Nik's Poulan Thread

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Picked up a couple nice NOS 16" roller nosed bars!

They were listed on Ebay as a Mac bar but they sure looked like the original Poulan bars. The seller has some more if anyone wants any. For a $20 BIN there not too bad.

Well I'm not sure there NOS Poulan or not but they will fit just like them! I think I will fit a 306 or something with them.

Here they are with a original Poulan branded 16" roller bar.

Nice score Mark. The Poulan branded bar is the bottom one (with the 'fatter' profile) in your pic correct? I have a 20" roller nose bar that looks exactly like that except for length on a Homelite XL12 parts saw I got a while ago. Haven't pulled it and looked closely for markings yet. Bet I find "Poulan" on it...
:clap:
 
First off, thanks for all the tweaking/tuning information, as it will save me cutting a cylinder base gasket; I checked squish without a gasket in place and it comes out at about 0.026".

Since I've got the thing stripped down, I'd like to touch up the paint work. Does anyone have suggestions on where to source Craftsman red (or some facsimile thereof)?

Also, what are the torquing specs for the crankcase and cylinder base bolts on the 3700? (do these get any threadlocker/sealant?)

Thanks much,
-j.

If you have a Tractor Supply in your area check them out. You should be able to find some shade of red to match
Bob
 
Looking for Piston S25DA

Anyone have a new or used (good condition) piston for a S25DA?

If so, I am looking to buy one.

Part # for a (kit) is 530069298, will buy kit or piston alone.

Thanks Gentlemen,

Flint.
 
Got a little issue with my 4900, seems the PO drilled the fuel line hole on the tank out to 5/16, so now the fuel line doesn't seal and fuel leaks out everywere when you tip the saw. Even if I use MMs method with a threaded fitting the hole is too big to tap now, and I really don't want to spend $50 for used fuel tank handle on ebay. Anyone have any suggestions???
 
Got a little issue with my 4900, seems the PO drilled the fuel line hole on the tank out to 5/16, so now the fuel line doesn't seal and fuel leaks out everywere when you tip the saw. Even if I use MMs method with a threaded fitting the hole is too big to tap now, and I really don't want to spend $50 for used fuel tank handle on ebay. Anyone have any suggestions???

bigger fitting? bigger line and then reduce to proper size at carb either with a reducer or a hose clamp?
 
A guy i cut some trees down in his yard came by my workplace and left me this. He just sit it down and was fixin to leave and i said what is that/ He said it's your's. I went huh! And he left. It looks almost new. Hadn't started it, I know they sell these at wally world but how many cc's is it. It's got a 16 inch bar on it. Came with a case and a new gallon of bar oil.

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A guy i cut some trees down in his yard came by my workplace and left me this. He just sit it down and was fixin to leave and i said what is that/ He said it's your's. I went huh! And he left. It looks almost new. Hadn't started it, I know they sell these at wally world but how many cc's is it. It's got a 16 inch bar on it. Came with a case and a new gallon of bar oil.

Good price! Neat looking bench. Nicely organized. :msp_thumbup:
 
Got a little issue with my 4900, seems the PO drilled the fuel line hole on the tank out to 5/16, so now the fuel line doesn't seal and fuel leaks out everywere when you tip the saw. Even if I use MMs method with a threaded fitting the hole is too big to tap now, and I really don't want to spend $50 for used fuel tank handle on ebay. Anyone have any suggestions???

Have been using electrical grommets for the 5/16 holes with good luck so far. Got a Johnny 630 and a 288 running that way for a year now. OD is 5/16 ID is 3/16. They can be purchased at any hardware store.
 
A guy i cut some trees down in his yard came by my workplace and left me this. He just sit it down and was fixin to leave and i said what is that/ He said it's your's. I went huh! And he left. It looks almost new. Hadn't started it, I know they sell these at wally world but how many cc's is it. It's got a 16 inch bar on it. Came with a case and a new gallon of bar oil.

Great price. Good saws for the money. I used mine from time to time when I do not need to feel my fingers for the remainder of the day.
 
Nice score Mark. The Poulan branded bar is the bottom one (with the 'fatter' profile) in your pic correct? I have a 20" roller nose bar that looks exactly like that except for length on a Homelite XL12 parts saw I got a while ago. Haven't pulled it and looked closely for markings yet. Bet I find "Poulan" on it...
:clap:

No the orginal Poulan bar is the one in the center. The new ones I got do have a very slightly larger profile. There close, very close.


Have been using electrical grommets for the 5/16 holes with good luck so far. Got a Johnny 630 and a 288 running that way for a year now. OD is 5/16 ID is 3/16. They can be purchased at any hardware store.

Mitch that is a very good suggestion, and I have a few saws with those grommets right now as well.

The problem in this application is that the fuel fitting on the carb is for a 3/16" ID line. I doubt you could stretch a 1/8" ID line over it.

My suggestion is to try a 3/16" ID X 5/16" OD line on it. It maybe fine and its easy to find in that size. That size line is what got me to use the screw in fittings though as the original tank hole was just under 5/16" and too tight for a 5/16" OD line.
 
Got a little issue with my 4900, seems the PO drilled the fuel line hole on the tank out to 5/16, so now the fuel line doesn't seal and fuel leaks out everywere when you tip the saw. Even if I use MMs method with a threaded fitting the hole is too big to tap now, and I really don't want to spend $50 for used fuel tank handle on ebay. Anyone have any suggestions???


