Nik's Poulan Thread

[67 Mustang]

I have a 245 which has about the same problem with the muffler coming loose occasionally. I just keep tightening mine up. I don't know of a compound like Loc-Tite that will stand that heat, probably is one though.

Loctite 272

Loctite 272 high temperature, high strength threadlocker

Maximum thread size: Up to M80
Strength: High
Breakaway torque M10 bolts: 23Nm
Fixture time steel: 40 min.
Service temperature range: -55°C - +200°C
Pack sizes: 50ml, 250ml

 

[redunshee]

Well got the saw back together. Runs real well though a little loud with the MM I did. Surprisingly starts very easy even after sitting for a day or two esp. given the distance the fuel has to travel from the tank to the carb. Question: Is there suppose to be some kind of foam in the fuel cap? Fuel squirts out the vent hole when running. In looking at the interior of the cap it appears that the clear plastic dome is attached to the cap thus isn't removable. Doesn't seem to be anything to absorb the splashing fuel.
Bob

Bump

 

[3000 FPS]

Bump

I thought the fuel cap was suppose to have a duck bill in it to prevent what your referring to. There is a small round spring washer that is used to hold it in place.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

If you need a clutch for your 306A and if they are the same on a 245A I have one you can have. Mine is off a 245A, but it's in fine condition. I'm pretty sure the 306 and the 245 share the same clutch, but you might want to check for sure. I'm sure Mark can answer this, he seems to be pretty slick when it comes to ugly green saws, just kiddin, they are purrrdy.
Hey I can probably scrounge you up a muffler also from a 245 if it will fit your 306

thanks blackoak. gonna try to get it off tonight. when i start it it doesn't want to turn the chain; just in fits and starts. i know the sprocket teeth are way worn out. anyone know where i can get a sprocket?

 

[redunshee]

I thought the fuel cap was suppose to have a duck bill in it to prevent what your referring to. There is a small round spring washer that is used to hold it in place.

Not on the 2300av or CVA. I wish it did, however. I can fix that. Maybe someone who has the saw will provide some input. Hate to buy a new cap.
Bob

 

[jerrycmorrow]

If you need a clutch for your 306A and if they are the same on a 245A I have one you can have. Mine is off a 245A, but it's in fine condition. I'm pretty sure the 306 and the 245 share the same clutch, but you might want to check for sure. I'm sure Mark can answer this, he seems to be pretty slick when it comes to ugly green saws, just kiddin, they are purrrdy.
Hey I can probably scrounge you up a muffler also from a 245 if it will fit your 306

I have a 245 which has about the same problem with the muffler coming loose occasionally. I just keep tightening mine up. I don't know of a compound like Loc-Tite that will stand that heat, probably is one though.

Loctite 272

Loctite 272 high temperature, high strength threadlocker

Maximum thread size: Up to M80
Strength: High
Breakaway torque M10 bolts: 23Nm
Fixture time steel: 40 min.
Service temperature range: -55°C - +200°C
Pack sizes: 50ml, 250ml

thanks guys. i pulled the muff cover off this morning. didn't see anything obviously broken. i'm guessing its loose cause its been charring the end of the clutch cover.

 

[Eccentric]

Not on the 2300av or CVA. I wish it did, however. I can fix that. Maybe someone who has the saw will provide some input. Hate to buy a new cap.
Bob

IIRC those caps aren't serviceable (unlike the caps on many of the earlier Poulan saws). When I worked at Sears Service in the '90s we just replaced the caps when they started peeing. Same cap as what's on the 'lunchbox engine' weedeaters. They weren't expensive....

 

[Mac88]

I thought the fuel cap was suppose to have a duck bill in it to prevent what your referring to. There is a small round spring washer that is used to hold it in place.

I have a Craftsman 2.0 (Poulan) with a duckbill in the cap. Probably not original equipment. My Poulan 2000
has a rubber flap kinda thing with a tit that goes through a hole in the top of the cap. It doesn't leak. I also
have one with the flap and a star-washer retainer. It DOES leak.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Loctite 272

Loctite 272 high temperature, high strength threadlocker

Maximum thread size: Up to M80
Strength: High
Breakaway torque M10 bolts: 23Nm
Fixture time steel: 40 min.
Service temperature range: -55°C - +200°C
Pack sizes: 50ml, 250ml

Wouldn't the exhaust temperature be higher than 200F?

 

[drumbum]

200 degrees celsius or is that centigrade

 

[Showme]

655 gas cap

Any idea why the gas and oil caps on my 655 are so tight that I have to remove and install them with a pair of pliers. I can't detect any signs of them being cross threaded and they appear to be correct but boy are they tight. Anybody got a spare gas cap they could spare. I bought another oil cap on eBay to try.

