Nik's Poulan Thread

[cbfarmall]

Chris,

We have a REAL good friend that can help you out with that saw.
And he MIGHT know a way to get that handlebar looking like new.
I'm not positive about that but it is a possibility.


Mike

If anybody can do it, it'll be Mark.

In addition to this 54, I also became the owner of a 245SA I've had for 2 years. Fellow from work asked me to get it running late 2008. Piston scored, but not terrible. Put new rings in, wouldn't idle worth a darn. Fast forward to April 2011, and I finally decide enough is enough and took it over to Mark's and he and I (well, mostly Mark) went thru it, pressure-tested, changed both seals, cleaned it up. Mark has it running pretty sweet. Called the guy the other night, told him the saw was done. He said to keep it. I felt bad about having it so long and was more than happy to offer to buy it, but he declined. (I was going to try to buy it off him anyway, but he beat me to the punch.:msp_thumbup

Chris B.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I can't answer that question but I can tell you how to repair the one you have if it is still all in one piece. 45 years ago we used to race home built slot cars. We found that they would go a lot faster if we could coat the sponge rubber tires with silicone. We clamped the axels to a clock motor and rotated them through a solution of G.E. clear Silicone and solvent. Let them run in that bath until the desired thickness was built up. You can do the same thing to seal up a weathered carb boot as a last resort.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Stephen, come on now, plain ole GE clear silicone?

Did you ever see what gas does to silicone?

Please do me this, make up a couple balls of silicone and let them cure.

Now take the cured silicone and put them in cup of gas for a little while then come back and tell me what happened to the silcone. :msp_ohmy:

When you do please tell me if you still want to repair a rubber boot that has gasoline running through it with plain ole silicone.

Not trying to bust your chops, just saying......

 

[Modifiedmark]

If anybody can do it, it'll be Mark.

In addition to this 54, I also became the owner of a 245SA I've had for 2 years. Fellow from work asked me to get it running late 2008. Piston scored, but not terrible. Put new rings in, wouldn't idle worth a darn. Fast forward to April 2011, and I finally decide enough is enough and took it over to Mark's and he and I (well, mostly Mark) went thru it, pressure-tested, changed both seals, cleaned it up. Mark has it running pretty sweet. Called the guy the other night, told him the saw was done. He said to keep it. I felt bad about having it so long and was more than happy to offer to buy it, but he declined. (I was going to try to buy it off him anyway, but he beat me to the punch.:msp_thumbup

Chris B.

I figured you would end up with it!

Its not a bad one either. I finally got to download this from my camera today.

Call me tonight or tomorrow and I'll give you a place or two to try for some parts for the 54. I think that saw could have come with 1/2 or .404 chain so there might be some .404 sprockets around for it.

Thats a neat looking bow setup, and you know thats not a gear drive right? Its a roller chain reduction setup on it.

Honestly I'm not that smart on these sand cast saws, you might send a like to this to Thomas as he is the expert on them.

He might even have some parts around.

 

[redunshee]

No Bob, the engines are entirely different and parts won't interchange.
Don't feel too bad about the 4018 though.
With just a little work they are a VERY respectable saw.
As I've said before I'd MUCH rather run one than an 025.

I believe they can be made to run really close to the 2375 and intend to find out if I ever get a little more spare time and money.
I have a few spare parts for that model if you need anything.
The only hints I can give you for the disassembly;

1) The bolts that hold the engine to the case are also the bolts that hold the engine halves together so it may come all to pieces when you remove them and start to take the engine out of the chassis.

2) When you separate the engine halves hold the engine with the cylinder down toward the floor. There are two plastic transfer covers in there that will be free when you remove the main cap and crank assy and they WILL fall out onto the floor if the cylinder is pointed up. Take note of which side they are on. Some say it matters others say it doesn't. If you have any questions I will be happy to tell you what little I know.


Mike

Thanks Mike, I'll keep you in mind. If I need another P&C I guess I'll have to be specific about the model #. I see them for sale occassionally but they never differentiate between the two models.
Bob

 

[cbfarmall]

I figured you would end up with it!

Its not a bad one either. I finally got to download this from my camera today.

Call me tonight or tomorrow and I'll give you a place or two to try for some parts for the 54. I think that saw could have come with 1/2 or .404 chain so there might be some .404 sprockets around for it.

Thats a neat looking bow setup, and you know thats not a gear drive right? Its a roller chain reduction setup on it.

Honestly I'm not that smart on these sand cast saws, you might send a like to this to Thomas as he is the expert on them.

He might even have some parts around.

Right, I realize its a roller-chain. I just use the phrase gear-drive to distinguish it from direct drives. Same with the belt-drive Homies. It's Greek to most people either way.

I'm going to tear that 54 most of the way apart. Looks to have over 1/8" of ring gap and the reason I know that without tearing the saw apart is the ring ends are both in the exhaust port. I want to fix it before I wreck the engine. Should have some Mac rings I can size down to fit. Plus, this saw is so filthy I'd had to run it without cleaning it.

Chris B.

 

[thomas72]

From the pictures the chain looks good enough to use and will last a long long time if you take care of it. That is the desirable bow set up for the saw as well. Mark is right on the chain reduction. A lot of those covers get mixed around on those saws, and one way to verify is by matching the serial number from the top of the reduction drive to the one on the i.d. plate. Have you worked on the carburetors on those sand cast saws before? Because it is easier to replace the top end than it is to repair the carb. After you work on enough of them it is not so bad though. While you have the carb out might as well replace the oil pickup line. I have some parts for those saws so let me know what you are after.

 

[cbfarmall]

I did fool with a 44 or 42 years ago, can't remember which . Cussed the whole time I pulled the carby. My skillz have improved since then.

