Nik's Poulan Thread

[blsnelling]

you all need to go to the Off-The-Topic forum and wish Mikey a happy bday!

Done

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Interesting to know.

the thing with boots..dang, it just ain't rocket surgery, if the manufacturers would give ya a big enough flange setup, they could also offer a double layer boot to fit it. Sorta like two seals. And there simply must be some better more advanced plastics for seals and fuel lines and so on out there. I bet it's something like ten bucks more and they could make all these new saws way more bullet proof.

My echo, even though it is toasted, has a very nice carb boot setup to it. It's MY fault it got toasted, not the construction. I trusted the stock EPA carb setting...live and learn...I trusted, and didn't verify, until too late..grumble....anyway...it has a good flange on one side and a locking inner and outer ring setup on the other where it meets the carb.

It's only a one ring piston though, I sorta prefer on general principles two rings, but I can understand why some saw companies use one. I just think two rings keeps the piston centered and aligned in the cylinder better during extreme use, and would be more forgiving of (moderate) lean situations, etc

Whenever I rebuild it, I would love to really look at the piston and run it by someone who knows better than me about them and see if it could be machined to take two rings and still function properly, etc.

Funny about pistons...I had a Craftsman 2.1 with a bad piston, I just took some sandpaper and went around the piston several times until it was fairly smooth, did the same to the cylinder, put rings in it and away it went! That was around 20 years ago and the saw still has compression and runs to this day!

 

[rms61moparman]

Funny about pistons...I had a Craftsman 2.1 with a bad piston, I just took some sandpaper and went around the piston several times until it was fairly smooth, did the same to the cylinder, put rings in it and away it went! That was around 20 years ago and the saw still has compression and runs to this day!

I've been trying to tell these folks that very thing!


Mike

 

[Snyper438]

245A carb

Ok, diaphrams gave out a little while back, made some that worked ok but saw would periodically overload on fuel and didn't like running below half a tank. Figured it was the homemade diaphrams. Got new carb kit and rebuilt carb yesterday, still doing same thing. Full tank, will run great but looks like carb is allowing fuel to drain through, pulled air cleaner and had fuel in housing.. Half tank, bogs down and shuts off. Refill and let set for a few, restarts and runs great till hitting half a tank again. Fuel lines are good, all gaskets in correct places, fuel drips out of carb intake. did same thing with "homemade" kit.

Any ideas what i missed?

Thanks,
Ed

 

[promac850]

I've been trying to tell these folks that very thing!


Mike

So would my neat Poulan respond well to that kind of treatment? If you haven't seen the pics of the scoring damage yet, they're back a few pages.

Also, anyone have any good replacements for the intake boot that is on the saw I mention, as well as the Craftsman/Poulan I recently picked up? I would like to either put a better intake boot together that won't ever leak, or find an aftermarket replacement to put in the saws.

I don't want to burn these two saws up.

 

[edisto]

Ok, diaphrams gave out a little while back, made some that worked ok but saw would periodically overload on fuel and didn't like running below half a tank. Figured it was the homemade diaphrams. Got new carb kit and rebuilt carb yesterday, still doing same thing. Full tank, will run great but looks like carb is allowing fuel to drain through, pulled air cleaner and had fuel in housing.. Half tank, bogs down and shuts off. Refill and let set for a few, restarts and runs great till hitting half a tank again. Fuel lines are good, all gaskets in correct places, fuel drips out of carb intake. did same thing with "homemade" kit.

Any ideas what i missed?

Thanks,
Ed

Sounds like 2 different problems to me, but only because I can't think of one issue that would cause both symptoms.

The excessive fuel could be due to incorrectly adjusted inlet needle travel, and the half-tank shutdown could be a tank vent issue.

Next time it shuts off at a half tank, crack the fuel cap (listen for a sucking sound), then screw it back down and see if the saw will restart.

 

[edisto]

Got the 71A today!

I walked into the office and the department chair pointed to a box and said "your chainsaw is here!"

I guess they are on to me...

Seems to have great compression, and she's all there. The first thing that struck me about that saw is how light it is (relative to the other, older 5+ cube saws I've been stockpiling).

I was expecting a little more weight with aluminum construction.

 

[Teddy.Scout]

Hey guys,
Figured if any O e knows it's you guys!

Are all Poulan Pro 655's boost ported?

I read back awhile ago were there were black covered ones and gray ones.
Would that be a good indication. Thanks guys!

 

[Snyper438]

Sounds like 2 different problems to me, but only because I can't think of one issue that would cause both symptoms.

The excessive fuel could be due to incorrectly adjusted inlet needle travel, and the half-tank shutdown could be a tank vent issue.

Next time it shuts off at a half tank, crack the fuel cap (listen for a sucking sound), then screw it back down and see if the saw will restart.

By what i could find, inlet needle is set correctly. (Admittedly not an expert by any means) Fuel tank vent is good, no vacuum build up at all in tank. Wondering if possibly a compression issue, other than carb kit, saw is all original.

