Nik's Poulan Thread

[leecopland]

I have a few questions. I currently have an 18" bar on my Poulan 4218avx, which came with the saw. However, would it place less stress on the saw if I replace the original bar with an 16" bar? I really do not need an 18" bar. Which bar do you recommend? Would I need to change the sprocket to accomodate the new bar? In addition, I always use stihl chains, but is there any other chain that would be better that you would recommend? Thank you in advance for your response, Islero :msp_smile:

No need to change the sprocket as long as you stay with the same type of chain, ie. 3/8, or .325 with a similar profile. It should run stronger with a shorter bar.

Lee:cool2:

 

[barneyrb]

I have a few questions. I currently have an 18" bar on my Poulan 4218avx, which came with the saw. However, would it place less stress on the saw if I replace the original bar with an 16" bar? I really do not need an 18" bar. Which bar do you recommend? Would I need to change the sprocket to accomodate the new bar? In addition, I always use stihl chains, but is there any other chain that would be better that you would recommend? Thank you in advance for your response, Islero :msp_smile:

16" on that saw is much better, along with a muffler mod and some retuning that little saw will really wake up and go. Most any bar will work and this one should be fine Bailey's - Carlton 16" Hobby Champ Tiger Chainsaw Bar 56 Drive Links I'd also add get rid of the safety chain and go with some non safety probably Oregon 91....

Do these mods and that little saw (if in good shape) will run right with and comparable Stihl or Husky on the market and if parts are needed much cheaper that either.

This will include a non safety chain, not the best chain but will cut better than safety

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=BHC+16+EP50&catID=

 

[Islero]

No need to change the sprocket as long as you stay with the same type of chain, ie. 3/8, or .325 with a similar profile. It should run stronger with a shorter bar.

Lee:cool2:

Lee, thank you!! Ilene :msp_smile:

 

[Islero]

16" on that saw is much better, along with a muffler mod and some retuning that little saw will really wake up and go. Most any bar will work and this one should be fine Bailey's - Carlton 16" Hobby Champ Tiger Chainsaw Bar 56 Drive Links I'd also add get rid of the safety chain and go with some non safety probably Oregon 91....

Do these mods and that little saw (if in good shape) will run right with and comparable Stihl or Husky on the market and if parts are needed much cheaper that either.

This will include a non safety chain, not the best chain but will cut better than safety

Bailey's - Carlton 16" Hobby Champ Tiger Chainsaw Bar & Chain Combo

barneyrb, thank you for your recommendations, Ilene :msp_smile:

 

[3000 FPS]

I have a PP 260 42cc and I believe it came with a 18" 3/8 low profile. I changed mine to a 16" 3/8 Low profile and love it. It makes the saw cut great, light weight, and just really easy to maneuver and handle. Heck why should I use a big heavy saw on something like 12 inches in diameter or less when this saw will cut through it with a 16" bar and chain with no problem with reasonable speed.

 

[Islero]

I have a PP 260 42cc and I believe it came with a 18" 3/8 low profile. I changed mine to a 16" 3/8 Low profile and love it. It makes the saw cut great, light weight, and just really easy to maneuver and handle. Heck why should I use a big heavy saw on something like 12 inches in diameter or less when this saw will cut through it with a 16" bar and chain with no problem with reasonable speed.

I totally agree with you!! Have a good one, Islero

 

[zogger]

My carb has not any screw like the one you describe.I'll go to check it again and take some pics.


Ok,here are the pics:

View attachment 236490

View attachment 236491

View attachment 236492

View attachment 236493

You know I confused your carb with the one on the 245a, I was working on it yesterday. I don't know where any governor might be on the 3400 carb. I just relooked at the ipl as well and nothing is jumping out at me.

 

[Modifiedmark]

My carb has not any screw like the one you describe.I'll go to check it again and take some pics.


Ok,here are the pics:

View attachment 236490

View attachment 236491

View attachment 236492

View attachment 236493

Kostas, your right, there is no governor on your carb. Yours is a electronic ign and must be a very late model one. Most of the carbs on the 306/245 were HS-59A or B carbs that did have a governor.

A good rebuild on that carb will probably fix you up.

 

[dave76]

I have a few questions. I currently have an 18" bar on my Poulan 4218avx, which came with the saw. However, would it place less stress on the saw if I replace the original bar with an 16" bar? I really do not need an 18" bar. Which bar do you recommend? Would I need to change the sprocket to accomodate the new bar? In addition, I always use stihl chains, but is there any other chain that would be better that you would recommend? Thank you in advance for your response, Islero :msp_smile:

Their nice saws when set up. I pull the muffler, put it in a vice, get a torch and heat the seem up cherry red and pry it open all the way around then you can drill the diffuser (baffle) all the way through, go as big as you can without connecting all the holes, and on the clutch side by the top of the muffler I cut a slit about inch or so long, then reheat it and crimp the seem again. Also cut open as big as you can the air filter cover, then adjust the carb. It makes this saw run 200% better.

Here is a pic

 

[morpheus847]

On a 3400 would anybody have anyntrics to remove the clutch side seal with
Out having to split the case.

