Nik's Poulan Thread

[dave76]

A guy i cut some trees down in his yard came by my workplace and left me this. He just sit it down and was fixin to leave and i said what is that/ He said it's your's. I went huh! And he left. It looks almost new. Hadn't started it, I know they sell these at wally world but how many cc's is it. It's got a 16 inch bar on it. Came with a case and a new gallon of bar oil.

Yes if it's before type 5 it's a 36cc saw, type 5 and after they were 42cc. In the back of the saw by the rear handle should be the EPA info tag these always has the cc displacement on them, if it's missing you need to measure the cylinder. Regaurdless if it's 36 or 42cc I like em both, actually the 36cc works great with the stock carbs, the 42cc needs a bigger carb in my opinion. I'm running a WT-285 on my wildthing which is from a 2900 saw, the venturi is 13.49 as oposed to 11.11 which what all the other carbs measure out at on these saws.

Dave,

One of the easiest ways to “enlarge” a flexible (tygon) fuel line so that it will fit an oversize hole is to simply insert a “stent”. It borrows from the idea of opening arteries in the human body.

As long as the size increase is modest…the method is easy to use and does not restrict fuel flow appreciably.

By using a short length of “open” coil spring (slightly larger in O.D. than the I.D. of the fuel line) we can can “swell” the diameter of the line enough to provide a tight fit in the hole of the fuel tank.

That way you don’t have to fool with making a grommet (which may not be fuel resistant).

Ideally, you would just use an entire length of the correct size fuel line, but I had some other fuel line with a filter already attached that I wasn’t using.

So if you are not a puritan in terms of having it “stock” this conglomeration will work for you and is yours if you want it.

I have already cut an angle on one end and put a hole in it. All you need to do is thread the wire down through the tank opening, out the fuel cap hole and attach it to the fuel line.

Then pull the line back up through the tank until ½ of the Stent is showing, cut off any excess line and connect to carb (you know the drill…I am sure).


Flint.

Thanks, I actually was gonna do Modified Marks mod and run the threaded fitting with 1/8 x 3/16 line in the tank and then 3/16 x 5/16 to the carb but since I see it was drilled to 5/16 already forget that idea.:msp_mad: Your idea seems like it'll work.

 

[HeRoze]

Got a little issue with my 4900, seems the PO drilled the fuel line hole on the tank out to 5/16, so now the fuel line doesn't seal and fuel leaks out everywere when you tip the saw. Even if I use MMs method with a threaded fitting the hole is too big to tap now, and I really don't want to spend $50 for used fuel tank handle on ebay. Anyone have any suggestions???

<edit> I should have read the entire thread... ignore the following as you have gotten some great answers already

</edit>
rubber grommet

 

[dave76]

Rick, as t-bone said the back of the bulb is labeled. Many people think the bulb pumps gas into the carb when in fact it draws fuel up the line, through the carb, through the bulb, and then back into the tank. All the lines on that saw will be just standard Tygon. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!

Yes I always run new tygon line. There is a larger line 3/32 x 3/16 this line goes from the bulb into the tank to the fitting, the smaller .080 x .140 line runs from the bulb to the carb, the other small .080 x .140 line runs from the filter to the carb. Hope this helps.:msp_thumbup:

 

[stihl sawing]

Take the primer bulb off and look at the back of it.Most of them are marked tank & carb.I have 2 of the same saw they are both 36cc.Not bad little saws!

Rick, as t-bone said the back of the bulb is labeled. Many people think the bulb pumps gas into the carb when in fact it draws fuel up the line, through the carb, through the bulb, and then back into the tank. All the lines on that saw will be just standard Tygon. GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!

Thanks guys, I will check that tommorrow.

Yes if it's before type 5 it's a 36cc saw, type 5 and after they were 42cc. In the back of the saw by the rear handle should be the EPA info tag these always has the cc displacement on them, if it's missing you need to measure the cylinder. Regaurdless if it's 36 or 42cc I like em both, actually the 36cc works great with the stock carbs, the 42cc needs a bigger carb in my opinion. I'm running a WT-285 on my wildthing which is from a 2900 saw, the venturi is 13.49 as oposed to 11.11 which what all the other carbs measure out at on these saws.

