606 View attachment 954607

This is old vs new cap.

View attachment 954608

I go back to IPL and see that there is two versions of bearing, and two versions of cylinder to fit them. I have the updated bearing and seal from my dead saw, the new cylinder is the old style seal. They are available:

View attachment 954609View attachment 954610

I look at the IPL harder.
It says the old style (type 1 and 2) cylinder will be a 530-014943, described as "C'case & Cylinder Assy". It takes 530-019170 seal.
My new crank case appears to be this design but clearly says 530-012370, and is not the old or new part number listed.

View attachment 954611

Google searching the cylinder number gets me very few hits, but one indicates it as an obsolete 46cc cylinder (all seems true).

Here is a question.
Anyone know what's going on here? Know what I've got? Seen or worked on these particular saws, and better yet both seal designs?

I could easily get the correct seals, but I'd need to be sure my new bearing, or a different bearing is the right fit.

Also, I'm going to spend more time going over the other things in my head, like:
Are the crank, or other parts I wish to retain, listed as identical between models?

Is it the same as the Poulan 2900 cylinder?

 

[ijpom]

Is it the same as the Poulan 2900 cylinder?

Yes. Appears to be identical to Poulan 2900.
Just watched this DonyBoy video and this one has the same bearing seals described in IPL as type 1 or 2.

 

[Patrick1903]

Patrick , the sprocket nose teeth have been worn down flat . They normally have rounded teeth and are about twice as long .

So I finally got a new Oregon bar/chain combo for my 4218avx. Turn out the new bar had same nose sprocket as the current bar that we thought was worn out. Take a look. I put the new bar on with old chain (drive links seemed really similar shape wise as the new chain), and tensioned up to same tension I had when I had old bar on, and the chain pulled through by hand the same on both bars. I’m beginning to think the quick stopping of the chain when releasing throttle is normal. A couple YouTube vids on the saw seem to show that. I’m just not used to it.

 

[3000 FPS]

Went through the major components that I expect to reuse: crank, muffler, intake side and frame (plastic housing) and found only minor differences in the carb and intake train of components.
Gave me enough confidence to pull trigger on the correct seals, and figure it will eventually come together.

Seems that the part numbers listed in IPL are assembly (cylinder plus cap) and neither component numbers listed on the casting is related to those. This is my best guess so far, but since this PoulanPro is really a Husqvarna (sharing parts with a whole raft of old 46cc models) I'm surprised that none of these oem numbers show up in a Google search.

It sounds like you have it figured out. There should be a manufactures tag on the tank/ handle area telling you if it is type 1 or 2 etc. Yes, Redneckchainsaw repair is correct I have 3 of these saws and a couple of them I have done some extensive work. These early 295's are good saws and are worth the time and money in my experience to get running. I used one last year up in the mountains cutting up some lodge pole pine.

 

[bob kern]

It sounds like you have it figured out. There should be a manufactures tag on the tank/ handle area telling you if it is type 1 or 2 etc. Yes, Redneckchainsaw repair is correct I have 3 of these saws and a couple of them I have done some extensive work. These early 295's are good saws and are worth the time and money in my experience to get running. I used one last year up in the mountains cutting up some lodge pole pine.

Now you guys have me wandering if I don’t have one of them in my shed. Not familiar with them but I think I kept it because it looked like more of a saw than the “wild things”