redunshee
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Well, that makes a differance! I'd still check plug color, though.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Well, that makes a differance! I'd still check plug color, though.
I tend to agree with ya Bob. Im sure when Steve put his tach on that one 4000 of mine, that it hit 14,000!!! Scared me to say the least. So I been leaning to the rich side since then. LOL None of mine are ported, all have muffler mods though. Still gave me the willies when I saw that. I suppose I should invest in a tach. Tuning by ear seems to be hit or miss for me. Either that, or have someone with a keen tuning ear, like Brad or Andre set all my saws, then leave them alone..LOL:hmm3grin2orange:
Gregg,
'Nuther 245
Just picked this one up, today. Looks well taken care of, but only has 85# of compression. It's a 245, so I assume it's strictly a manual oil saw????
<dl><dt><a href="http://claspics.com/255/785182/1310059405-287.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/255/785182/1310059405-287.JPG_t.jpg" border="0" /></a> </dt><dt style="width: 528px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/255/785182/1310059410-105.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/255/785182/1310059410-105.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>
Just picked this one up, today. Looks well taken care of, but only has 85# of compression. It's a 245, so I assume it's strictly a manual oil saw????
<dl><dt><a href="http://claspics.com/255/785182/1310059405-287.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/255/785182/1310059405-287.JPG_t.jpg" border="0" /></a> </dt><dt style="width: 528px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/255/785182/1310059410-105.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/255/785182/1310059410-105.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
up once the governor take
No its auto oiling. The 245A has both manual and auto oiling and the 245 only auto oiling.
Bob
PS; these saws have a governor on the carb, so don't use a tach to set. 1 1/4 turns on the Hi speed seems to work well. It will sound like its 4 stroking out of the cut but will clean up in the cut.
Bob
No its auto oiling. The 245A has both manual and auto oiling and the 245 only auto oiling.
Bob
PS; these saws have a governor on the carb, so don't use a tach to set. 1 1/4 turns on the Hi speed seems to work well. It will sound like its 4 stroking out of the cut but will clean up in the cut.
Bob
Another nice oldie ya got there Hemiyota! Yea, if its just the plain 245 and not a 245A, it would be a manual oiler. Looks to be an early model at that. The light green/yellow with no black on it. My early 306's hace the same type upper handle. Kind of a dipped on plastic coating. The 85# compression don't sound good. I have no experince with refurbing a bad P/C. But, Mike, RMS61Moparman is good at that.
Gregg,
HeRoze
Addicted to ArboristSite
an oil plug might get you going until you get the coveted OEM plug. just a thought. i googled 'threaded oil plug' with some luck.
I don't see any signs of any type of governing mechanism. Is it something internal (carb)?
<dl><dt style="width: 576px; text-align: center;"><a href="http://claspics.com/489/785695/1310084128-680.JPG.php"><img src="http://img1.claspics.com/489/785695/1310084128-680.JPG_m.jpg" border="0" /></a></dt></dl>
Another nice oldie ya got there Hemiyota! Yea, if its just the plain 245 and not a 245A, it would be a manual oiler. Looks to be an early model at that. The light green/yellow with no black on it. My early 306's hace the same type upper handle. Kind of a dipped on plastic coating. The 85# compression don't sound good. I have no experince with refurbing a bad P/C. But, Mike, RMS61Moparman is good at that.
Gregg,
Thanks! I was wondering if that was the case. It does have the oil button. I haven't checked out the P/C, but I might be able to get by with a set of rings.....
Yeah, I'll try that. Something to keep the crap out, until I can scrounge the right one...I tried a couple of pipe plugs, I had lying around, but they wouldn't work.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes. There is a screw out plug on the side of the carb that acts as the governor. If it is malfunctioning You can insert a small metal disk in the opening and replace the plug.
Cool 245. The plain 245's must not have been big sellers as I have not came across hardly any.
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Translation: They are nice saws, I only have two.
:hmm3grin2orange: Naw I don't have any plain 245's :hmm3grin2orange: Yet....
PLMCRZY
Addicted to ArboristSite
Im about an hour away from Austin. I live in the hill country.
Tuning your saw
What techniques do you guys use for tuning a saw in wood? I can get 'em set, pretty well, sitting...but would like to know how to get 'em set while cutting........Also, does anyone have a video, where you can hear what a chain saw sounds like ,when 4 stroking?
What techniques do you guys use for tuning a saw in wood? I can get 'em set, pretty well, sitting...but would like to know how to get 'em set while cutting........Also, does anyone have a video, where you can hear what a chain saw sounds like ,when 4 stroking?
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Looks like a nice one. Grab it if its not a hassle . I'll take a chance on her for that price!
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
l
Boy, what a task. Brad Snelling did a video using a large Stihl. It shows the saw four stroking out of the cut and cleaning up in the cut. However finding it could be a hastle. Not sure the "search function" works that well any more.
Boy, what a task. Brad Snelling did a video using a large Stihl. It shows the saw four stroking out of the cut and cleaning up in the cut. However finding it could be a hastle. Not sure the "search function" works that well any more.