I figure it's probably the 36 since the carb is different than my 42. It's not a big deal anyway. I just want to get it running right.

 

[stihl sawing]

Yes I always run new tygon line. There is a larger line 3/32 x 3/16 this line goes from the bulb into the tank to the fitting, the smaller .080 x .140 line runs from the bulb to the carb, the other small .080 x .140 line runs from the filter to the carb. Hope this helps.:msp_thumbup:

I have them backwards then, I will do like you said here. Thanks.

 

[dave76]

I figure it's probably the 36 since the carb is different than my 42. It's not a big deal anyway. I just want to get it running right.

These saws came with a boat load of different carbs, all measure out to 11.11 mm they started with WT-324, then I guess WT-624, WT-662, WT-391, I believe WT-89 was the only carb on this series of saws that measured 13.5mm, I've been trying to find one with no luck. They even used a Zama W20

 

[dave76]

<edit> I should have read the entire thread... ignore the following as you have gotten some great answers already

</edit>
rubber grommet

Yeah actually I like Flintknapper's idea, looks like it'll work nice.

 

[dave76]

A guy i cut some trees down in his yard came by my workplace and left me this. He just sit it down and was fixin to leave and i said what is that/ He said it's your's. I went huh! And he left. It looks almost new. Hadn't started it, I know they sell these at wally world but how many cc's is it. It's got a 16 inch bar on it. Came with a case and a new gallon of bar oil.

Forgot to mention these are very popular saws on ebay, I see them go for good money all the time.

 

[stihl sawing]

Forgot to mention these are very popular saws on ebay, I see them go for good money all the time.

If i can get it going, I'll use it to limb with. It might start better than my MS-250. That thing floods way too easy.

 

[Flintknapper]

dave76 wrote:

Thanks, I actually was gonna do Modified Marks mod and run the threaded fitting with 1/8 x 3/16 line in the tank and then 3/16 x 5/16 to the carb but since I see it was drilled to 5/16 already forget that idea.:msp_mad: Your idea seems like it'll work.

As with most things...there is usually "more than one way to skin a cat". Mark's idea is excellent..and he is chief among Poulan repairs around here IMO.

Unfortunately, you already have a rather large hole in the tank and any further attempts to add a threaded fitting would probably involve having to "relieve" part of the step-up that is present just above the hole. Just extra work (not that it can't be done).

I'll get your patch-line sent out tomorrow, it should work and last a long time.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Dave,

One of the easiest ways to “enlarge” a flexible (tygon) fuel line so that it will fit an oversize hole is to simply insert a “stent”. It borrows from the idea of opening arteries in the human body.

As long as the size increase is modest…the method is easy to use and does not restrict fuel flow appreciably.

By using a short length of “open” coil spring (slightly larger in O.D. than the I.D. of the fuel line) we can can “swell” the diameter of the line enough to provide a tight fit in the hole of the fuel tank.

That way you don’t have to fool with making a grommet (which may not be fuel resistant).

Below is what it looks like:

Ideally, you would just use an entire length of the correct size fuel line, but I had some other fuel line with a filter already attached that I wasn’t using.

So if you are not a puritan in terms of having it “stock” this conglomeration will work for you and is yours if you want it.

I have already cut an angle on one end and put a hole in it. All you need to do is thread the wire down through the tank opening, out the fuel cap hole and attach it to the fuel line.

Then pull the line back up through the tank until ½ of the Stent is showing, cut off any excess line and connect to carb (you know the drill…I am sure).


Flint.

Flint, what size are those 2 lines?

Is the lower a 5/16 ID?

If so that seems awful unflexable to me to let the filter get to where it needs to be.

A 5/16 OD line was too thick for me and thats why I went with the 2 piece setup with a 1/8" ID line in the tank.

I have 2 NOS Poulan lines for a 5200 here but even though they are correct and a lot thinner wall thickness, it seems they have stiffened with age so are no good as far as I'm concerned.

 

[67L36Driver]

Got two of them 2150s.

Fuel and vent/purge lines of the correct size for 2150's are at your local Sears Service center. The larger is the vent line and it gets a hose barb that you pull up against the tank hole so it seals. I had a WTF moment when I found it (the barb) on the end of the line.

