Thats hard to believe.
Good to know someone is thinking of me. To be thought of at the same time as Mike is just iceing on the cake.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
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Thats hard to believe.
Good to know someone is thinking of me. To be thought of at the same time as Mike is just iceing on the cake.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thats hard to believe.
Good to know someone is thinking of me. To be thought of at the same time as Mike is just iceing on the cake.
You MUST be wanting something!:hmm3grin2orange:
It wouldn't be my little Allis Chalmers saw would it???
Mike
98k15004x4
ArboristSite Lurker
Hey everyone, awesome site you got here and what a good group of guys, lots of chainsaw knowledge to be absorbed here lol. So i'm a newbie to the forum and the chainsaw world, but i got a thing for older poulans and i recently picked up a 3400 green with the black handle not sure the year though for 20 bucks, cylinder is scorn, and it has no fuel lines. My question is 1 does any one have a cylinder/piston for this saw 2. the gas tank has to holes in the top of it, one must go to the carb and one is a vent? does the vent just come out and go nowhere and do i need to run a filter on the gas line. Thanks again guys for any and all help!!!
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
First of all...Welcome to the site and especially to the Poulan thread and group.
Everyone has a piston and cylinder for your Poulan but they aren't the easiest saw to ressurect by any means.
Heat, patience and extreme care must be used to keep from trashing the new piston during installation.
The vent just terminates there in the case.
There are several methods of plugging the vent line but the #10 screw inserted in the end works well.
Mike
nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
Welcome! I'm absolutely no help but these guys are geniuses on here. I've ended up with 2 new saws in the last 24 hours and may have a third in the next few days. It's a damn sickness, but it's fun to have.
Nick
Dave, you're probably right about the ring. In fact, when I bought the saw the engine was stuck. I used about a half can of some off brand penetrating oil in it and let it sit for several days before I could even turn the engine over. It still feels kinda halfway stuck when I pull the starter rope but it's getting there slowly. I just bought a compression gauge but was gonna wait a little while before using it on this saw until it loosens up a bit. This saw actually feels like it has good compression, unlike the Micro I was working on which I had to order a ring for, it only had 60 psi.
paulyb21
ArboristSite Operative
bar bolt hole
Hi guys I was eagerly looking forward to getting the Sachs dolmar HD 104(s25cva) operational. but ran into a snag.
The bar bolt hole is stripped out. May need to find a machinist to put in some sort of insert? perhaps,
Anyways here is a pic of the chainbrake bar shoulder bolt and the stripped hole. Any ideas? putting in a larger stud, would interfere with going through the bar slot ...unless I turned it down on a lathe, which I don't have...and I would have to lose the brake handle...
Thanks Paul
View attachment 206790
Hi guys I was eagerly looking forward to getting the Sachs dolmar HD 104(s25cva) operational. but ran into a snag.
The bar bolt hole is stripped out. May need to find a machinist to put in some sort of insert? perhaps,
Anyways here is a pic of the chainbrake bar shoulder bolt and the stripped hole. Any ideas? putting in a larger stud, would interfere with going through the bar slot ...unless I turned it down on a lathe, which I don't have...and I would have to lose the brake handle...
Thanks Paul
View attachment 206790
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nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
Drill it out and install a threaded insert? Like a heli-coil maybe?
Nick
Nick
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hi guys I was eagerly looking forward to getting the Sachs dolmar HD 104(s25cva) operational. but ran into a snag.
The bar bolt hole is stripped out. May need to find a machinist to put in some sort of insert? perhaps,
Anyways here is a pic of the chainbrake bar shoulder bolt and the stripped hole. Any ideas? putting in a larger stud, would interfere with going through the bar slot ...unless I turned it down on a lathe, which I don't have...and I would have to lose the brake handle...
Thanks Paul
View attachment 206790
Almost all decent auto parts stores sell an insert that is perfect for that.
Be sure to get the one with the 4 locking pins that you have to set after you get it installed.
Mike
paulyb21
ArboristSite Operative
Mike , Nick I will see what the local guys have. Wasn't sure if there was enough "meat" in the metal there to drill it out...I will ask them about the one with the "the 4 locking pins that you have to set"
Thanks, Paul
Thanks, Paul
nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
Good luck Paul. It shouldn't be too bad. Obviously you will need a new bolt though. Let us know how it goes.
Nick
Nick
Hi guys I was eagerly looking forward to getting the Sachs dolmar HD 104(s25cva) operational. but ran into a snag.
The bar bolt hole is stripped out. May need to find a machinist to put in some sort of insert? perhaps,
Anyways here is a pic of the chainbrake bar shoulder bolt and the stripped hole. Any ideas? putting in a larger stud, would interfere with going through the bar slot ...unless I turned it down on a lathe, which I don't have...and I would have to lose the brake handle...
Thanks Paul
View attachment 206790
I have a S25DA that I had to make the same repair on. What I did was drill it out installed a helicoil, and then put a long set screw ( set in with jb weld) and I now use a regular bar nut setup on that little saw. Works great
That would probably work. I'd use a little lock-tite on the insert or heli-coil and not put the stud in there for a little while.
Well, I put the compression tester on the Dayton 25 type saw I bought last week and it appears to be around 50 psi. Guess I've got another stuck ring on my hands. Good thing these saws are easy to work on. I'll wait till I tear it down to see what all I need before I order anything. Too bad, this saw appeared to have good compression just by pulling the rope, but I couldn't get it to run at all. The 2z463 still is stuck. Good thing I paid low dollar for these!
I think the Dayton is a 2z573 but I could be wrong. Looks just like my Poulan XXV.
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98k15004x4
ArboristSite Lurker
any one out there looking to sell a piston and cylinder for a 3400? and what kind of "heat" is needed to replace the piston and cylinder. Im an auto tech by trade and ive built alot of motors never used heat to get a piston and cylinder on though.
little possum
Crash and Burn
Shouldnt need any heat. Maybe a small set of ring compressors if you happen to have the right size. If not a soda can, can be used. Or a zip tie around the rings. Or other means of pushing the rings in. Ive even used my finger nails.
And maybe a set of picks to help get in the circi clips
And maybe a set of picks to help get in the circi clips
The 3400, 3700 & 4000 do not use clips on the piston pin, like a lot of other saws. They are a pressed fit. There is a special tool for the job, but good luck finding one of those. Can make one up if your real handy. I have used a combination of c-clamp, a pin and blocks of wood. LOL But is much easier with the proper tool.
Gregg,
Here is a pic of the tool and one I tried to make. At least give ya an idea what you need to come up with.
Gregg,
Gregg,
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is a pic of the tool and one I tried to make. At least give ya an idea what you need to come up with.
Gregg,
Yea ive tried a variety of ways. Ended up using a couple blocks pod wood t a drift and hammer.o support the rod. I then tap in pin witha hammer. Hardest part is lining up piston on the rod. May try heating piston next time to ease insertion.
Bob
Ease it? Every time my saw parts wind up in the oven or dishwasher, I wind up on the couch.
