Nik's Poulan Thread

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Was given this yestday..
had to wipe the side off to see what it was.
he said it ran fine last time he used it. had no more use for it after his house burned down and he stopped heating with wood..
runs with fuel down the carb and will pull from the tank but not well.
needs of course carb kit and all new lines..
after cleaning i may be able to tell where the impulse line goes,,looks like THAT may be a job ??
now to find an IPL :)

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Was given this yestday..
had to wipe the side off to see what it was.
he said it ran fine last time he used it. had no more use for it after his house burned down and he stopped heating with wood..
runs with fuel down the carb and will pull from the tank but not well.
needs of course carb kit and all new lines..
after cleaning i may be able to tell where the impulse line goes,,looks like THAT may be a job ??
now to find an IPL :)

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If its similar to the 3000(PP305) and 3300(which it should be), the impulse line goes from bottom of cylinder(which I'm sure you knew) through the same hole the kill wires fit through at the front of handle/tank assmbly . It connects to the top of the carb. I have a lot of extra parts if you need any.
Bob
 
Poulan pro 655 carburetor problems!!!

I have a poulan pro 655 that never ran right! Im not the original owner but knew him well. He always had problems with the carb from day one. He had rebuilt the carb a few times. I had just cleaned it and still no good and then rebuilt it and still no good. It runs fine sometimes and then sometimes it sounds like its running out of gas and if I start chopping the throttle I can keep it running. In less anyone knows what the problem is I would like to change the carb on it. I would really like to get a good after market carb or should I just get the stock one. Other than that the saw is almost new. Please help
Thanks
Chris
 
If its similar to the 3000(PP305) and 3300(which it should be), the impulse line goes from bottom of cylinder(which I'm sure you knew) through the same hole the kill wires fit through at the front of handle/tank assmbly . It connects to the top of the carb. I have a lot of extra parts if you need any.
Bob

Tnx Bob...
still havent had a chance to look at it.
is there a nipple on the bottom of the jug ?? cant find a good ipl for it but i can see a hose and a clamp at the end of the line but can see nothing on the jug ..
thats from ipl's for saws that should be close.
can see where it connects to carb.
ALL the lines are just SO brittle and hard i know they wont last..probly break trying to get them off to rebuild the carb..
 
Tnx Bob...
still havent had a chance to look at it.
is there a nipple on the bottom of the jug ?? cant find a good ipl for it but i can see a hose and a clamp at the end of the line but can see nothing on the jug ..
thats from ipl's for saws that should be close.
can see where it connects to carb.
ALL the lines are just SO brittle and hard i know they wont last..probly break trying to get them off to rebuild the carb..

DO NOT use fuel line for the impulse hose, it will last about 2 hours. Stihl makes a line that you buy in 3 foot sections, black in color and is a lot tougher than tygon fuel line.
 
If its similar to the 3000(PP305) and 3300(which it should be), the impulse line goes from bottom of cylinder(which I'm sure you knew) through the same hole the kill wires fit through at the front of handle/tank assmbly . It connects to the top of the carb. I have a lot of extra parts if you need any.
Bob

You know, seeing as how all parts are similar with exception of P &C I can email you a 3000 or 3300 IPL. Also have a hard copy of the Svc. Manual as well, but not sure its in a PDF format.
Bob
 
Was given this yestday..
had to wipe the side off to see what it was.
he said it ran fine last time he used it. had no more use for it after his house burned down and he stopped heating with wood..
runs with fuel down the carb and will pull from the tank but not well.
needs of course carb kit and all new lines..
after cleaning i may be able to tell where the impulse line goes,,looks like THAT may be a job ??
now to find an IPL :)

Go check your emil Ron, you never know what you might find there. :msp_biggrin:
 
I have a poulan pro 655 that never ran right! Im not the original owner but knew him well. He always had problems with the carb from day one. He had rebuilt the carb a few times. I had just cleaned it and still no good and then rebuilt it and still no good. It runs fine sometimes and then sometimes it sounds like its running out of gas and if I start chopping the throttle I can keep it running. In less anyone knows what the problem is I would like to change the carb on it. I would really like to get a good after market carb or should I just get the stock one. Other than that the saw is almost new. Please help
Thanks
Chris

I think you should just give up on it and send it to me. :msp_laugh:

Seriously, does it have a Walbro WJ carb on it? I have some experiance with that carb but not alot. Since that saw is Pioneer based, you may want to post your questions in the Pioneer thread, theres some sharp guys there with lots of experiance with those saws.

