Happy birthday Gregg!:bday:
Nik's Poulan Thread
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I have a parts saw that may have a good cylinder if this one is worn out. Funny thing was, I had it running earlier today and it seemed like it had compression. It was a little hard to start though. I wonder if it might have broken a ring?
I forgot to mention...when I got this saw the engine was stuck, I put several squirts of WD in the engine and worked with it with the sparkplug out and finally it broke loose. It really didn't look too bad inside. The previous owner had several saws with stuck engines...he must have stored them in his swimming pool!
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Mark I think I blocked the gov off right, I used a piece of tin foil, however, I lost the little gasket, I didn't think it made a difference because I was blocking it off???
I'm gonna change the filter for new one.
I did get the RK-23HS kit, and I set the lever flush with the inside of the carb body.
As for the fuel line it's been a pain from the begining, (remember somone drilled the hole too big) I had to use even larger then 5/16 to seal the hole up, then use the 5/16 stuffed inside, then in the tank I ran a piece of 1/8 up to the 5/16 line, it's complicated.......
Nardoo
Addicted to ArboristSite
A big happy birthday Gregg, from (far) south of the border.:msp_smile:
Al.
Al.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Chain Saw Collectors Corner - Gasoline Chain Saws by Manufacturer
You'll notice that there are five Poulan listings. The photos of the Poulan top-handles saws can add to the confusion (well, for me
).Maybe one of the Poulan guys would be kind enough to post a list of which Poulan top-handle saws (S25, SD25, XXV, etc.) are what CC.
Chris J.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Chain Saw Collectors Corner - Gasoline Chain Saws by Manufacturer
You'll notice that there are five Poulan listings. The photos of the Poulan top-handles saws can add to the confusion (well, for me
Maybe one of the Poulan guys would be kind enough to post a list of which Poulan top-handle saws (S25, SD25, XXV, etc.) are what CC.
Chris J.
The edit function isn't working me :bang:.
To further muddy the water you have the same saws sold as various Sears Craftsman models, as well as quire a few other brands & models.
Chain Saw Collectors Corner - Gasoline Chain Saws by Manufacturer
You'll notice that there are five Poulan listings. The photos of the Poulan top-handles saws can add to the confusion (well, for me
Maybe one of the Poulan guys would be kind enough to post a list of which Poulan top-handle saws (S25, SD25, XXV, etc.) are what CC.
Chris J.
Chris I'm posting from my phone right now so I have no documents from me ,and I get confused on this myself , so let's make it easy right now and just list them by cubic inches .
The micros and there later incarnations were either 1.8, 2.0 or 2.3 CI displacement. The original micros were 2.0CI which was 31cc if I remember right.
The 25 series saws were originaly 2.1 CI or 33cc and the later S25's were 2.3 CI or 38cc.
Does this help?
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Chris I'm posting from my phone right now so I have no documents from me ,and I get confused on this myself , so let's make it easy right now and just list them by cubic inches .
The micros and there later incarnations were either 1.8, 2.0 or 2.3 CI displacement. The original micros were 2.0CI which was 31cc if I remember right.
The 25 series saws were originaly 2.1 CI or 33cc and the later S25's were 2.3 CI or 38cc.
Does this help?[/QUOTE]
It helps to further confuse me
.
I know the 2.3/38cc ones are the more desireable saws judging by what I read here on AS. If figuring which Poulan/Craftsman/Etc. is what CC confuses you, Mark, just think what it does to the rest of us.
I said that wrong , the saws do not confuse me, the cubic inch to cubic centimeters part confuses me . seems I have more important things to remember.
Cubic Inch to CC Conversion
1 cubic inch = 16.387064 cc
Poulan 1800 = 1.8 (cubic inches) = 29.4967152 cc - rounded to 29 cc's
Poulan XX (20) = 1.9 (cubic inches) = 31.1354216 cc - rounded to 31 cc's
Poulan 2000, Craftsman 2.0 = 2.0 (cubic inches) = 32.774128 cc - rounded to 33 cc's
Poulan 25D = 2.1 (cubic inches) = 34.4128344 cc - rounded to 34 cc's
Poulan 2300, Craftsman 2.3 = 2.3 (cubic inches) = 37.6902472 cc - rounded to 38 cc's
I didn't include all the possible models but you get the idea. If you need to convert anymore desplacements, simply put the displacement you know into Google search followed by "in" and the unit you desire ex., "2.1 cubic inches in cc". The above examples are how I was taught to round things and not intended to get into a pissing match with what Acres says or what someone else says. If the saw's original displacement is 2.0 c.i. then in my mind the displacement in cc's is simply academic and for comparison only.
To say a saw is more desirable because of the size of displacement is to assume that size is the only thing that matters and disregards how the saw might have been rebadged or how rare it is. For example I've been trying to find a nice Jonsereds Lil Jon (Poulan 25DA) and have not found one yet. As another example the Allis Chalmers saw is another highly desirable saw and the going price on eBay will attest to that.
1 cubic inch = 16.387064 cc
Poulan 1800 = 1.8 (cubic inches) = 29.4967152 cc - rounded to 29 cc's
Poulan XX (20) = 1.9 (cubic inches) = 31.1354216 cc - rounded to 31 cc's
Poulan 2000, Craftsman 2.0 = 2.0 (cubic inches) = 32.774128 cc - rounded to 33 cc's
Poulan 25D = 2.1 (cubic inches) = 34.4128344 cc - rounded to 34 cc's
Poulan 2300, Craftsman 2.3 = 2.3 (cubic inches) = 37.6902472 cc - rounded to 38 cc's
I didn't include all the possible models but you get the idea. If you need to convert anymore desplacements, simply put the displacement you know into Google search followed by "in" and the unit you desire ex., "2.1 cubic inches in cc". The above examples are how I was taught to round things and not intended to get into a pissing match with what Acres says or what someone else says. If the saw's original displacement is 2.0 c.i. then in my mind the displacement in cc's is simply academic and for comparison only.
