Whats the point of this revolation? Not quite comparring apples to apples are we?
Completely different eras and types of saws
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Whats the point of this revolation? Not quite comparring apples to apples are we?
Completely different eras and types of saws
Warped5
WingNut
10-10 as PORTLY?
Come on! The 10-10 is sturdy and athletic!
The 610/650 is PORTLY!
:hmm3grin2orange:
LOL, yes and as a matter of fact a 10-10 weighs exactly 1 LBS less,then a 3400
Warped5
WingNut
Mark - I got your PM .... I had my 10-10 out last Sunday and loved it! That old thump[thump-thump was terrific as compared to the screaming of the newer saws ...
I need to talk wifey into getting a digital bathroom scale.
I think I'll slide a sheet metal screw into the end of the tank vent line so it won't pee on me.
When I'm using a saw I don't notice one or two pounds difference. Maybe if I used one all day I might.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
That'll work if you cut the vent line at a 45 degree angle first.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
My Poulan Saws
Wow, 771 pages on Poulans! I have two - a 1999 Craftsman 358 18" that is basically a Wild Thing in more subdued colors, and a 20" 2775 Farmhand. The Craftsman was my first saw and I liked it for a while. It started easily and cut fast with a narrow kerf and was light, and I cut a fair amount of firewood with it. But in recent years the alcohol in the fuel has attacked the fuel filler cap, and it swells so you cannot get it out. Also the pull starter plastic bits are fragile. I've replaced the cap and starter parts a couple of times, but the new parts failed just the same way. Lately it is very hard starting, but runs well once it's going, and I haven't figured out why yet.
The 2775 was given to me when still mostly new because it never ran properly. I had to remove the limiter caps from the carb screws and then I could adjust it correctly. It ran well for a number of years, but it was always slow and under powered so I only used it when I had to. This year I needed the larger bar and in addition to being bog slow when buried in white oak, it's literally fallen apart in my hands. The screw for the spring under the handle backed out and got lost and later the main structural part of the handle broke. I fixed it and tried again. Then the shield behind the muffler fatigue failed, allowing hot exhaust gases to melt the chain brake and side cover. So I rebuilt it again, but last I tried I could not get it to hold a tune consistently and had to fiddle with it non-stop. I checked it out a bit before retiring it to a shelf and discovered that the fuel line had deteriorated and the filter fell off, so I'm sure that is probably it. It's gonna sit for a while before I get to it, because the Mac 3420 runs and cuts like nuts, and starts when I need it.
So in short I think these saws have some good points - they're light and narrow and simple, and they're easy on fuel, but not too sturdy. Parts are relatively cheap and readily available. But you need them.
Wow, 771 pages on Poulans! I have two - a 1999 Craftsman 358 18" that is basically a Wild Thing in more subdued colors, and a 20" 2775 Farmhand. The Craftsman was my first saw and I liked it for a while. It started easily and cut fast with a narrow kerf and was light, and I cut a fair amount of firewood with it. But in recent years the alcohol in the fuel has attacked the fuel filler cap, and it swells so you cannot get it out. Also the pull starter plastic bits are fragile. I've replaced the cap and starter parts a couple of times, but the new parts failed just the same way. Lately it is very hard starting, but runs well once it's going, and I haven't figured out why yet.
The 2775 was given to me when still mostly new because it never ran properly. I had to remove the limiter caps from the carb screws and then I could adjust it correctly. It ran well for a number of years, but it was always slow and under powered so I only used it when I had to. This year I needed the larger bar and in addition to being bog slow when buried in white oak, it's literally fallen apart in my hands. The screw for the spring under the handle backed out and got lost and later the main structural part of the handle broke. I fixed it and tried again. Then the shield behind the muffler fatigue failed, allowing hot exhaust gases to melt the chain brake and side cover. So I rebuilt it again, but last I tried I could not get it to hold a tune consistently and had to fiddle with it non-stop. I checked it out a bit before retiring it to a shelf and discovered that the fuel line had deteriorated and the filter fell off, so I'm sure that is probably it. It's gonna sit for a while before I get to it, because the Mac 3420 runs and cuts like nuts, and starts when I need it.
So in short I think these saws have some good points - they're light and narrow and simple, and they're easy on fuel, but not too sturdy. Parts are relatively cheap and readily available. But you need them.
WHW, welcome to the Poulan thread. Sorry to hear you're having so much trouble with your saws. In all fairness, the Poulan brand name was built on saws that were built some earlier than yours. You need to have one that is a split case design to start to judge the quality but even better drop back to the mid 1970's into the 1980's for some of the best. The model 3400, 3700 and 4000 saws were some of the best mid size saws ever built by anyone although a bit heavy by today's standards. Try to get hold of one of these and you'll retire that Mac to the shelf.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
67 Mustang - Thanks! Like so many things the older stuff is better, or at least it suits me better. I'll be keeping my eye out for older saws, including Poulans. I don't really dislike the Poulans I have, they're fairly simple honest machines, just frustrated with them.
Now I have to go down in the basement and install a hot water heater - a beautiful day and I could be up in the woods, but I have to do my time sweating pipes and running wires in there. Sigh.