 

[67 Mustang]

Wouldn't the exhaust temperature be higher than 200F?

200 degrees celsius or is that centigrade

Celsius is centigrade. 200* Celsius is about 400* F.

9/5 C + 32 = F

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Wouldn't the exhaust temperature be higher than 200F?

that's 200*C = 392*F. also, the loctite blue will develop 150 in-lb at 300*F.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Well got the saw back together. Runs real well though a little loud with the MM I did. Surprisingly starts very easy even after sitting for a day or two esp. given the distance the fuel has to travel from the tank to the carb. Question: Is there suppose to be some kind of foam in the fuel cap? Fuel squirts out the vent hole when running. In looking at the interior of the cap it appears that the clear plastic dome is attached to the cap thus isn't removable. Doesn't seem to be anything to absorb the splashing fuel.
Bob

Bob, I have drilled those plastic dome holes out big enough to stick a Homelite duckbill in and it worked out ok.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Is one turn out on both h and l the basic rule of thumb to start out with on adjusting a carb. I have a pp365 that has been real finicky when I'm adjusting the carb. I was adjusting it on Friday night and got it set real good. I then shut it off and it restarted right away but the idle was alil to high. The clutch kind of wanted to engage. So I turned down the idle alil hit the trigger and it came down more with out me adjusting it and then died. After that it would start on choke then die then wouldn't start at all. I was cooking supper on the grill at the time so I didn't mess with it much more after that and have been getting irritated with this saw which is about to be thrown in the scrap bin. So I just put it back on the shelf before I totally lost it lol.

Without knowing more background info on the saws overall conditon and care, its hard to pinpoint things like this.

That said The HDA carbs are pretty reliable and trouble free for the most part and it sounds like you may have a air leak problem.

First thing to check is the impulse line from the top of the carb to the cyl. There known to break down and leak. If your not comfortable in doing this stuff, you should take it to a shop or someone experianced in this kind of stuff.

If left like this you could fry the saw in short time.

The PP365's are great saws and you would have to spend quite a bit of money to replace it with a equal saw today.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I have a 245 which has about the same problem with the muffler coming loose occasionally. I just keep tightening mine up. I don't know of a compound like Loc-Tite that will stand that heat, probably is one though.

The 306/245 muffler loosening problem is easily cured with the right sized bolts. There a #12 bolt but I have seen them where someone has stuck #10 bolts in them.

The threaded holes in the cyl are very deep and you need bolts to use all the available threads. This is especially true if your running a cast muffler on them as the base is much thicker.

 

[Modifiedmark]

If you need a clutch for your 306A and if they are the same on a 245A I have one you can have. Mine is off a 245A, but it's in fine condition. I'm pretty sure the 306 and the 245 share the same clutch, but you might want to check for sure. I'm sure Mark can answer this, he seems to be pretty slick when it comes to ugly green saws, just kiddin, they are purrrdy.
Hey I can probably scrounge you up a muffler also from a 245 if it will fit your 306

Chuck the clutch will interchange no problem. The earlier 306's had a 4 shoe clutch with double springs on them. I dont think the 245 ever got that clutch but am not for sure. The earler 4.5 cube 200 series did use it though I believe.

The later 306 got the full circle 3 shoe clutch with the flat springs that the 245 had as well.

Later 306's used the same tin mufflers as the 245 as well but even though the cast muffler can be used on a 245, I dont think they ever came from the factory with them.

 

[wendell]

Any idea why the gas and oil caps on my 655 are so tight that I have to remove and install them with a pair of pliers. I can't detect any signs of them being cross threaded and they appear to be correct but boy are they tight. Anybody got a spare gas cap they could spare. I bought another oil cap on eBay to try.

Too bad to hear your saw is broken. Lucky for you you won't have to worry about it since you're giving it to me.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

200 degrees celsius or is that centigrade

I guess you're right, I overlooked that simple thing. Thanks 200C would be a lot warmer I would think.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Chuck the clutch will interchange no problem. The earlier 306's had a 4 shoe clutch with double springs on them. I dont think the 245 ever got that clutch but am not for sure. The earler 4.5 cube 200 series did use it though I believe.

The later 306 got the full circle 3 shoe clutch with the flat springs that the 245 had as well.

Later 306's used the same tin mufflers as the 245 as well but even though the cast muffler can be used on a 245, I dont think they ever came from the factory with them.

It is my belief that the tin muffler stays put on the saw a little better than the cast one unless you do some modifications.