 

[dave76]

On a 3400 would anybody have anyntrics to remove the clutch side seal with
Out having to split the case.

I just a small blade screw driver about the size of the carb adj. screws and pry it out, works every time.

 

[stubnail67]

nice!!!

Their nice saws when set up. I pull the muffler, put it in a vice, get a torch and heat the seem up cherry red and pry it open all the way around then you can drill the diffuser (baffle) all the way through, go as big as you can without connecting all the holes, and on the clutch side by the top of the muffler I cut a slit about inch or so long, then reheat it and crimp the seem again. Also cut open as big as you can the air filter cover, then adjust the carb. It makes this saw run 200% better.

Here is a pic

nice to see ya Dave!!!! ya always do nice mods!!!!

 

[stubnail67]

Yea!!!!

I have a PP 260 42cc and I believe it came with a 18" 3/8 low profile. I changed mine to a 16" 3/8 Low profile and love it. It makes the saw cut great, light weight, and just really easy to maneuver and handle. Heck why should I use a big heavy saw on something like 12 inches in diameter or less when this saw will cut through it with a 16" bar and chain with no problem with reasonable speed.

I have a 260 comin to me soon from a member here it is already muffler moded i have the the brand new 16 inch bar and chain waitin on it!!!!!

 

[Islero]

Their nice saws when set up. I pull the muffler, put it in a vice, get a torch and heat the seem up cherry red and pry it open all the way around then you can drill the diffuser (baffle) all the way through, go as big as you can without connecting all the holes, and on the clutch side by the top of the muffler I cut a slit about inch or so long, then reheat it and crimp the seem again. Also cut open as big as you can the air filter cover, then adjust the carb. It makes this saw run 200% better.

Here is a pic

dave76,

Thanks for the recommendation on modifying the muffler. At this point, my saw is at the Stihl dealer who is also the service center for Poulan. According to the Stihl dealer, I scored the piston/cylinder because I did not adjust the carb for the New Mexican altitude (5800 ft. above sea level). The requirement to adjust the carb is no where mentioned in the instruction manual. Poulan brushed me off, so I call the Husquavarna headquarters and informed them of the problem and it's rep instructed me to take the saw back to the dealer. It has been a week and the Stihl dealer tech has yet to touch my saw.

I am considering purchasing a Dolmar 420 but the lack of a dealer in my area has me concerned. I may get a Stihl MS 250, but research reveals the Dolmar to be far superior to the Stihl and less expensive. Again, thanks for your recommendation, Islero :msp_smile:

 

[Islero]

I have a 260 comin to me soon from a member here it is already muffler moded i have the the brand new 16 inch bar and chain waitin on it!!!!!

stubnail67, I sure wish I could say the same about my 4218avx. I sure miss cutting, although I do have a Stilh MS 180 electric chainsaw. I just cannot go out into the field and cut firewood. Islero :msp_smile:

 

[zogger]

stubnail67, I sure wish I could say the same about my 4218avx. I sure miss cutting, although I do have a Stilh MS 180 electric chainsaw. I just cannot go out into the field and cut firewood. Islero :msp_smile:

--how far have you gotten with the rebuild? What do you lack?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I'm having a little problem with a 2.8 Craftsman chainsaw, it starts up pretty good but just runs a few seconds and dies. It restarts just fine using the choke but as soon as you push the choke in it revs up and then dies. I cleaned and put a kit in the carburetor, setting the inlet lever where it should be, it has a new fuel line which I pulled out and checked for leaks or being stopped up, it was okay as was the filter. I then thought it might be leaking air at the intake boot so I took it off and checked it and it was okay also. I also put on a new pulse hose. Any thoughts on what to do next?

 

[stubnail67]

carb?

I'm having a little problem with a 2.8 Craftsman chainsaw, it starts up pretty good but just runs a few seconds and dies. It restarts just fine using the choke but as soon as you push the choke in it revs up and then dies. I cleaned and put a kit in the carburetor, setting the inlet lever where it should be, it has a new fuel line which I pulled out and checked for leaks or being stopped up, it was okay as was the filter. I then thought it might be leaking air at the intake boot so I took it off and checked it and it was okay also. I also put on a new pulse hose. Any thoughts on what to do next?

try a different carb if you have one.... whats the compression?

 

[BroncoRN]

Did you vacuum test carb? Might need to take it back apart and soak in berrymans overnight. Have you tried leaning out low side and cranking idle up?

 

[a. palmer jr.]

try a different carb if you have one.... whats the compression?

I should check compression first but since it does run, even for a few seconds I figured it was good enough. It does get fuel up to the carburetor because I can see it in the line all the way to the carb. It might have a passage in the carb that is blocked, not letting fuel get any farther than that. I may try taking it apart and cleaning it again and if that doesn't work I'll try to find another carb just like that one. I think it's a HDA or something like that. I'm wondering about the tank vent also.
The last one I had that did that had a crack in the fuel line nipple right next to the carb and I only found it when I turned the saw on it's side and it started leaking.