Now I have to go down in the basement and install a hot water heater - a beautiful day and I could be up in the woods, but I have to do my time sweating pipes and running wires in there. Sigh.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
WildThing 4018
I'm about ready to throw this saw in the trash, but I too ornery to let it get the best of me. Saw will not accelerate smoothly as it dies when the upper throttle plate opens up. If I throttle is up slowly it will rev but a wot it hesistates and rpm's fluctuate. I even purchased a new Zama CIM carb thinking that was the cause. New fuel lines, filter, plug etc. I'm wondering if there is an air leak in the seals or clamshell motor. Adjustment of the Lo and Hi needles is unusual as I have to open the Lo needle at least 2 1/2 turns for it even to idle. Anyone have any experience with this model WildThing? The one Brad sent me, which is highly modified, idles and accelerates great. Super power. Same model saw. I may have to do a pressure and vacuum test but need to figure a way to block the upper throttle opening.
Bob
I'm about ready to throw this saw in the trash, but I too ornery to let it get the best of me. Saw will not accelerate smoothly as it dies when the upper throttle plate opens up. If I throttle is up slowly it will rev but a wot it hesistates and rpm's fluctuate. I even purchased a new Zama CIM carb thinking that was the cause. New fuel lines, filter, plug etc. I'm wondering if there is an air leak in the seals or clamshell motor. Adjustment of the Lo and Hi needles is unusual as I have to open the Lo needle at least 2 1/2 turns for it even to idle. Anyone have any experience with this model WildThing? The one Brad sent me, which is highly modified, idles and accelerates great. Super power. Same model saw. I may have to do a pressure and vacuum test but need to figure a way to block the upper throttle opening.
Bob
In the last year or so I've learned that there are certain model saws to stay away from, I really don't have much to do with the later model poulan saws. I do understand orneriness...just exercised it on a Stihl 032, decided it wasn't going to get the better of me. I guess that really wasn't much help though.
Warped5
WingNut
Now I'm totally confused. Easily done on a day like today ....
Why are you installing a gizmo to heat water that is already hot?
:msp_confused:
(This is why they pay me the big $$)
StinkyBunny
ArboristSite Operative
Never had an issue with my 2900 and I run her hard and put her away wet all the time. The more abuse I give that saw, the better it runs. I've probably got 40 cords of wood cut with that saw, never a down day in her life. I did some maintenance this spring, first since I bought it.
Flintknapper
ArboristSite Operative
Wouldn't "hot" water already be heated?
Just kidding, welcome to the forum!
Flint.
homelitejim
Full of Scrap
I picked up this green jewel this weekend. As you can see it is a Poulan 245a. I got it tuned up really well on the bench but falls flat and dies in the cut, my question is do I need to tune it in the cut? The piston has some dark spots on the exhaust side but no scoring, the rings look good and has good felt compression. On the bench the saw Idles perfect and revs to WOT quickly running at a good even RPM. When I was checking it over I thought it may have a weak intermittent spark but seems to run fine on the bench. I did notice that the plug wire is right next to the muffler and and has some heat stress in the rubber. I will have to wait until it cools off a little before messing with it again as I get irritable in the heat. Any help in pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
I picked up this green jewel this weekend. As you can see it is a Poulan 245a. I got it tuned up really well on the bench but falls flat and dies in the cut, my question is do I need to tune it in the cut? The piston has some dark spots on the exhaust side but no scoring, the rings look good and has good felt compression. On the bench the saw Idles perfect and revs to WOT quickly running at a good even RPM. When I was checking it over I thought it may have a weak intermittent spark but seems to run fine on the bench. I did notice that the plug wire is right next to the muffler and and has some heat stress in the rubber. I will have to wait until it cools off a little before messing with it again as I get irritable in the heat. Any help in pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
It wouldn't hurt to try turning the H screw out a small amount, try about 1/4 turn to start and see if it changes anything. If it doesn't do too much try another 1/4 turn.
I picked up this green jewel this weekend. As you can see it is a Poulan 245a. I got it tuned up really well on the bench but falls flat and dies in the cut, my question is do I need to tune it in the cut? The piston has some dark spots on the exhaust side but no scoring, the rings look good and has good felt compression. On the bench the saw Idles perfect and revs to WOT quickly running at a good even RPM. When I was checking it over I thought it may have a weak intermittent spark but seems to run fine on the bench. I did notice that the plug wire is right next to the muffler and and has some heat stress in the rubber. I will have to wait until it cools off a little before messing with it again as I get irritable in the heat. Any help in pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.
Jim, now that is a nice find in my biased opinion! :msp_w00t:
Judging from the one screw tin muffler, that should be a electronic ign saw. Did you check the fuel line and filter in the tank?
Both the H and L screws should be very close to one and 1/4 turn out on that saw. If one or the other is much off from that, it is a sign of fuel system troubles or a air leak. The carb is also governored so you can only do the final setting of the H screw in the wood. Thats why I'm telling you that the screw should be at one turn out to start and will probably end up right about there as well.
Did you try a new plug to start with?
Those are very simple setups on those saws but the fuel lines need to be checked.
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Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Yeah, "hot water heater" is a pretty silly expression. Then again if you think too much about a lot of the things we say all the time you soon won't be able to say anything at all for fear of sounding stupid! Electric water heater is in, no more oil - now I just have to remove the old heater and drag the tank out. After I cut some more wood that is!
@StinkyBunny - Maybe my 2775 will run like that after I replace the fuel line. I've certainly been trying to give it a chance, but right now I have to get the job done and I cannot spend so much time working on the tools instead of using them.
@StinkyBunny - Maybe my 2775 will run like that after I replace the fuel line. I've certainly been trying to give it a chance, but right now I have to get the job done and I cannot spend so much time working on the tools instead of using them.
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