Nik's Poulan Thread

[a. palmer jr.]

If you mean a list of every chainsaw model offered by Craftsman, I've yet to find such a list.

The closest I saw was a document/guide from some forestry department, can't recall which one, regarding spark screens. It has been mentioned here on AS, & somewhere there's a link to it. The PDF doc is huge, & it covers a lot more than just chainsaws. It does include many lists of chainsaws, but it's a PITA to dig through, & it doesn't give the CC/CID. I tried downloading it, but the download kept glitching & freezing, so I gave up.

I try to get the model # from the seller, then do a Google search such as:
Craftsman chainsaw 358.xxxxx IPL
The search results will usually include sites Hammerwall and ManageMyLife. One of those sites will have the operator manuals from Sears/Craftsman available for downloading, which will include the saw size on the front cover, & in the specs. The IPL is also in the manual.

I was always able to get the Craftsman IPLs I wanted by going to Sears.com

 

[3000 FPS]

I would think that's an expensive repair. Aren't mag rods kinda expensive? I know the TIG welder is..Looks like you're getting good at it though.

Yes you are right the rods are on the expensive side. That is the cost of education though. I am always willing to spend alittle more money if the education I get works out. Also the welding shop I went to had special order the rod with a minimum purchase. So right now I have a bunch of rod to play with. Oh yea if you have something I could practice on I could be persuaded.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Yes you are right the rods are on the expensive side. That is the cost of education though. I am always willing to spend alittle more money if the education I get works out. Also the welding shop I went to had special order the rod with a minimum purchase. So right now I have a bunch of rod to play with. Oh yea if you have something I could practice on I could be persuaded.

No, I don't have anything right now..I do a little welding myself but never did have a Tig. I've been toying with the idea though. I've welded just about anything with my AC/DC Hobart but never tried magnesium. I knew it was more difficult than aluminum, which is bad enough sometimes.

 

[crowellmachine]

Yes you are right the rods are on the expensive side. That is the cost of education though. I am always willing to spend alittle more money if the education I get works out. Also the welding shop I went to had special order the rod with a minimum purchase. So right now I have a bunch of rod to play with. Oh yea if you have something I could practice on I could be persuaded.

Hmmmmm...... I have a 4200 with less than 10 hrs use that was sold by my grampa... It could use a little help. The recoil side case half is busted up. Not in any "flight critical" areas though... I have a TIG, how much was the filler rod ?


***edit*** Oh, and BTW; Is 3000FPS in reference to the 250-3000 savage?
we have one of those.......

Love this site !


Karl

 

[3000 FPS]

Hmmmmm...... I have a 4200 with less than 10 hrs use that was sold by my grampa... It could use a little help. The recoil side case half is busted up. Not in any "flight critical" areas though... I have a TIG, how much was the filler rod ?


***edit*** Oh, and BTW; Is 3000FPS in reference to the 250-3000 savage?
we have one of those.......

Love this site !


Karl

The rod that I am using is AZ92A magnesium. They are 1/8"X36" and there was about 30 in what I bought for 95.00 dollars. I am using the Tig with AC just like you would for Aluminium. For gas pure Argon. Then clean the object you are going to weld on very good using a Stainless brush or what ever else you would use for Aluminium. For tungsten rod I am using Ceriated.


I have a 250-3000 savage also love it. I picked the 3000 FPS because I reload and have a bunch of bolt action rifles that all shoot 3000 FPS or more. That seemed like a magical number to me.

 

[Chris J.]

I was always able to get the Craftsman IPLs I wanted by going to Sears.com

Some of those IPLs are illegible/barely legible, & I've yet to figure out how to download them as a comprehensive document (no doubt I'm overlooking something :confused2.

 

[XPLRN]

The rod that I am using is AZ92A magnesium. They are 1/8"X36" and there was about 30 in what I bought for 95.00 dollars. I am using the Tig with AC just like you would for Aluminium. For gas pure Argon. Then clean the object you are going to weld on very good using a Stainless brush or what ever else you would use for Aluminium. For tungsten rod I am using Ceriated.


I have a 250-3000 savage also love it. I picked the 3000 FPS because I reload and have a bunch of bolt action rifles that all shoot 3000 FPS or more. That seemed like a magical number to me.

Sounds good......could you elaborate on the "Ceriated" tungstens you are using??

Also do you weld in an inert gas filled chamber or have some way of applying argon to the underneath side of your weld to prevent oxidizing of the back side of the weld/weld area??

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The rod that I am using is AZ92A magnesium. They are 1/8"X36" and there was about 30 in what I bought for 95.00 dollars. I am using the Tig with AC just like you would for Aluminium. For gas pure Argon. Then clean the object you are going to weld on very good using a Stainless brush or what ever else you would use for Aluminium. For tungsten rod I am using Ceriated.


I have a 250-3000 savage also love it. I picked the 3000 FPS because I reload and have a bunch of bolt action rifles that all shoot 3000 FPS or more. That seemed like a magical number to me.

Thanks from me also for the information. The rods aren't as costly as I had earlier been told. The main thing I would lack is experience. I'll be looking around and pricing tig welders and see what I can come up with.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Some of those IPLs are illegible/barely legible, & I've yet to figure out how to download them as a comprehensive document (no doubt I'm overlooking something :confused2.

I can't remember but I saw another site that had all the Craftsman saws on it. Tonight when everything is quiet around here I'll do a search and see if I can find it. I'll let you know if I do.

 

[3000 FPS]

Sounds good......could you elaborate on the "Ceriated" tungstens you are using??

