Nik's Poulan Thread

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Yes the 6000's are large!

I'm looking for a different bar and chain before I run it. It would be a shame to run this original 30" HT bar.

I know about the wood, I just split up the last of what I have here. Too much rain and little time to get more right now.

Mark,

What size bar were you looking for? I got alot of hours to work this week, but I'll dig thru my stash to find you something to use.

Chris B.
 
Well....hopefully the part # was correct since I've already ordered it.

These folks had it advertised for $ 18.63

M&D Mower -- Search results

So far...they haven't called me back saying it is incorrect or that they don't have it. But we'll see........


Just an update. Got my cylinder in today, it is an exact replacement for the one that was on there. Its a nice looking "jug", good quality and very reasonably priced.

So....if anyone needs one, M&D has them. Good job M&D!


Still looking for rings though.
 
Poulan 3450

I was just given a 3450 with a freshly rebuilt carb.:smile2: I put an 18' bar on it and now would like to tune it up. What are the idle and no load rpm settings for this saw? It would be nice to have another low cost wood cutter. Also, any other info on this saw would be apperciated.

Shea
 
Generally, the idle is to be just low enough that the clutch doesn't engage.

On this series of saw I like to have them where they just begin to four cycle at wide open not in the wood.

When stuck in the wood, the break into two cycle.

I don't use a tach.
 
Generally, the idle is to be just low enough that the clutch doesn't engage.

On this series of saw I like to have them where they just begin to four cycle at wide open not in the wood.

When stuck in the wood, the break into two cycle.

I don't use a tach.

+1 on the above, and its an excellent saw with an 18" bar.
 
Looks like I may have a 3400 also, what if any are the differences that I should take note of. Anyplace I can get the displacemet of both saws?

The 3450 is 54cc. The 3400 is 56cc. They are both nice mid-size saws. The 3450 being a newer, lighter, design.

The 3750 is 60cc version of the 3450. And the 3700 is a 61cc version of the 3400.
:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Looks like I may have a 3400 also, what if any are the differences that I should take note of. Anyplace I can get the displacemet of both saws?

Chain Saw Collectors Corner Home

This site is a helpful place to reference different models. Not 100% accurate in all instances, but very helpful.
:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Poulan 245 rope removal

Is there any special trick to getting the rope, out of the pulley, on a 245? It looks like it runs through a small tunnel, made into the pulley. I've tried clamping the rope, in a vise, and pulling....but it won't budge. Anyone done this before???:confused:
 
Is there any special trick to getting the rope, out of the pulley, on a 245? It looks like it runs through a small tunnel, made into the pulley. I've tried clamping the rope, in a vise, and pulling....but it won't budge. Anyone done this before???:confused:

You will never pull that rope from the loop/tunnel in the recoil pully from the handle end. It has to be pulled out from the other end as there is a pin driven through the rope to keep it from pulling through it.

They can be wedged in pretty tight though and I have got in a hurry and drilled the rope out with a small bit.

The new rope will have to be pinned as well, and the end of the rope has to be cut with heat to melt the end of the rope solid. You can use a small finishing nail (# 4 if I remember right) in place of the original pin. Of course it has to be cut off after being driven through the rope.

I think I posted pictures of this at one time here.
 
You will never pull that rope from the loop/tunnel in the recoil pully from the handle end. It has to be pulled out from the other end as there is a pin driven through the rope to keep it from pulling through it.

They can be wedged in pretty tight though and I have got in a hurry and drilled the rope out with a small bit.

The new rope will have to be pinned as well, and the end of the rope has to be cut with heat to melt the end of the rope solid. You can use a small finishing nail (# 4 if I remember right) in place of the original pin. Of course it has to be cut off after being driven through the rope.

I think I posted pictures of this at one time here.

I don't see any pin holding the rope in. It goes through the tunnel, and I can lift it straight up. I attached some pics, in another post, but they haven't been approved yet.
 
I don't see any pin holding the rope in. It goes through the tunnel, and I can lift it straight up. I attached some pics, in another post, but they haven't been approved yet.

attachment.php
 
I got it! The pin was shoved in UNDER the rope, wedging it in. THANKS!!!!:clap:

Now, if I could just find the shop manual..............:dizzy:
 
If your manual oiler is working correctly like you say, that means the check valves made into the pump are working correctly so that almost means it has to be the fault of the diaphragm.

Just an update to a old post...

Thanks for the Help Mark...Ended up with a new diaphram and quad seal. Oils like new, now on to the muffler mod...
 
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