Primer bulb is a misnomer. Purge bulb is much better discription of its' function. Sucks fuel thru the carb..

Put a good chain on it and open up the muffler outlet, you will be suprised.

 

[Flintknapper]

Flint, what size are those 2 lines?

Is the lower a 5/16 ID?

If so that seems awful unflexable to me to let the filter get to where it needs to be.

A 5/16 OD line was too thick for me and thats why I went with the 2 piece setup with a 1/8" ID line in the tank.

I have 2 NOS Poulan lines for a 5200 here but even though they are correct and a lot thinner wall thickness, it seems they have stiffened with age so are no good as far as I'm concerned.

Lower line is a bit under 5/16" I.D. (as is the O.D. of the other line). It is fairly soft....but as you suggest...it will not completely swivel around in the bottom of tank to get every bit of fuel.

I replaced the line on my 4900 with a full length of the line shown (upper) and it gets pretty low before you run out of fuel.

This set up (while not ideal) will let you cut (even with saw on side) long enough that you'll want to quit, rest, and top it off.

These saws tend to run out more when you are bucking and have the bar tilted forward, since a large portion of the tank is forward.

I'm 6'-5", 260 lbs and in reasonably good shape (for an old man), but I'm more than ready to the put the saw down by the time I've gone through a tank (non-stop).

Maybe...I'm getting to be a Nancy...but I don't want it to run any longer than that.

 

[67 Mustang]

These saws came with a boat load of different carbs, all measure out to 11.11 mm they started with WT-324, then I guess WT-624, WT-662, WT-391, I believe WT-89 was the only carb on this series of saws that measured 13.5mm, I've been trying to find one with no luck. They even used a Zama W20

Here's a new WT-89.

NEW POULAN CHAINSAW CARBURETOR ASSEMBLY 548081885 WT89 | eBay

Some of the sponsors may be able to source also.

 

[redunshee]

Here's a new WT-89.

NEW POULAN CHAINSAW CARBURETOR ASSEMBLY 548081885 WT89 | eBay

Some of the sponsors may be able to source also.

Hmmm, may have to look into a new bigger carb. Got my WildThing 4018 going but am amazed how much open the lo needle is for it to run smoothly. Bet its 1.5 to 2 turns.
Bob

 

[8433jeff]

Hmmm, may have to look into a new bigger carb. Got my WildThing 4018 going but am amazed how much open the lo needle is for it to run smoothly. Bet its 1.5 to 2 turns.
Bob

Doesn't seem uncommon for these Bob after a "proper" tuning. I haven't ground on mine, and its open that far with a muffler mod.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

The advertising may say that it is 34cc, but this saw family never had a 34 cc engine. It had a 36cc (for a while) and a 42cc engine. After a while, the 36cc was dropped and the 42cc was used for all versions (used for all advertised displacements 30cc to 42cc). In all probability your saw is 42cc, same as WildThing. This saw family has not been sold in US (Wally World or elsewhere) for over 6 years, since it was replaced at all US retailers by the current airhead saw family - may use the same model numbers, but the only thing the same between saw families is the spark plug.

so is the 2.1 ci on the starter cover a misnomer? surely they wouldn't misrepresent, eh?

 

[jreames]

Stop Switch wire (3700)

The sleeving on the original has disintegrated, and the NOS replacement isn't in any better condition.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
Heat shrink? Tape? Spiral-slicing a piece of fuel line?

Thanks much

 

[67 Mustang]

The sleeving on the original has disintegrated, and the NOS replacement isn't in any better condition.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
Heat shrink? Tape? Spiral-slicing a piece of fuel line?

Thanks much

I'd try heat shrink. Sure would make a neater looking job than tape. Heat shrink might not keep wire from arcing to ground. Depends on the voltage rating but at least it's made for insulating wire where fuel line isn't. I guess you could try though.

 

[67 Mustang]

Hmmm, may have to look into a new bigger carb. Got my WildThing 4018 going but am amazed how much open the lo needle is for it to run smoothly. Bet its 1.5 to 2 turns.
Bob

Yeah, just rebuilt a carb on a PP260 for a friend and had to open the both needles a couple turns to get it to run correctly. I knew the metering lever was correct since I set it with the gauge.