Other than needing a handlebar, the choke and stop buttons are missing and the oil cap has a broken wing. Little stuff. I have to tear it apart to to really know what else is wrong. Fortunately, the engine turns over with good compression and sounds tight.

Chris B.

 

[Mastermind]

I know this ain't the swap meet thread, but with all ya'll Poulan heads here in one spot I reckon I'll let this fly right here.

I would love to find a decent bow bar setup for my 3400. The saw is ready for it already, including a factory chain catcher.

That's another sweet saw you found there Chris.

 

[thomas72]

Take a good look at the piston. You can put them in backwards of course, but usually does not hurt anything as you have bridge ports. Also, look to see if the piston still has the ring retainer in it. Some of the older pistons would loose the retainer and the rings would just spin around the piston. Looks like a fun project.

 

[jimdad07]

Frankensaw lives. I got her running tonight. Still have to finish putting it back together and I have to fix a spot in the fuel tank. The muffler is modded now also. Like I said, still have quite a bit to finish on it.

 

[67L36Driver]

On the Walmart Poulan Wildish things, whats the deal with the pipe elbow on the clutch side of the muffler for a modification?:msp_unsure:

Why not just clobber a large hole in that bottom dimple front and center? Along with drilling the poopoo out of the baffel so you can keep the spark arrestor.

 

[Modifiedmark]

No I have never messed with silicone and gas. We never soaked out slot car tires in gas. We used lighter fluid for a solvent. I should have mentioned that I would only install it on the outside surfaces of the boot. I think it would work but there are probably better materials out there, such as the stuff they use to reline gas tanks, but I don't have access to those other materials and I don't know what they do to rubber. Silicone likes rubber. If it is applied to the outside of the boot it should not see much gasoline since the boot operates under a partial vacuum and the outside surface is esentially dry for the most part. The silicone would just be drawn into the weather checking and cracks, preventing air from entering. Like I said it a last resort effort to fix something that is otherwise unobtainable.

Hey just thinking out loud...:msp_mellow:

It was obvious that you never messed with the silicone and gas or I know you would not have went there with that suggestion.

Go try what I told you to see if you want it to see any gasoline at all.

That stuff to line gas tanks with, is it flexable? That carb boot has to be and that stuff you talk about would peel right off, that is if you could get it stuck on to it to begin with.

That was another thinking out loud thing again wasnt it?

I know your trying to help but think about it man!

 

[Modifiedmark]

Have you worked on the carburetors on those sand cast saws before? Because it is easier to replace the top end than it is to repair the carb.

I thought the same thing when I first got my 71-A but after I learned the procedure, it wasnt all that bad.

That 54 maybe a little different though? Air vane governor on it correct?

Good of you to offer to help Chris out, he's a good fella.

 

[Modifiedmark]

On the Walmart Poulan Wildish things, whats the deal with the pipe elbow on the clutch side of the muffler for a modification?:msp_unsure:

Why not just clobber a large hole in that bottom dimple front and center? Along with drilling the poopoo out of the baffel so you can keep the spark arrestor.

Yes Carl, I have done that on some quickie mods for others and it works fine.

Myself, I don't care for the exhaust blowing right on the log and blowing crap all up and around.

 

[joe25DA]

Looks like I got lucky with this saw any way Mark. The boot is in very good shape, no cracks or leaks. Hopefully the next one is as good. I cleaned most of the saw tonight. What a mess! I know the PO never cleaned it, but I think he used this saw to cut asphalt! This crud is caked on and stuck like glue. Ammonia, hot water and elbow grease removed most of it.

 

[rms61moparman]

On the Walmart Poulan Wildish things, whats the deal with the pipe elbow on the clutch side of the muffler for a modification?:msp_unsure:

Why not just clobber a large hole in that bottom dimple front and center? Along with drilling the poopoo out of the baffel so you can keep the spark arrestor.

Did you ever do much bucking with a hole like that in the front a Poulan muffler?
I am going to assume you are talking about the ModifiedMark mufflers on the 3400s? (Wal-Mart has NEVER sold a saw designed and built that well, and neither have a LOT of Stihl dealers! And yes, if you detect a note of offense in my tone you would be correct)
The other reason is because the 4200/5200 series of saws came from the factory with a muffler that had an exit very much like that and Mark has the talents and abilities necessary to duplicate it for the 3400/3700/4000 series.


Mike

 

[67L36Driver]

Yes Carl, I have done that on some quickie mods for others and it works fine.

Myself, I don't care for the exhaust blowing right on the log and blowing crap all up and around.

That's what I figured.

I have a couple extra mufflers and I'll give it a try. Drill a big hole and later add a 45* el pointed up or right.

 

[67L36Driver]

rms61moparman:

Hey dude, we got no three thousand or fourthousand model Poulans in our signature now do we?

Assume = Arse of U and Me

 

[rms61moparman]

rms61moparman:

Hey dude, we got no three thousand or fourthousand model Poulans in our signature now do we?

Assume = Arse of U and Me

Yes as a matter of fact 1/2 of "we" have SEVERAL!!!LOL

If that mod has been featured on a "Wal-Mart" Poulan, I must have missed it!


Mike

 

[hunter h]

On the Walmart Poulan Wildish things, whats the deal with the pipe elbow on the clutch side of the muffler for a modification?:msp_unsure:

Why not just clobber a large hole in that bottom dimple front and center? Along with drilling the poopoo out of the baffel so you can keep the spark arrestor.

My answer would be that the reason for a muffler mod is to improve flow giving more power. If your cutting and have the saw against the log then the front of the saw is blocked off. If you pipe it to the side you will get better flow. Also as Mark said it will not blow saw dust back as much. If the exhaust is straight out the front it is blowing straight on what your cutting. Just my opinion I like the looks of the ones on the side also.
hunter h