Dave...if you'll PM me your mailing address I'll send you a "patch line" I've made up for you.

Just don't thread the hole or make it any larger than it already is. IF it is truly a 5/16" (the hole) then.....what I have made up...will work for you. All you'll need to do is pull the line up through the 5/16" hole until 1/2 of the "stent" is showing.

You will have enough of the correct size line (for the carb) left to attach it.

I'll post pics later of this simple fix for over-sized holes (providing they aren't too large).

Flint.
 
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Ok Thanks, It's smaller than the wild thing.

The advertising may say that it is 34cc, but this saw family never had a 34 cc engine. It had a 36cc (for a while) and a 42cc engine. After a while, the 36cc was dropped and the 42cc was used for all versions (used for all advertised displacements 30cc to 42cc). In all probability your saw is 42cc, same as WildThing. This saw family has not been sold in US (Wally World or elsewhere) for over 6 years, since it was replaced at all US retailers by the current airhead saw family - may use the same model numbers, but the only thing the same between saw families is the spark plug.
 
Swap out the 3/16 ID. Must say I'm not completely familiar with this exact set up but if this works.....I have done it before with success.


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I tried starting it and no go so looked it over, There was a rotten fuel line broke and somebody had put a new one in on another line. I had some line and replaced the rotten one.I don't have a clue if they got them hooked up right.

I looked at my craftsman 42cc and the carb is different. I can pump the bulb and it will run for a little then die.

Anyone have a diagram of the fuel system? I'm not sure if they have them on right. Also, What should the screws be set on, It has a lo and high. You can't move them far cause of the plastic stops.

It acts like it's starving for fuel. One of the lines may be backward. I have the line from the tank with the filter going to the bulb and the other on the bulb going to the bottom fitting. The top fitting is a smaller line and it goes in the tank on the flywheel side.

The carb may need cleaning too. I will take it off and clean it later when i get some time.

Thanks for the replies, It hasn't been used a lot. It has had gas stored in it for a long time and lines are rotten. But they are new now if only i have them on right.
 
Dave,

One of the easiest ways to “enlarge” a flexible (tygon) fuel line so that it will fit an oversize hole is to simply insert a “stent”. It borrows from the idea of opening arteries in the human body.

As long as the size increase is modest…the method is easy to use and does not restrict fuel flow appreciably.

By using a short length of “open” coil spring (slightly larger in O.D. than the I.D. of the fuel line) we can can “swell” the diameter of the line enough to provide a tight fit in the hole of the fuel tank.

That way you don’t have to fool with making a grommet (which may not be fuel resistant).

Below is what it looks like:

Patchline2.jpg


Ideally, you would just use an entire length of the correct size fuel line, but I had some other fuel line with a filter already attached that I wasn’t using.

So if you are not a puritan in terms of having it “stock” this conglomeration will work for you and is yours if you want it.

Patchline1.jpg


I have already cut an angle on one end and put a hole in it. All you need to do is thread the wire down through the tank opening, out the fuel cap hole and attach it to the fuel line.

Then pull the line back up through the tank until ½ of the Stent is showing, cut off any excess line and connect to carb (you know the drill…I am sure).


Flint.
 
I tried starting it and no go so looked it over, There was a rotten fuel line broke and somebody had put a new one in on another line. I had some line and replaced the rotten one.I don't have a clue if they got them hooked up right.

I looked at my craftsman 42cc and the carb is different. I can pump the bulb and it will run for a little then die.

Anyone have a diagram of the fuel system? I'm not sure if they have them on right. Also, What should the screws be set on, It has a lo and high. You can't move them far cause of the plastic stops.

It acts like it's starving for fuel. One of the lines may be backward. I have the line from the tank with the filter going to the bulb and the other on the bulb going to the bottom fitting. The top fitting is a smaller line and it goes in the tank on the flywheel side.

The carb may need cleaning too. I will take it off and clean it later when i get some time.

Thanks for the replies, It hasn't been used a lot. It has had gas stored in it for a long time and lines are rotten. But they are new now if only i have them on right.

Take the primer bulb off and look at the back of it.Most of them are marked tank & carb.I have 2 of the same saw they are both 36cc.Not bad little saws!
 
I tried starting it and no go so looked it over, There was a rotten fuel line broke and somebody had put a new one in on another line. I had some line and replaced the rotten one.I don't have a clue if they got them hooked up right.

I looked at my craftsman 42cc and the carb is different. I can pump the bulb and it will run for a little then die.

Anyone have a diagram of the fuel system? I'm not sure if they have them on right. Also, What should the screws be set on, It has a lo and high. You can't move them far cause of the plastic stops.

It acts like it's starving for fuel. One of the lines may be backward. I have the line from the tank with the filter going to the bulb and the other on the bulb going to the bottom fitting. The top fitting is a smaller line and it goes in the tank on the flywheel side.

The carb may need cleaning too. I will take it off and clean it later when i get some time.

Thanks for the replies, It hasn't been used a lot. It has had gas stored in it for a long time and lines are rotten. But they are new now if only i have them on right.

Rick, as t-bone said the back of the bulb is labeled. Many people think the bulb pumps gas into the carb when in fact it draws fuel up the line, through the carb, through the bulb, and then back into the tank. All the lines on that saw will be just standard Tygon. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!
 

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