Nik's Poulan Thread

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All the 400 sbc have the same bore and stroke. I belive you are probley thinkn of the 396 and the 402. The 402 was a .030 over 396 that was introduced in 1970 to replace the 396. Even though it was now a 402 some chevys sported 400 badges.

I was just going on memory and it can be shaky at times. I had a friend that had an old Chevy Impala, I think it was around 1970 or so and I think I looked up the specs on it for some reason or another and it came up around 389 cu. in. It doesn't matter that much, he gave me a Poulan, er Craftsman chain saw for painting it for him, just the labor. Still have the old saw and it still runs after all these years, he passed away about 5 years ago. Probably keep the old saw and let my next of kin decide what to do with it.
 
Not sure what older ones you are talking about but the 400 small blocks I'm familiar with had a 4.125 bore and a 3.750 stroke.
That works out to 400.992 on my calculator.
I do know that the bore and stroke changed a little throughout the years, but I didn't think it was ever that much.
The 400 was, to the best of my knowledge the only engine size made by all of the GM divisions(except Cadillac) AND Ford and Chrysler.
They were great for hauling old Poulans around.
(That will serve to keep us on topic)


Mike

I'll tell you how I figured it, bore X stroke X 3.14 X 8. It came out to 389.046. That may not be the correct way to figure displacement but I think I read it in Hot Rod magazine some time ago that was how they did it. Like I said, my memory doesn't work like it used to and is subject to error.
 
All that car stuff aside, I had a Poulan 245 parts saw on ebay for a week and it didn't sell so decided why not try to make a runner out of it? It already had spark and a carb and seemed to have fair compression. Dug into my old parts and found a reed valve for it, it was missing on the parts saw, rewound the starter with new rope, now it's all complete except for bar and chain. I put an old 16" bar and chain on it but didn't look right being that short. I'll rummage around and see if I can find a 20. It still could use a clutch cover because the one on it is kinda trashed but I'm still trying to get it to run.
 
Can you post a pic of how the springs and dogs are positioned on your flywheels?

I'll shoot a pic tomorrow. I take it the parts arrived? Put on the springs, then the washers, then the studs and pawls. The pawls circle the flywheel in a clockwise direction (going from the studs to the notched end of the pawls). Hook the springs on the pawls so that they push the pawl ends towards the center. Then put on the flywheel screen and secure it with the two nuts.
 
I'll shoot a pic tomorrow. I take it the parts arrived? Put on the springs, then the washers, then the studs and pawls. The pawls circle the flywheel in a clockwise direction (going from the studs to the notched end of the pawls). Hook the springs on the pawls so that they push the pawl ends towards the center. Then put on the flywheel screen and secure it with the two nuts.

Yes, they're here. Thanks again! I got it figured out, and finally got it started, after about a year...:clap:
 
Lucky not to sell

As I said in an earlier post, I had my 245 "parts" saw on ebay for a week, thinking it was only good for parts and probably couldn't be repaired, it didn't sell. I took another look at this thing that's been taking up space on a shelf and decided it might be worth checking into some more. It was missing a few parts but I found some more and slapped it together, to my surprise it ran! It oils the chain well, maybe too well, it only has a 16" b/c on it. I'm really surprised how easily it started after being apart all this time. It still needs some cosmetic parts, like the clutch cover and maybe a newer bar and chain but at least I know it's a runner now!

Anybody know if the chain oiler on this saw is adjustable? I looked but couldn't find an adjustment screw.
 
As I said in an earlier post, I had my 245 "parts" saw on ebay for a week, thinking it was only good for parts and probably couldn't be repaired, it didn't sell. I took another look at this thing that's been taking up space on a shelf and decided it might be worth checking into some more. It was missing a few parts but I found some more and slapped it together, to my surprise it ran! It oils the chain well, maybe too well, it only has a 16" b/c on it. I'm really surprised how easily it started after being apart all this time. It still needs some cosmetic parts, like the clutch cover and maybe a newer bar and chain but at least I know it's a runner now!

Anybody know if the chain oiler on this saw is adjustable? I looked but couldn't find an adjustment screw.

Good job Joe!:clap:

Joyce (Chainsawlady) just told me she has several Poulan bars. You may want to contact her. A 245A really nees a 20"-21" bar. They'll run much more bar, but they balance better with a 20 (because they're so dang light for their displacement). I'm putting a 3/8-8 rim on mine with a 20" RN. It'll easily pull that, and the 8 pin rim will give it some more chain speed.
 
