Nik's Poulan Thread

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In the neighberhood of $185. Another nice one just sold ro $177.00. Lot of money for a 3400. I can't even get $55.00 for a 3300.

That's par for the course if you're selling on ebay, you never know what anything will bring. It has nothing to do with what you have, it's a matter of who's online and what they want at the time.
 
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got a good score a few days ago. $60 and a case of oldstyle later, im the proud new owner of a poulan 3400, 4000, and a stihl 08s. cleand up the poulans and they both started with new plugs. the 4000 got new fuel lines and filter but the bar is twisted. it has a 20", but not sure what to replace it with? i was thinking 20" on both due to having gotten 3 new chains with them. still not sure which oregon bars to go with. any sugestions? the 3400 starts then dies so next is new lines and filter then go from there. the stihl has no spark as of now but thats how i got it. i will mess with that one when the poulans are good to go.

Nice saws! Well, The Poulans anyway, LOL I don't have a clue about the 08.:msp_smile: Like Bob said, the Oregon D176 mount bars is what the Poulans will take, and are still available. I run 20" on the 4000 and occasionally a 24". The 3400 will handle a 20", but you can't horse it especially with big wood. An 18" seems about perfect for it.

Replacing fuel lines, filter, & duckbill tank vent is the norm on these saws. A carb kit is usually a good idea also. The Oregon power Match plus bar is probably your best bet for them. Although you can find cheaper bars for them also, like the Forrester brand laminated bars. You will find the Poulans will need a .50 ga. 70 dr. link 3/8" chain in 20".
Good luck with em!!

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
In the neighberhood of $185. Another nice one just sold ro $177.00. Lot of money for a 3400. I can't even get $55.00 for a 3300.

I was thinking of trying to sell one of my 4000's on ebay. But just to skeered it wouldn't bring enough..LOL Plus the fact I have never SOLD a saw. I just can't bring myself to sell one. Truth be told, most of mine just spend most of their time sitting collecting dust. If I sold one, I know I would regret it later. A fella can only use so many saws though!:D

I spent 20 years cutting with only a 3400. But, have found the 4000 to be my favorite all-around use saw. Especially being able to use a 24" bar easily with em. Just to old and set in my ways I guess..lol

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
I was thinking of trying to sell one of my 4000's on ebay. But just to skeered it wouldn't bring enough..LOL Plus the fact I have never SOLD a saw. I just can't bring myself to sell one. Truth be told, most of mine just spend most of their time sitting collecting dust. If I sold one, I know I would regret it later. A fella can only use so many saws though!:D

I spent 20 years cutting with only a 3400. But, have found the 4000 to be my favorite all-around use saw. Especially being able to use a 24" bar easily with em. Just to old and set in my ways I guess..lol

:cheers:
Gregg,

I too will not sell a saw to a stranger unless they really made it worth my while. Honestly, I'd rather give the saw away. That way at least I would feel good about doing a nice thing instead of that sick feeling you get when a saw goes for less than 1/2 of what you thought you could get for it (or put into it)
 
I too will not sell a saw to a stranger unless they really made it worth my while. Honestly, I'd rather give the saw away. That way at least I would feel good about doing a nice thing instead of that sick feeling you get when a saw goes for less than 1/2 of what you thought you could get for it (or put into it)

I hear you. I've got three 4000's plus numerous other saws here in Texas that just sit. At least the one's in Vermont get used each year. I may wait till fall to sell one of the 4000's and one of my 3400's, of which I have three. I'm so bad that I got a saw in the mail I had forgotten I had bought. Is a PP405. Heavy sob to say the least.
Bob
 
I hear you. I've got three 4000's plus numerous other saws here in Texas that just sit. At least the one's in Vermont get used each year. I may wait till fall to sell one of the 4000's and one of my 3400's, of which I have three. I'm so bad that I got a saw in the mail I had forgotten I had bought. Is a PP405. Heavy sob to say the least.
Bob

Thats a good one LOL Bought one you forgot :D Just like xmas time :D
 
I too will not sell a saw to a stranger unless they really made it worth my while. Honestly, I'd rather give the saw away. That way at least I would feel good about doing a nice thing instead of that sick feeling you get when a saw goes for less than 1/2 of what you thought you could get for it (or put into it)

I'm thinking about buying a bunch of decals that say "Stihl 044" on them and pasting them on my saws that I sell, might make them sell faster.
 
got a really dumb question (cause i should already know). i have a poulan 2000 that is missing the air filter. i plan to modify one of the off-the-shelve foam filters at HD or sloes but need to know if i should oil the filter before replacing. the only thing the shop manual i have says is to make sure the filter is dry before replacing. depending upon you view of how to speak english that could mean completely dry (without oil) or dry (as in no more water). need some interpretation since i tend to take words at their true meaning. see, i told you it was a dumb question.

bump
 
Super 33 recoil

I'm taking the recoil assembly apart on the S-33, and have gotten down to the pulley and center spindle. Does the center spindle unscrew? It's flat on each side, but you can't really get anything on it, except a 1/4" wrench. I don't want to fubar this thing. I'm sure someone here has taken one of these guys apart before.:help:

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I generally clean my foam filters, let them dry then put a small amount of oil on them and wring them out. You want something for the dirt to stick to rather than go into the engine.

thanks, that's what i thought but just wanted to check with others. that's what i always did with my small 4-strokes.
 