My first thoughts are that its not carb problems anyway since it dont do it all the time.
 
I think you should just give up on it and send it to me. :msp_laugh:

Seriously, does it have a Walbro WJ carb on it? I have some experiance with that carb but not alot. Since that saw is Pioneer based, you may want to post your questions in the Pioneer thread, theres some sharp guys there with lots of experiance with those saws.

My first thoughts are that its not carb problems anyway since it dont do it all the time.

Could it be related to the reed valve?
 
My 655 would run lean and idle poorly when I first got it. Didn't take me long to realize it didn't have the proper carby. A member here sent me a good rebuilder and the saw has been running excellent ever since.

Chris B.
 
306A teardown

I finally took the time to tear my 306A down tonight and got a look at what I'm in for. Just as I figured, cylinder is toast :cry:.
Chrome plating gone on exhaust port side, still slick on the opposite side. Piston fried. That thing took some heat by the looks of the discolored paint on the lower part of the jug. Anyone have a good P&C for a 306A??? :msp_blink:

chainsaws052Large.jpg


chainsaws057Large.jpg
 
Tnx Bob...
still havent had a chance to look at it.
is there a nipple on the bottom of the jug ?? cant find a good ipl for it but i can see a hose and a clamp at the end of the line but can see nothing on the jug ..
thats from ipl's for saws that should be close.
can see where it connects to carb.
ALL the lines are just SO brittle and hard i know they wont last..probly break trying to get them off to rebuild the carb..

Nice score there Ron! Those saws aent bad to work on. Here is a pic of my 2.8 that I rebuilt last year. That pulse barb is below the intake port. Id also suggest replacing the boot while you have it apart. Mine was split when I got it, but the saw did start off a prime!
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&amp;current=saws520.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws520.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
I finally took the time to tear my 306A down tonight and got a look at what I'm in for. Just as I figured, cylinder is toast :cry:.
Chrome plating gone on exhaust port side, still slick on the opposite side. Piston fried. That thing took some heat by the looks of the discolored paint on the lower part of the jug. Anyone have a good P&C for a 306A??? :msp_blink:

chainsaws052Large.jpg


chainsaws057Large.jpg

May be its the pics but the piston doesn't look too bad!
 
May be its the pics but the piston doesn't look too bad!

I was thinking the same thing, Cyliner either, imo. I think that one may hold compression with just a little polishing or a touch-up honing. For comparison, here is the last piston I pulled.... I found the bearing lodged in a port and it fit like a puzzle piece. The picture doesn't show the complete distruction of the rings where the bearing tore through.
heroze-albums759-173299.jpg
 
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May be its the pics but the piston doesn't look too bad!

I was thinking the same thing, Cyliner either, imo. I think that one may hold compression with just a little polishing or a touch-up honing. The picture doesn't show the complete distruction

You're both right :clap:. The top pic is the exhaust side of the P&C. All of the chrome plating is gouged out of the bore and the piston is galled. The bottom pic is the opposite side of both P&C, with somewhat normal wear. You can see the heat it took by looking at the paint on the jug, below the exhaust port.
FWIW, I've seen more 306s with toasted top ends with the paint baked on the cylinder like that since I been looking for a top end. That's a tell tale sign of a crispy engine.
This saw did crank and run with fuel dribbled into the carb, but had a carb leak so I didn't fool with it much. It had 90-100psi.
 
I think you should just give up on it and send it to me. :msp_laugh:

Seriously, does it have a Walbro WJ carb on it? I have some experiance with that carb but not alot. Since that saw is Pioneer based, you may want to post your questions in the Pioneer thread, theres some sharp guys there with lots of experiance with those saws.

My first thoughts are that its not carb problems anyway since it dont do it all the time.

Im not sure on the carb. If its still light out when I get home ill shoot a video of it.
 
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