 

[rms61moparman]

So would my neat Poulan respond well to that kind of treatment? If you haven't seen the pics of the scoring damage yet, they're back a few pages.

Also, anyone have any good replacements for the intake boot that is on the saw I mention, as well as the Craftsman/Poulan I recently picked up? I would like to either put a better intake boot together that won't ever leak, or find an aftermarket replacement to put in the saws.

I don't want to burn these two saws up.

That piston would have to be cleaned up and fitted to the cylinder, or mic'ed to make sure too much material wasn't removed during the cleanup. You have to make sure it won't be slopping around in the cylinder and there is really no way to tell until after you clean it up!
There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with the stock intake boot!
They are as good as any. Just check it every once in a while and it will be fine.
If you are having trouble finding one PM me and I will attempt to point you in the right direction.


Mike

 

[rms61moparman]

Hey guys,
Figured if any O e knows it's you guys!

Are all Poulan Pro 655's boost ported?

I read back awhile ago were there were black covered ones and gray ones.
Would that be a good indication. Thanks guys!

No they are not!
There was a 655 and a 655BP.
Don't let that sweat you any though.
From what I've heard there was very little difference in the power of the saws.
Collector value is a little higher on the 655BP.
Not sure about the covers.

Mike

 

[edisto]

By what i could find, inlet needle is set correctly. (Admittedly not an expert by any means) Fuel tank vent is good, no vacuum build up at all in tank. Wondering if possibly a compression issue, other than carb kit, saw is all original.

How did you set the inlet needle?

If it is new, and set, and the diaphragm is new, and the lines are all good, and the carb is tuned...I'm stumped.

A hole in the fuel line could allow the saw to run as long as the hole was covered with fuel, but you said the saw bogged before dying, and a hole should cause a lean run (I about wet myself every time I run a tank dry).

Are the reed valves OK? If they weren't functioning properly, the charge can back up into the carb, and the case pressure won't get as high. Seems like a stretch, but maybe with lower case compression, the pump could only pull enough fuel when the tank is above half full.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

opcorn:

 

[Snyper438]

How did you set the inlet needle?

If it is new, and set, and the diaphragm is new, and the lines are all good, and the carb is tuned...I'm stumped.

A hole in the fuel line could allow the saw to run as long as the hole was covered with fuel, but you said the saw bogged before dying, and a hole should cause a lean run (I about wet myself every time I run a tank dry).

Are the reed valves OK? If they weren't functioning properly, the charge can back up into the carb, and the case pressure won't get as high. Seems like a stretch, but maybe with lower case compression, the pump could only pull enough fuel when the tank is above half full.

Per the Tillotson rebuild guide, set intlet needle lever to be flush with housing with spring in correct position (i.e. seated on the dimple on the lever). Unless i possibly moved the diaphragm enough in three seperate times of putting it together to unseat the lever from the diaphragm tab, compression is all i can think of. Will check again, never know. Just glad i'm not the only one scratching my head on this.

Ed

 

[Teddy.Scout]

That piston would have to be cleaned up and fitted to the cylinder, or mic'ed to make sure too much material wasn't removed during the cleanup. You have to make sure it won't be slopping around in the cylinder and there is really no way to tell until after you clean it up!
There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with the stock intake boot!
They are as good as any. Just check it every once in a while and it will be fine.
If you are having trouble finding one PM me and I will attempt to point you in the right direction.


Mike

Thanks Mike!
From what I read, the only way to tell is from the inside of the cylinder?

Hope I am able to get to it!
Been On the road and working to much for any man!!
I feel with with drawls from my shop!!!
If I am lucky this will be my first style Poulan not counting the old sand casts!!
Watching you guys on my IPhone sucks!!
Like eating candy in front Of a kid and not sharing!! LOL!

 

[edisto]

Per the Tillotson rebuild guide, set intlet needle lever to be flush with housing with spring in correct position (i.e. seated on the dimple on the lever). Unless i possibly moved the diaphragm enough in three seperate times of putting it together to unseat the lever from the diaphragm tab, compression is all i can think of. Will check again, never know. Just glad i'm not the only one scratching my head on this.

Ed

Don't be too comforted...it doesn't take much to confuse me.

 

[zogger]

Got it! My first grampaw saw! 245A

Went and looked at the saw today and bought it. Had fresh mix with me and fired it up after a few yanks. Choke out, a few slow pulls, throttle lock then, give it a yank, popped, push choke in, vroom! LaBomba! Now this reminds me a *lot* of the saws I was using way back in the day helping the firewood folks. Haven't torn it down yet or nuthin, but tell ya, by the state of the decals and the low amount of wear on the bottom and the paint, it looks not used a lot. Not quite pristine new, but sorta close. Both the automatic and manual oiler work fine, the manual really shoots some good streams fast. It actually starts throwing way faster than my much newer little husky. It has a 16 on it now, I think I might be able to scrounge up a longer bar, what would be good, a 20 or even a 24? Or what is max without being stupid? It's a regular 3/8ths chain on it, a little dull but a lot of life left. Be funny if it was the original chain...