WillBrayJr
ArboristSite Guru
Since I got a Digital Camera I've taken several pics of Pedo-Killer. Would anybody help me with info on it???
zogger
Tree Freak
t WAAAAAAA
That "four stroke" sound, which I think is a regrettable name and description, sounds like it is missing a little, not running and firing on every up and down like a two stroke does when it is wide open. It's more lub dub dub pause dub dub pause. A burble. Once you give it full throttle and are cutting wood, under load, it smooths out, no missing sound, just rips, WAAAAAAAAAA. You shouldn't hear any misfire like sounds.
If it slows down noticeably in the cut, more carb adjust required, most likely richen the H screw, which is conterclockwise or out, or you got not sharp enough cutters, are bearing down-pushing-too hard, or the wood and saw are mismatched, ie.; saw too small for the wood. The saw does the work, you just steer the thing. It will pull itself down just swell in a bucking cut. Now felling is different as gravity doesn't work sideways, you have to help and push it there.
Quite frankly I have seen a lot of vids where the operator is trying to cut too fast (IMO), they bog the saw down excessively, even though the chain keeps turning.
I ran the cheapest possible used saws for years, and that I learned, let the saw do the work, or you will wear it out fast. Some guys got a ton of money, like owning dozens of saws, rebuilding them and "racing" them, or are making so much with their saws they don't care if they wear one out in one season, they will throw that expense at their taxes. They will lean in and push and ta heck with it slowing down a whole lot. Ya, you can cut that way, but I personally think it ages a saw a lot and it just won't last, too much stress, even on a "pro" saw.
Saws are built real dang delicate, even macho "muscle" saws. Everything is real thin and designed to be lightweight, so they can be carried all day and turn high rpms.. You can't have it both ways, strong versus light. It is always a compromise.
I don't have a tach so I will have to offer a generic guesstimate, but if the rpms drop more than 1500 or a couple thou in the cut, from a wide open throttle no load max setting, I think the saw is being over stressed. I believe the manufacturers are happy with more than that..but they are in the business of selling new expensive saws, too...just like truck manufacturers have commercials showing their hunka junks in situations like the gobi desert 1000..they love for you to beat on your ride and wear it out fast. Or nascar with those custom built high performance cars that "look" like some stock car you go buy off a lot. Ya, every dude needs four wheel drift on the way to work all the time....uh huh
advertising propaganda designed to separate you from the cash in your wallet.
I see the same crap in the farm magazines, man, it is bad there....
That "four stroke" sound, which I think is a regrettable name and description, sounds like it is missing a little, not running and firing on every up and down like a two stroke does when it is wide open. It's more lub dub dub pause dub dub pause. A burble. Once you give it full throttle and are cutting wood, under load, it smooths out, no missing sound, just rips, WAAAAAAAAAA. You shouldn't hear any misfire like sounds.
If it slows down noticeably in the cut, more carb adjust required, most likely richen the H screw, which is conterclockwise or out, or you got not sharp enough cutters, are bearing down-pushing-too hard, or the wood and saw are mismatched, ie.; saw too small for the wood. The saw does the work, you just steer the thing. It will pull itself down just swell in a bucking cut. Now felling is different as gravity doesn't work sideways, you have to help and push it there.
Quite frankly I have seen a lot of vids where the operator is trying to cut too fast (IMO), they bog the saw down excessively, even though the chain keeps turning.
I ran the cheapest possible used saws for years, and that I learned, let the saw do the work, or you will wear it out fast. Some guys got a ton of money, like owning dozens of saws, rebuilding them and "racing" them, or are making so much with their saws they don't care if they wear one out in one season, they will throw that expense at their taxes. They will lean in and push and ta heck with it slowing down a whole lot. Ya, you can cut that way, but I personally think it ages a saw a lot and it just won't last, too much stress, even on a "pro" saw.
Saws are built real dang delicate, even macho "muscle" saws. Everything is real thin and designed to be lightweight, so they can be carried all day and turn high rpms.. You can't have it both ways, strong versus light. It is always a compromise.
I don't have a tach so I will have to offer a generic guesstimate, but if the rpms drop more than 1500 or a couple thou in the cut, from a wide open throttle no load max setting, I think the saw is being over stressed. I believe the manufacturers are happy with more than that..but they are in the business of selling new expensive saws, too...just like truck manufacturers have commercials showing their hunka junks in situations like the gobi desert 1000..they love for you to beat on your ride and wear it out fast. Or nascar with those custom built high performance cars that "look" like some stock car you go buy off a lot. Ya, every dude needs four wheel drift on the way to work all the time....uh huh
advertising propaganda designed to separate you from the cash in your wallet.
I see the same crap in the farm magazines, man, it is bad there....
Here's a good thread on tuning for you, Hemi. Info in here by some of the old guys who aren't on here anymore. There's also a good one on here from Brad Snelling if I can find it.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/46721.htm
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