Nik's Poulan Thread

[rms61moparman]

Then there will no longer be any need for an intake port. Just do a direct injection into the crank case for lubrication or if they can figure out how to lubricate the bottom end just do away with the transfer ports and inject straight into the cylinder. Modding a saw will consist of hooking up your lap top and changing the injection timing and amount of fuel. The only port will be the the exhaust. Tuned pipes will not matter.

How will you get the air in there???


Mike

 

[zogger]

How will you get the air in there???


Mike

picky, picky picky.. HAHAHAHAHA ya, you'd still need a place to get the air in. We're just kicking around ideas at this stage.

 

[OhioGregg]

How will you get the air in there???


Mike

Leaky seals maybe.:hmm3grin2orange:


Gregg,

 

[scottr]

Yesterday I worked on a Husqvarna 136. If the clowns at Huskavarnalon gave the breaks to the Wild Thing they did to the Husky side, such as air injection, some AV, an actual air filter, and a muffler with a side vent instead of the tiny back vents, complete with a tube that has factory holes on top and bottom, sized the way they should be, there would be few if any MS 170-180 sales for Stihl, and little orange saws would be an European novelty. Now they may cost all of twenty thirty dollars more, but WTH?
Or am I missing something?

The wildthing was a cheaper saw than the 136, no cylinder plating, no AV, cheaper air filter, cheaper muffler. If I remember correctly the 136 cost was $179.95 and the wildthing was $129.95.

 

[nick 55]

Intake valve with a plastic camshaft. And a tunnel ram intake manifold for high rpm power.

Nick

 

[zogger]

The wildthing was a cheaper saw than the 136, no cylinder plating, no AV, cheaper air filter, cheaper muffler. If I remember correctly the 136 cost was $179.95 and the wildthing was $129.95.

My 137 was $199 plus gov vig, at the dealers, and the tech did adjust it before it went out the door, then again later on, then one more time when I went in to scrounge a new bar and chain from his junk stash. One of the best deals I ever got on anything, that saw has been reliable beyond belief. I treated it like a 50 from day 1. Couldn't afford a 50 at the time, needed one, so that was it. Sharp chains rule.

 

[nick 55]

I just thought about something. Imagine if the first successful fuel injected saw is a Poulan. That would really make the Stihl fan boys hate these saws.

Nick

 

[StinkyBunny]

How will you get the air in there???


Mike

the air comes in thu the throttle body and goes into the crank case without any fuel in it, the fuel gets injected into the transfer ports just after the exhaust port has closed, this makes it burn as clean as a 4 stroke without a catalizer. Lube oil goes in thu the mains and up thru the hollow crankshaft to the rod bearing and small end. Oil consumption and emissions go way down and horsepower goes way up with perfect a/f ratio at all rpm's.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

This will only be available on consumer grade Poulans....the quantity they sell will justify the expense of development...and keep the unit cost very low. Expensive low production pro saws will have to do without.

I was gonna say we could put a big assed turbo on it, but I remembered we need to oil the turbo. Damn it!!

 

[rms61moparman]

Then there will no longer be any need for an intake port. Just do a direct injection into the crank case for lubrication or if they can figure out how to lubricate the bottom end just do away with the transfer ports and inject straight into the cylinder. Modding a saw will consist of hooking up your lap top and changing the injection timing and amount of fuel. The only port will be the the exhaust. Tuned pipes will not matter.

the air comes in thu the throttle body and goes into the crank case without any fuel in it, the fuel gets injected into the transfer ports just after the exhaust port has closed, this makes it burn as clean as a 4 stroke without a catalizer. Lube oil goes in thu the mains and up thru the hollow crankshaft to the rod bearing and small end. Oil consumption and emissions go way down and horsepower goes way up with perfect a/f ratio at all rpm's.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

This will only be available on consumer grade Poulans....the quantity they sell will justify the expense of development...and keep the unit cost very low. Expensive low production pro saws will have to do without.

NOPE!!!

He got rid of the transfer ports in the 3rd line!


Mike

 

[rms61moparman]

Well it was the third line when I quoted it!!!LOL
Maybe the second line.


Mike

 

[3000 FPS]

How will you get the air in there???


Mike

Yea I was just thinking off the top of my head. You still have to have throttle body.

 

[zogger]

Yard clean up

Well, despite some effort, I had to stick a homie back under the bench until I get a carb kit and then who knows..they are sorta..adventurous to work on...so I then decided to finish up another project, successful, then go try it out with my branch pile mess in the yard.

Oh ya, baby, lovin' me some green bricks!

After dialing it in and then deciding to sharpen one of them sharkfin chains that it is on it, this thing rips!

 

[Eccentric]

Yeah but didn't your shoulder lock up from the weight and your hands fall off from the vibes after five minutes of running it? Did you run out of fuel and fall asleep during the first cut because it's so slow? Quit messing around with that thing and get a REAL TH saw...

