Nik's Poulan Thread

[briantutt]

Run out is basically a check on how true one feature's axis on a shaft lines up with another feature's axis on the same shaft. So I think what he is saying is that since the crank is held by the bearings as in theory a fixed reference the shaft is then not spinning on the same axis at the seal. I gather hes is suggesting the bearings are bad causing an exaggerated misalignment at the seal.

But I could be WAY off having never taken a saw this far apart yet.

 

[cjcocn]

Yeah me too. Rough bearings still won't matter on a pressure test after new seals are installed and before the saw has even been started.

Radial and axial runout .... in other words, your bearings may seem good, but if measured with a dial gauge they may actually be too loose and thus will fail within a short period of time. I am not sure if there is a standard tolerance for runout - someone with more knowledge than my little brain holds will have to answer that.

The stethoscope is used to listen for bearing roughness that may not be noticeable to the unaided human ear. The concept is similar to listening for problems in an automobile engine.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Radial and axial runout .... in other words, your bearings may seem good, but if measured with a dial gauge they may actually be too loose and thus will fail within a short period of time. I am not sure if there is a standard tolerance for runout - someone with more knowledge than my little brain holds will have to answer that.

The stethoscope is used to listen for bearing roughness that may not be noticeable to the unaided human ear. The concept is similar to listening for problems in an automobile engine.

Yeah I know that, but it don't matter to Bob at this point. Say the brgs are a little bad, but he's dealing with a air leak on a saw that had not been started yet after the new seals have been put in.

Good or bad brgs don't come into play yet.

 

[cjcocn]

Yeah I know that, but it don't matter to Bob at this point. Say the brgs are a little bad, but he's dealing with a air leak on a saw that had not been started yet after the new seals have been put in.

Good or bad brgs don't come into play yet.

Okay, I re-read your post and see what you are saying. :blush:

Maybe my brain is smaller than I thought? :jester:

 

[PasoRoblesJimmy]

Radial and axial runout .... in other words, your bearings may seem good, but if measured with a dial gauge they may actually be too loose and thus will fail within a short period of time. I am not sure if there is a standard tolerance for runout - someone with more knowledge than my little brain holds will have to answer that.

The stethoscope is used to listen for bearing roughness that may not be noticeable to the unaided human ear. The concept is similar to listening for problems in an automobile engine.

Yup!
Radial runout (or crankshaft wobble) is like driving with an out-of-round wheel or tire. I don't know what the radial runout on a chainsaw should be. I suspect 5 thousands of an inch or more of radial runout (wobble) at the crank seal could be a sign of worn crank bearings. Too much runout (or wobble) could also exceed the sealing capability of the seal. The axial runout is likely nothing to worry abut.

Definition of Radial Runout:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-703.htm

Mechanics stethoscopes (which are cheap and easy to obtain) give a seat-of-the pants feel for the condition of bearing rollers, balls and races (such as roughness, pitting and brinelling). The sound of roughness detected while turning a bearing can be a sign of incipient bearing failure.

IMO, a combo of excessive radial runout and roughness points to worn bearings and/or risk of future bearing failure.

 

[joe25DA]

My newest addition

I saw this one on ebay with no bids and 2hrs left. put my bid in and now it sits on my bench. Its a Craftsman 2.1 14" powersharp. And it hasnt seen much wood. the guy sent it with a bar cover and 3 cans of oil from the late '70s I'd say. Also has the orig, barracuda chain. I put gas in it and....wouldnt start. The lines are 30 y.o., and I am def. the first person to take the air filter cover off. I checked the p&c lucked out again, this saw has the bridged ex. port and dual rings. The filter air disinegrated while i tried screw-driving it out. Its a little dirty but in great shape doesn't even have the leather glove wear on the handle. I got this cause its similar to my grandfathers saw, that I destroyed years ago.

<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws256.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws256.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws257.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws257.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[lawnmowertech37]

joe that is a nice saw i wonder if i can make something if i sell these saws i have on ebay

 

[briantutt]

I saw this one on ebay with no bids and 2hrs left. put my bid in and now it sits on my bench. Its a Craftsman 2.1 14" powersharp. And it hasnt seen much wood. the guy sent it with a bar cover and 3 cans of oil from the late '70s I'd say. Also has the orig, barracuda chain. I put gas in it and....wouldnt start. The lines are 30 y.o., and I am def. the first person to take the air filter cover off. I checked the p&c lucked out again, this saw has the bridged ex. port and dual rings. The filter air disinegrated while i tried screw-driving it out. Its a little dirty but in great shape doesn't even have the leather glove wear on the handle. I got this cause its similar to my grandfathers saw, that I destroyed years ago.

<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws256.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws256.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws257.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws257.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

That looks exactly like my Poulan S25DA painted red. Mine has a wicked bad air leak but holy :censored: does it wind up. Shakes your hand right off!

 

[redunshee]

Joe, does that power sharp work? Seem then frequently on the Craftsman(Poulan) 3.7 but they never seemed to work.
Bob

 

[joe25DA]

Joe, does that power sharp work? Seem then frequently on the Craftsman(Poulan) 3.7 but they never seemed to work.
Bob

This is my first PS saw, I haven't tried it yet, been told they don't work tho

 

[scootr]

Super 380

Just acquired this, nice saw. It is a pro design, well made. I read in another thread a discussion about piston diameter. Put my dial caliper across the top of the piston, convert says it is 49mm. This is my new "in the truck saw".

60cc @ 12.5lbs.