I'm taking the recoil assembly apart on the S-33, and have gotten down to the pulley and center spindle. Does the center spindle unscrew? It's flat on each side, but you can't really get anything on it, except a 1/4" wrench. I don't want to fubar this thing. I'm sure someone here has taken one of these guys apart before.:help:

<dl><dt style="width: 372px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/769/779627/1309457988-629.JPG.php"><img src="http://img3.claspics.com/769/779627/1309457988-629.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>

Your recoil pull ought to slide right off at that point. Is it frozen from rust? I had one I soaked for days to get it free and finally used an air impact wrench to break it free. Almost broke my thumb doing it. The starter dogs and the e-clip is what holds the pulley on the spindle and no, it doesn't unscrew AFAIK. It does break off.

Also, hemi, the starter dog assembly is sandwiched between two fiber washers along with a couple metal washers and a spring that puts tension on the dogs. Make sure you keep them clean and don't put oil on them when you put that back together. The fiber washers are made to put tension on the dogs so they spread apart and grip the inside of the cup attached to the flywheel. If you get oil on that assembly the whole thing will slip and will not grab correctly.
 
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Your recoil pull ought to slide right off at that point. Is it frozen from rust? I had one I soaked for days to get it free and finally used an air impact wrench to break it free. Almost broke my thumb doing it. The starter dogs and the e-clip is what holds the pulley on the spindle and no, it doesn't unscrew AFAIK. It does break off.

Also, hemi, the starter dog assembly is sandwiched between two fiber washers along with a couple metal washers and a spring that puts tension on the dogs. Make sure you keep them clean and don't put oil on them when you put that back together. The fiber washers are made to put tension on the dogs so they spread apart and grip the inside of the cup attached to the flywheel. If you get oil on that assembly the whole thing will slip and will not grab correctly.

Thanks! It wasn't frozen, it would turn freely, just would only lift up so far, and then it sounded like it was hitting something, that was keeping it from coming off. Finally, I just cleaned everything real good, and put it back together.....BUT.............I'm going to have to take it apart, because I lubed up what shouldn't have been lubed.
Do you happen to know what the bore size is? It's not listed on Acres site.......And, are carb kits still available for this thing?

Rob
 
Thanks! It wasn't frozen, it would turn freely, just would only lift up so far, and then it sounded like it was hitting something, that was keeping it from coming off. Finally, I just cleaned everything real good, and put it back together.....BUT.............I'm going to have to take it apart, because I lubed up what shouldn't have been lubed.
Do you happen to know what the bore size is? It's not listed on Acres site.......And, are carb kits still available for this thing?

Rob

Rob, it's a Tillotson HL carb and uses a standard RK-88HL repair kit or you can just get a diaphragm kit which is DG-5HL. Your local saw shop can get those for you if they don't have them. Bailey's may have them and of course they're plentiful on eBay.

I don't know what the bore size is. I've had success cleaning those fiber washers in an utrasonic cleaner.
 
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Rob, it's a Tillotson HL carb and uses a standard RK-88HL repair kit or you can just get a diaphragm kit which is DG-5HL. Your local saw shop can get those for you if they don't have them. Bailey's may have them and of course they're plentiful on eBay.

I don't know what the bore size is. I've had success cleaning those fiber washers in an utrasonic cleaner.

I found out why it wouldn't come off......the bottom washer was stuck on. Got it loose, and the pulley slid right off.
I soaked the washers, in lacquer thinner, for a couple minutes..then dried them off and put everything back together....WITHOUT lube.....:bang:

Thanks for the carb kit numbers....nice to know they're still available. Pretty sure it will need rings, as there isn't a lot of resistance when you turn the flywheel over, by hand.
 
Piston ring info

A couple weeks ago, I had asked about getting rings for older saws, and someone asked me to PM them my email address, and that they would send me the info on a guy in NM, that custom makes rings. Well, they did, but when Outlook Express was compacting my email, something happened, and I lost ALL of my emails. I was able to retrieve some, but ending up losing most. I need to get that info again, please. :angry:
 
A couple weeks ago, I had asked about getting rings for older saws, and someone asked me to PM them my email address, and that they would send me the info on a guy in NM, that custom makes rings. Well, they did, but when Outlook Express was compacting my email, something happened, and I lost ALL of my emails. I was able to retrieve some, but ending up losing most. I need to get that info again, please. :angry:

I sent one about a guy in MD.
 
I'm so bad that I got a saw in the mail I had forgotten I had bought.
Bob

Dont feel like the Lone Ranger. :laugh:





got a really dumb question (cause i should already know). i have a poulan 2000 that is missing the air filter. i plan to modify one of the off-the-shelve foam filters at HD or sloes but need to know if i should oil the filter before replacing. the only thing the shop manual i have says is to make sure the filter is dry before replacing. depending upon you view of how to speak english that could mean completely dry (without oil) or dry (as in no more water). need some interpretation since i tend to take words at their true meaning. see, i told you it was a dumb question.


Why do you want to jerry rig a filter on that saw? The OEM is still availiable from Poulan and they work the best and there cheap too.

Good luck with trying to get the carb adjusted right with the filter cover on with a rigged up B&S filter. Also, do not oil that filter either... :bang:
 
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