 

[wendell]

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I can't help but notice we are on page 166. :msp_smile:

 

[Eccentric]

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I can't help but notice we are on page 166. :msp_smile:

Steve in comemoration of this event, I'll once again extend my offer to trade you a POULAN XXV for your SD166! What a guy eh?

 

[wendell]

Steve in comemoration of this event, I'll once again extend my offer to trade you a POULAN XXV for your SD166! What a guy eh?

You are a true and dear friend.














No

 

[zogger]

Yeah but didn't your shoulder lock up from the weight and your hands fall off from the vibes after five minutes of running it? Did you run out of fuel and fall asleep during the first cut because it's so slow? Quit messing around with that thing and get a REAL TH saw...

Well...actually, I have a real TH, still needs some work, it is lurking under the bench..it's a 2000.....



I bet one of these xxv ers would do good with like a 10 inch (some sort of ultralite?) bar and a few more teefs on that sprocket...one of you guys musta done this already...

I really didn't cut much today, just two wheelbarrows full from the pile. Boss came by and told me to knock it off anyway, he knows my back has been out all week.

I just *have* to try newly finished saws. I never believe they are really finished until I use them in the cut.

Got a red crafty to finalize now, see how that one goes. Seems..I have to get a muffler is all it lacks at this point, and cut some foam for a filter. I don't recall, trying to finish all my projects in the greenhouse before it gets beastly hot in there. I thought I had another month of winter..nope.

I am just gonna hafta come up with *some* kind of shop, that can work year round for me. I don't mind doing mowers and trucks outside, but these hand held devices I like to work on inside where it is clean/dry/no wind, etc. So I can leave them spread out over many days and not worry about it.

Can't build one, I don't own here, best I have thought of is a used camping trailer and gut it out and make it a shop.

 

[Eccentric]

Well...actually, I have a real TH, still needs some work, it is lurking under the bench..it's a 2000.....



I bet one of these xxv ers would do good with like a 10 inch (some sort of ultralite?) bar and a few more teefs on that sprocket...one of you guys musta done this already...

I really didn't cut much today, just two wheelbarrows full from the pile. Boss came by and told me to knock it off anyway, he knows my back has been out all week.

I just *have* to try newly finished saws. I never believe they are really finished until I use them in the cut.

Got a red crafty to finalize now, see how that one goes. Seems..I have to get a muffler is all it lacks at this point, and cut some foam for a filter. I don't recall, trying to finish all my projects in the greenhouse before it gets beastly hot in there. I thought I had another month of winter..nope.

I am just gonna hafta come up with *some* kind of shop, that can work year round for me. I don't mind doing mowers and trucks outside, but these hand held devices I like to work on inside where it is clean/dry/no wind, etc. So I can leave them spread out over many days and not worry about it.

Can't build one, I don't own here, best I have thought of is a used camping trailer and gut it out and make it a shop.

Some of the early 2.1ci/34cc XXV saws were sold with sweet little 12" and 14" roller nose bars. One of those bars with a loop of that fancy new stihl 3/8LP chisel (and the bumpers ground down, 'Brad style') or a loop of that hot new Oregon 3/8" LP would be a lotta fun on a 'livened up' 38cc/2.3ci S25. The drive sprocket issue might be tricky. There were some rim-drive drums made for those saws, but I believe they had a weird PTO diameter and/or spline count. Hmmmmm.......

 

[barneyrb]

Some of the early 2.1ci/34cc XXV saws were sold with sweet little 12" and 14" roller nose bars. One of those bars with a loop of that fancy new stihl 3/8LP chisel (and the bumpers ground down, 'Brad style') or a loop of that hot new Oregon 3/8" LP would be a lotta fun on a 'livened up' 38cc/2.3ci S25. The drive sprocket issue might be tricky. There were some rim-drive drums made for those saws, but I believe they had a weird PTO diameter and/or spline count. Hmmmmm.......

That chain is what my little 25 is running (still has the small bumpers on it), along with a Oregon Powermate rim drive with a 7t 3/8 lp sprocket. Yep she is a runner.

 

[zogger]

Some of the early 2.1ci/34cc XXV saws were sold with sweet little 12" and 14" roller nose bars. One of those bars with a loop of that fancy new stihl 3/8LP chisel (and the bumpers ground down, 'Brad style') or a loop of that hot new Oregon 3/8" LP would be a lotta fun on a 'livened up' 38cc/2.3ci S25. The drive sprocket issue might be tricky. There were some rim-drive drums made for those saws, but I believe they had a weird PTO diameter and/or spline count. Hmmmmm.......

--Maybe you could get a stock 16 inch bar cut down in a machine shop. There's enough beef in the back there to take 4-6 inches off and still cut out what you need.

The deal with the rims, no idea, I've never played with customization in that regard, only swapped one out once because it was worn. I really don't know what will fit on what there on that crankshaft.

edit: I just looked. I see you can buy 10" bars brand new, and cheap, so that's doable, so far.