Good job Joe!:clap:

Joyce (Chainsawlady) just told me she has several Poulan bars. You may want to contact her. A 245A really nees a 20"-21" bar. They'll run much more bar, but they balance better with a 20 (because they're so dang light for their displacement). I'm putting a 3/8-8 rim on mine with a 20" RN. It'll easily pull that, and the 8 pin rim will give it some more chain speed.

I think I found out the answer to my question about the adjustable oiler. It doesn't look like there is an adjustment on the oiler itself but at the end of the output for oil there is a brass jet similar to a jet on an automobile carburetor. I suppose if you wanted more volume you'd just get another jet (good luck on that one) or drill that one out. Since I'm wanting less oil I guess I'll have to restrict the jet in some way. I tried unscrewing the jet but it was in too tight, kept wallowing up the screwdriver slot.
 
Good job Joe!:clap:

Joyce (Chainsawlady) just told me she has several Poulan bars. You may want to contact her. A 245A really nees a 20"-21" bar. They'll run much more bar, but they balance better with a 20 (because they're so dang light for their displacement). I'm putting a 3/8-8 rim on mine with a 20" RN. It'll easily pull that, and the 8 pin rim will give it some more chain speed.

I have a 24" bar and chain that are in great shape, just didn't know if I wanted to use it on the 245 or not. Maybe the saw needs a little more tuning or maybe the carb cleaned because I was wondering if the 24 would be too much for it. I guess there's only one way to find out.
 
I have a 24" bar and chain that are in great shape, just didn't know if I wanted to use it on the 245 or not. Maybe the saw needs a little more tuning or maybe the carb cleaned because I was wondering if the 24 would be too much for it. I guess there's only one way to find out.

If it's healthy, that saw will have no problem with a 24" bar and a 3/8-7 rim. It'll be a bit nose heavy though. Gregg has a nice 245A with a 24" bar that he cuts with IIRC.
 
I have a 24" bar and chain that are in great shape, just didn't know if I wanted to use it on the 245 or not. Maybe the saw needs a little more tuning or maybe the carb cleaned because I was wondering if the 24 would be too much for it. I guess there's only one way to find out.

Good job Joe!:clap:

Joyce (Chainsawlady) just told me she has several Poulan bars. You may want to contact her. A 245A really nees a 20"-21" bar. They'll run much more bar, but they balance better with a 20 (because they're so dang light for their displacement). I'm putting a 3/8-8 rim on mine with a 20" RN. It'll easily pull that, and the 8 pin rim will give it some more chain speed.


Not to worry on the 24 inch bar it will pull it fine, may even like the 8 pin better, before I got rid of mine it wore a 28 or 26 inch bar(I think it is a 26 inch cut on my 8500 with the big dawg and 28 inch cut on the 245A) and a 7 pin rim and it cut just as fast as the 20 inch bar and 7 pin I had on it of course that is in this soft wood we have up here in the PNW. Aaron, I think a 8 pin would be perfect for the 20 inch bar, might even get away with a 9 pin, the 245A is very similar in power and torque to a 72cc to 82cc Mac 10 series saw. I sure am sorry I let that 245A get away but it helped in getting the 8500's.
 
PP 425 split for bad bearings.

pp425475002.jpg

pp425475003.jpg



PP 475 next to be split open. Just a little roughness felt in bearings. Better safe then sorry later.

pp425475001.jpg
 
Poulan 2300 CVA

What is the "normal" comp range for one of these saws. I picked up a non runner, replaced seals, removed and replaced Cylinder w/o a gasket and comp is barely 120. Me thinks I should have installed a new ring. Now would be a good time to do it , rather than later. However its so hot in my garage, that 15 min. stints is the max.
Bob
 
What is the "normal" comp range for one of these saws. I picked up a non runner, replaced seals, removed and replaced Cylinder w/o a gasket and comp is barely 120. Me thinks I should have installed a new ring. Now would be a good time to do it , rather than later. However its so hot in my garage, that 15 min. stints is the max.
Bob

I would think 120 is usable. If it's as hot down there as it is here now might not be the time to do it. Does the saw start and run okay? If it does I'd probably leave it as is.
 

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