 

[redunshee]

Poulan Rim Sprocket Question

I have two 3/8 rim sprockets with convex backs, and clutches that have threaded extensions(see photos). The clutch plate is also convex. When installing them, the clutch doesn't fit all the way on the crankshaft, but is about 1/2 in. short of the crankshaft end. My spur sprockets fit all the way.
I've noticed this on the Craftsman brand. QUESTION: Is this a concern? Has anyone seen this situation ? I'm hesitant to run saw for fear of clutch flying off. There just doesn't seem to be enough thread to hold clutch. Thanks for your assistance.

 

[PasoRoblesJimmy]

I have two 3/8 rim sprockets with convex backs, and clutches that have threaded extensions(see photos). The clutch plate is also convex. When installing them, the clutch doesn't fit all the way on the crankshaft, but is about 1/2 in. short of the crankshaft end. My spur sprockets fit all the way.
I've noticed this on the Craftsman brand. QUESTION: Is this a concern? Has anyone seen this situation ? I'm hesitant to run saw for fear of clutch flying off. There just doesn't seem to be enough thread to hold clutch. Thanks for your assistance.

Check the configuration of the clutch in the IPB. My son was complaining about the clutch slipping on my Sears Craftsman/Poulan Model 358.356242. When replacing a worn sprocket and worn clutch drum bearing on this saw, I noticed that the clutch washer was missing from the clutch drum. No more clutch slippage after replacement of the worn spur sprocket, worn clutch drum bearing, and the missing clutch washer.

The owners manual and IPB for my Craftsman were lost in the shuffle. Copies of both were found at the Sears.com, PartsDirect website.

 

[redunshee]

Got all the parts. Seems my saw is Model 358.356100(3.7 with 18 in.bar).
Has rim sprocket assembly. Still am uneasy that clutch doesn't fully tighten all the way to end of crank threads like a spur sprocket does. Half inch of unused threads seems like alot to me. May have to breakdown and get a couple spur sprockets though the rim sprokets are almost new.
Bob

 

[joe25DA]

one handed!?

Yesterday I had some small stuff to cut at a job. Took me longer to figure out which saw to take. I took my 4000. While loading it in the truck i notice the safety tag on the hand guard. Along with the kickback warnings it says do not use saw 1 handed. Now i consider myself a strong guy. I tried picking this thing up one handed (the rear handle) and no way it was gonna happen. I have fractured my right wrist twice and then messed it up again in a hand truck incedent (delivering miller lite going down the ramp on a truck). Any He-man here who can do it? I mean hold it level. I have the 16'" bar on mine.
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws109.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws109.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[Modifiedmark]

Yesterday I had some small stuff to cut at a job. Took me longer to figure out which saw to take. I took my 4000. While loading it in the truck i notice the safety tag on the hand guard. Along with the kickback warnings it says do not use saw 1 handed. Now i consider myself a strong guy. I tried picking this thing up one handed (the rear handle) and no way it was gonna happen. I have fractured my right wrist twice and then messed it up again in a hand truck incedent (delivering miller lite going down the ramp on a truck). Any He-man here who can do it? I mean hold it level. I have the 16'" bar on mine.
<a href="http://s729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/?action=view&current=saws109.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww294/joe25da/saws109.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Joe I can do it. (you didn't say for how long)

 

[PES+]

???????

Blue?

Metalflake even...............

Better than the green I reckon:greenchainsaw:

 

[WalterWhite]

... Along with the kickback warnings it says do not use saw 1 handed. ...

I'm curious about this whole one handed thing. (Keep in mind I'm a rank back yard amateur, so that's where this line of questioning comes from.) I've read that I should always keep two hands on a saw and if I ever needed to hold it with one hand, it should be by the forward handle to avoid the possibility that I could squeeze the trigger if the saw started to get away from me. That makes sense. I believe that two hands (including keeping the arm straight elbow locked to the forward handle) reduces the chance that the saw could flip back towards me if the tip catches and it kicks.

And then I hear about climbing saws and top handle models that balance when held one handed. I wonder how the users of those manage to avoid the risks that seem inherent in one handed use. Does it boil down to the level of skill? Is it likely that reaching out with one hand, a kicking saw will not smack you in the face. (smack is probably not the right word...)

Inquiring minds...

-walt

 

[redunshee]

I'm curious about this whole one handed thing. (Keep in mind I'm a rank back yard amateur, so that's where this line of questioning comes from.) I've read that I should always keep two hands on a saw and if I ever needed to hold it with one hand, it should be by the forward handle to avoid the possibility that I could squeeze the trigger if the saw started to get away from me. That makes sense. I believe that two hands (including keeping the arm straight elbow locked to the forward handle) reduces the chance that the saw could flip back towards me if the tip catches and it kicks.

And then I hear about climbing saws and top handle models that balance when held one handed. I wonder how the users of those manage to avoid the risks that seem inherent in one handed use. Does it boil down to the level of skill? Is it likely that reaching out with one hand, a kicking saw will not smack you in the face. (smack is probably not the right word...)

Inquiring minds...

-walt

I've got small cc saws and large saws. Would never ever try to hold and cut with one hand. I don't even reach where my arms are extended. Saws are generally safe if you have think every second and be on your guard. One mental mistake and I shut the saw off and go in.

 

[PasoRoblesJimmy]

I've got small cc saws and large saws. Would never ever try to hold and cut with one hand. I don't even reach where my arms are extended. Saws are generally safe if you have think every second and be on your guard. One mental mistake and I shut the saw off and go in.

Power tools of any kind (saws, drills, routers, etc.) can reach out and bite back if the operator isn't paying 100% attention to what he is doing. Ask any paramedic!!!!