I ran outta camera! My cellphone cam has been socking away pics from last year to today and it got filled up after three pics, so that's all I got right now. Have to go through and check what I want to keep and delete the rest, most are saved already anyway..

I'll have to clean it up a little and do the chain (really it is not that bad at all, the saw is overall much cleaner than I expected, looks like you could grab it as is and go to work) and try it out. Only two things I have found wrong with it, one of the vanes on the starter side cover is broke out, and the on off switch doesn't turn it off, had to choke it to stop it. Revs good, idle is a little high but until I rinse it out and clean it and give it a once over visual and try fresh mix again I won't touch the carb settings.

And ya know what? It doesn't feel much different at all weight wise from the 55 rancher or the echo 600p, not to my hands anyway. Those are the only two saws I have to compare it to in that mid range class (Ha! and this one runs and those don't). You guys who have them, how would you say this saw compares to a more modern 70 cc pro class saw, actually doing some work? It sure seems to rev as fast as my newer saws. And you can feel the torque more from the solid no AV construction.Compression just by feel is acceptable, it drop started easy, not as hard as I expected.

 

[rms61moparman]

Went and looked at the saw today and bought it. Had fresh mix with me and fired it up after a few yanks. Choke out, a few slow pulls, throttle lock then, give it a yank, popped, push choke in, vroom! LaBomba! Now this reminds me a *lot* of the saws I was using way back in the day helping the firewood folks. Haven't torn it down yet or nuthin, but tell ya, by the state of the decals and the low amount of wear on the bottom and the paint, it looks not used a lot. Not quite pristine new, but sorta close. Both the automatic and manual oiler work fine, the manual really shoots some good streams fast. It actually starts throwing way faster than my much newer little husky. It has a 16 on it now, I think I might be able to scrounge up a longer bar, what would be good, a 20 or even a 24? Or what is max without being stupid? It's a regular 3/8ths chain on it, a little dull but a lot of life left. Be funny if it was the original chain...

I ran outta camera! My cellphone cam has been socking away pics from last year to today and it got filled up after three pics, so that's all I got right now. Have to go through and check what I want to keep and delete the rest, most are saved already anyway..

I'll have to clean it up a little and do the chain (really it is not that bad at all, the saw is overall much cleaner than I expected, looks like you could grab it as is and go to work) and try it out. Only two things I have found wrong with it, one of the vanes on the starter side cover is broke out, and the on off switch doesn't turn it off, had to choke it to stop it. Revs good, idle is a little high but until I rinse it out and clean it and give it a once over visual and try fresh mix again I won't touch the carb settings.

And ya know what? It doesn't feel much different at all weight wise from the 55 rancher or the echo 600p, not to my hands anyway. Those are the only two saws I have to compare it to in that mid range class (Ha! and this one runs and those don't). You guys who have them, how would you say this saw compares to a more modern 70 cc pro class saw, actually doing some work? It sure seems to rev as fast as my newer saws. And you can feel the torque more from the solid no AV construction.Compression just by feel is acceptable, it drop started easy, not as hard as I expected.

They are are REAL good saw.
Not quite as fast as the modern saws, but I contend that the skill of the sawyer is more important to how much wood goes on the truck than the speed of the saw.
A decent sawyer with a good running 245 will put more wood on the ground than about any two people can get into the truck.
The 245 is a torque monster with a 20" bar buried and will pull a 28" very well.
Personally I would go with a 20" or 24" on it, depending on what your cutting needs are.
Just about anything in this area, I can cut with a 20" and if I need to go bigger, I just go BIGGER!!!
If a 20" will handle all of your cutting needs there is no benefit in spending the extra money for a longer bar and chain.

I've been looking for a real clean one that isn't too high but haven't found the right deal YET!
Congrats on a great saw deal!

Mike

 

[promac850]

That piston would have to be cleaned up and fitted to the cylinder, or mic'ed to make sure too much material wasn't removed during the cleanup. You have to make sure it won't be slopping around in the cylinder and there is really no way to tell until after you clean it up!
There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with the stock intake boot!
They are as good as any. Just check it every once in a while and it will be fine.
If you are having trouble finding one PM me and I will attempt to point you in the right direction.


Mike

Umm... did I mention the Poulan with that scored cylinder died because of the boot tearing off at the cylinder clamp? How common is it for it to randomly fail in such a way on this saw?

So if I worked on the piston and cylinder, made the measurements, and the piston to cylinder clearance is more than say, .004" or so, it's time to look for a new piston?

 

[rms61moparman]

Umm... did I mention the Poulan with that scored cylinder died because of the boot tearing off at the cylinder clamp? How common is it for it to randomly fail in such a way on this saw?

So if I worked on the piston and cylinder, made the measurements, and the piston to cylinder clearance is more than say, .004" or so, it's time to look for a new piston?

Did I mention............Yes you did!
How common............Very, if you don't inspect your saw occasionally to make sure it is in good condition, just like MANY other saws. Also more prone to failure if you use your saw for an axe.
So if I worked............Yes. That would be correct.


Mike