Also do you weld in an inert gas filled chamber or have some way of applying argon to the underneath side of your weld to prevent oxidizing of the back side of the weld/weld area??

The electrode that I am using in the Tig welder is of the Ceriated type. I do not use pure tungsten electrodes any more because the newer types like Ceriated, Thoriated, and rare earth electrodes carry the current better than pure tungsten.
I do not use a gas filled chamber for welding on these pieces. If re-welding on a piece or welding the back side just wire brush it again to get rid of the oxidation. Believe me some of those pieces I have shown were welded 2 or 3 times trying to get the pitting out of them. That is really the biggest problem so far and I believe it is just from impurities in the casting itself. I am not a welder by trade and just learning alot of this just like you guys. The Tig I have is a Miller that I bought used about 3 years ago.

 

[3000 FPS]

Thanks from me also for the information. The rods aren't as costly as I had earlier been told. The main thing I would lack is experience. I'll be looking around and pricing tig welders and see what I can come up with.

If you can weld aluminium you can do this. Like anything else it is just a matter of knowing what your looking at while your welding and that just takes practice. When looking for a Tig having the high frequency is a big plus and having precise current control is a big plus. The Tig I have came with a thumb wheel so I taught myself to use that instead of a foot pedal. But the foot pedal is still a good way to go.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If you can weld aluminium you can do this. Like anything else it is just a matter of knowing what your looking at while your welding and that just takes practice. When looking for a Tig having the high frequency is a big plus and having precise current control is a big plus. The Tig I have came with a thumb wheel so I taught myself to use that instead of a foot pedal. But the foot pedal is still a good way to go.

I've done some decent aluminum welding with my AC/DC welder. It works better on thicker stuff however. Never tried welding anything thinner than 1/8". It takes practice to make it look like anything when you're done.

 

[XPLRN]

The electrode that I am using in the Tig welder is of the Ceriated type. I do not use pure tungsten electrodes any more because the newer types like Ceriated, Thoriated, and rare earth electrodes carry the current better than pure tungsten.
I do not use a gas filled chamber for welding on these pieces. If re-welding on a piece or welding the back side just wire brush it again to get rid of the oxidation. Believe me some of those pieces I have shown were welded 2 or 3 times trying to get the pitting out of them. That is really the biggest problem so far and I believe it is just from impurities in the casting itself. I am not a welder by trade and just learning alot of this just like you guys. The Tig I have is a Miller that I bought used about 3 years ago.

Thanks for the information. I have Tig welded aluminum before......does the mag have as sensitive of a "fall-out"/melting point as aluminum?? Referencing especially on the thinner material......you know when it get's shiny and if you don't get movin' with putting some filler in and getting on with your bead......it drops out.

It might be pretty do-able to rig up a old sand blasting cabinet with a argon fill so you have an inert atmosphere.....then I bet you wont have as much pitting. Very cool that your picking it up and saving some of the old mag parts!!:msp_thumbsup:

That is some expensive filler rod.

 

[leecopland]

Which Poulans use the stato charged carorator?

Hopefully some on this thread can tell me which Poulans use this carb and cylinder.

Many thanks,

Great site for learning.

Lee:msp_smile:

PS should be carburetor of course!!

 

[3000 FPS]

Thanks for the information. I have Tig welded aluminum before......does the mag have as sensitive of a "fall-out"/melting point as aluminum?? Referencing especially on the thinner material......you know when it get's shiny and if you don't get movin' with putting some filler in and getting on with your bead......it drops out.

It might be pretty do-able to rig up a old sand blasting cabinet with a argon fill so you have an inert atmosphere.....then I bet you wont have as much pitting. Very cool that your picking it up and saving some of the old mag parts!!:msp_thumbsup:

That is some expensive filler rod.

Yes it is similar to aluminium with the melting point and drop out like you said.

 

[hemiyota]

245 decal pic

I've been looking back to find the pic of the 245 decal, with the script writing, but can't find it. I'm checking into getting one made, and need a clear pic to send the guy. Can whoever posted that pic either re-post it or post the link to it.. Thanks! :msp_sad:

 

[Chris Crouse]

Reed Valve or Just Block for 306A

If anyone has a good reed block that will work on a 306A I am in need. Mine must have been a poor casting and somewhat disintegrated in a carburetor cleaner bath. The part number for the valve assembly is 2383. The part number for just the block is 1368.

Thanks guys!
Chris

 

[67 Mustang]

If anyone has a good reed block that will work on a 306A I am in need. Mine must have been a poor casting and somewhat disintegrated in a carburetor cleaner bath. The part number for the valve assembly is 2383. The part number for just the block is 1368.

Thanks guys!
Chris

If no one comes through NOS assemblies are available on fleabay for $14.50 including shipping.

 

[Eccentric]

I've been looking back to find the pic of the 245 decal, with the script writing, but can't find it. I'm checking into getting one made, and need a clear pic to send the guy. Can whoever posted that pic either re-post it or post the link to it.. Thanks! :msp_sad:

Here's the post. It's post #18822 from page #1255 of this great thread.

Is this really a 74 c.c. displacement saw as stated here;
Model Profile: 245A

What can you Poulan enthusiasts tell me about this saw......things like durability, torque and what size bar is recommended??
It really seems to be quite a compact package for older vintage 74 c.c. saw. Thoughts??

 

[hemiyota]

Here's the post. It's post #18822 from page #1255 of this great thread.

Thanks! That one was posted, and then someone posted one that was in a lot better shape. I want to get as good a pic as possible, for the guy to work with. Also a nice pic of the a/c decal....