To say a saw is more desirable because of the size of displacement is to assume that size is the only thing that matters and disregards how the saw might have been rebadged or how rare it is. For example I've been trying to find a nice Jonsereds Lil Jon (Poulan 25DA) and have not found one yet. As another example the Allis Chalmers saw is another highly desirable saw and the going price on eBay will attest to that.
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[It helps to further confuse me
I know the 2.3/38cc ones are the more desireable saws judging by what I read here on AS. If figuring which Poulan/Craftsman/Etc. is what CC confuses you, Mark, just think what it does to the rest of us.
Believe it or not, I have a few of the 2.0 versions, and for a "33cc" saw they have plenty of power. My dad bought and owned his Craftsman 2.0 in 79 new and used that saw for 25 years to cut everything he had including firewood, and he did it with the stocker Oregon powersharp chains. He never did like using the powersharp stone as he said he felt it just dulled the chain more. However my pop is to the book, if it said a certain chain and oil mix he did it exactly. In fact he used to buy the 8 pack mix oil from Sears all the time.
Last year I rebuilt that saw for him, got him a 16" pro91 bar and vxl chain, and I will saw that saw will hold it's even when buried in 16"+ hardwood. He told me to keep it, so I gave him a basically brand new early 80s Poulan 2000.
Just to add a little bit to this, at that time McCulloch, and Homelite both had small top handles in the 32-33cc range too, but the Poulan version not only being cheaper, I felt had more power, and were a ton easier to work on if you had to. I actually have a Mac 320, to me it's a POS and PITA to dissasemble and work on, my neighbour has an 80s Homelite XL, that saw seems like a toy me, and is way underpowered.
8433jeff
Aftermarket connoisseur
Make sure the filter is big enough to do the job. Sometimes, rarely, but it happens, you find a filter from a little saw on a bigger ci saw and things can go awry quickly from there. There is a reason one size does not fit all. Could also be the fuel line is restricting fuel, sometimes making it work and it working right are independent and separate issues. It may be that you will have to use a bulkhead fitting to go past the "fix" the previous "mechanic" used. Or close that one off and drill the right size.
I have one of those confusing Dayton saws of the Poulan 25 genre on my bench right now. Got spark and good compression I think and when I put a little fuel in it it won't hit a lick. Checked the flywheel key, it's ok. I'm not about to give up because I had a Homelite XL that did the same thing. I opened up the fuel screw (there's only one) about a half turn and it took right off. I'll try again later on the Dayton.
nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks for all the info guys! I really appreciate it. It looks like I am going to end up with a XXV parts saw on ebay. Joe and I have been in communication about me purchasing one of his that is just missing a few parts, so hopefully we can make a deal and I can start collecting!
Nick
Nick
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Yeah. I have a PM320. Only reason I have it is because my Dad bought it new in 1981 or so. He picked it over the Poulan because of the chainbrake. That was the first saw I ran, and I used it quite a bit when doing clearing/cleanup jobs for dirt bike money as a teenager. Power was OK. The powersharp worked OK, but not great. Was good for touching it up when cutting brush. They are INDEED a PITA to work on. Mine's waiting for a fuel line replacement and carb kit. I'll get it back up and running just for sentimental reasons. I have a Homelite XL that a buddy here sent me as a surprise. I've worked on dozens of 'em over the last couple decades, but never owned one until he sent it to me in July or August. They're decent runners too, but still a PITA to work on and underpowered compared to the Poulan Micro saws. I'll keep this saw because a friend gave it to me, and my wife likes the damn thing because it's "cute" with it's little 10" bar.
The Micros are the only clamshell CASE (not.............I repeat NOT talking about a 'clamshell engine' like what's in many modern consumer saws..........so please don't try to correct me as I DO know what I'm talking about here) saws worth a damn in my opinion. That includes the various mini-macs, Homelite XL2/Super2 (and the damn 150), Frontier/Skil, and other saws put together with a 2 piece case 'shell' surrounding the engine (whether or not the engine has a removable cylinder, or is cast as a unit with a removable crancase bottom piece). The Micro's aren't too bad to work on, have good power, and can take quite a beating. The only 'weak spot' is the 27 yard long fuel line that runs from the tank to the carb and an oiler check valve that seems to be getting harder to obtain. Neither issue is a big deal at all really.
I'm running the Walbro 125-528 filter, it's a rather large filter.:msp_unsure:
Check compression with a gauge if you got one, I had one that did the same thing with adding fuel and all, at that point I didn't care so I sprayed Either in it, and she still wouldn't pop. Put a gauge on it, 75 PSI. Pulled the jug, the ring was stuck, freed it, reassembled, she started immediatly.
Speaking or which, if the mail would have run today, I might have recieved a Allis Chalmers 75A!
Maybe tomorrow or Monday.
Speaking or which, if the mail would have run today, I might have recieved a Allis Chalmers 75A!
Maybe tomorrow or Monday.
You & Mike came instantly to mind when I mentioned that one. :msp_biggrin:
