Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
More Mag welding
This is a before and after of a clutch cover that had a really bad crack. This belongs to a fellow Poulan person here on the forum and thought I would post some pics. The pics show it was welded from the inside and outside of the cover for better strength.
View attachment 250948View attachment 250949View attachment 250950View attachment 250951
This is a before and after of a clutch cover that had a really bad crack. This belongs to a fellow Poulan person here on the forum and thought I would post some pics. The pics show it was welded from the inside and outside of the cover for better strength.
Last edited:
Hole from the chain adjuster
Yep this one had the infamous hole from the chain adjuster. This one was challenging because I checked it with water to see if it leaked. I had to weld it 3 times before getting them all. Good practice though.
View attachment 251001View attachment 251002
Yep this one had the infamous hole from the chain adjuster. This one was challenging because I checked it with water to see if it leaked. I had to weld it 3 times before getting them all. Good practice though.
Last edited:
Great job 3000 FPS. Nice to know people with that skill out there in this chainsaw repair world. :cool2::msp_thumbup:
Hey thanks alot, it does have a certain satisfaction when you know that these pieces are no longer available and could be used again to make a running saw if welded up. I also try as much as I can to make it look like it did when first made, which is probably more work than the welding itself. Lets just say in six months when I retire I will have plenty to keep me busy. Oh yea.
might. took it apart today. totally missing (as in nowhere to be found) one of the carb screws and the other was real loose. all the movement apparently caused the carb gasket to stress. totally amazed that thing was getting enough fuel to even run. no just gotta get a screw for the carb and make a carb gasket. just wondering if installing the cylinder without a base gasket could help compression any? doesn't seem low, just always nice to have more.
This is a before and after of a clutch cover that had a really bad crack. This belongs to a fellow Poulan person here on the forum and thought I would post some pics. The pics show it was welded from the inside and outside of the cover for better strength.
View attachment 250948View attachment 250949View attachment 250950View attachment 250951
Now that's a work of art!
Chris B.
Poulan Super 25D and parts score
i picked up a S25D the other day for $20.00 (it did not look like this when i got it) worked on it for several hours and replaced the recoil cover etc with one a had from a parts score ($60.00) for all of the parts. not sure what all i have but there are 8 bars and three almost complete saws in pieces. 12 sprokets, etc etc.. View attachment 251080View attachment 251081View attachment 251082View attachment 251083
i picked up a S25D the other day for $20.00 (it did not look like this when i got it) worked on it for several hours and replaced the recoil cover etc with one a had from a parts score ($60.00) for all of the parts. not sure what all i have but there are 8 bars and three almost complete saws in pieces. 12 sprokets, etc etc.. View attachment 251080View attachment 251081View attachment 251082View attachment 251083
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I can hook you up with the carb screw. Might even have a carb gasket around. Also be sure your carb intake manifold is tight. I've seen them leak as well. Let me know. Removing cylinder gasket will help comp a bit. Maybe 5 lbs. I use Dirko HT or Permatex No 1. Gray gasket maker.
Bob
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
For the Poulan folks who collect rebadged Poulans:
Heavy Duty Mastercraft Chainsaw Runs Great | eBay
I've only seen small Poulan saws rebadged as Mastercraft.
Heavy Duty Mastercraft Chainsaw Runs Great | eBay
I've only seen small Poulan saws rebadged as Mastercraft.
XPLRN
Dad ^^^^ wouldn't understand the CAD!!! :-)
Just curious..........do you do any V-ing out of the crack or just rely on the depth of the weld puddle to get your penetration of the cracked part??
I'm presuming it's a high amp draw application (like aluminum) and that you have a water-cooled torch!?? Do you get a lot of crud in the weld puddle from the porosity of the mag casting and what it's been exposed to for decades??
Last edited:
No I do not do any V-ing out of a crack that I am going to weld. Mag is like welding aluminium except it is even more like water when enough heat is applied and that is why I weld it from both sides. If I had enough heat to weld all the way through it would fall just like a drop of water.
The other thing that is critical with magnesium is the torch distance from the object you are going to weld. You have to keep the torch much closer to keep a good consistant arch going. That is hard to do because I am not a welder by trade just a guy at home having fun.
The Mag does not take as much heat to weld as aluminium, but you are right it is a water cooled torch. The unit I have has a cooler sitting next to the argon bottle.
Yes sometimes there is alot of contamination that can end up in the weld puddle from the casting and from years of exposure to oil that just seems to soak into everything. When I come across this I may end up welding the same spot 3 times just to get rid of it.
It is the nature of the beast when welding on them and have come to expect a certain amount of it.
EZRYDER
ArboristSite Operative
Need help wit s25 PRO
I just picked up an s25 PRO from another member yesterday. I am not finding a lot of info on this as most designations are S25DA, V, etc. The only place I am reading the S25 PRO is from the recoil cover decal. It looks the same as pics of the other s25's I am finding but I can't find the specs or manufacture years, manual EPL, etc for this one. It is the teardrop shape, all metal and light orange.
ANY HELP?
Larry
I just picked up an s25 PRO from another member yesterday. I am not finding a lot of info on this as most designations are S25DA, V, etc. The only place I am reading the S25 PRO is from the recoil cover decal. It looks the same as pics of the other s25's I am finding but I can't find the specs or manufacture years, manual EPL, etc for this one. It is the teardrop shape, all metal and light orange.
ANY HELP?
Larry
WT Walbro
I was given a little Craftsman 2.2 chainsaw which wouldn't start and it appears to have new fuel lines installed. I'm wondering if they got the lines confused. All I need to know is..the fuel line with the filter coming in from the tank, does it go to the upper fitting on the WT carb or the fitting that goes in the center? I had another Craftsman to compare it to but the carburetor is different.
I was given a little Craftsman 2.2 chainsaw which wouldn't start and it appears to have new fuel lines installed. I'm wondering if they got the lines confused. All I need to know is..the fuel line with the filter coming in from the tank, does it go to the upper fitting on the WT carb or the fitting that goes in the center? I had another Craftsman to compare it to but the carburetor is different.
can anybody tell me what parts i got?
It looks like you have a nice looking Poulan 25DA and a bunch of parts to put together a Poulan Micro saw. Not enough for a complete one however. I don't see the clutch side engine cover.
I thought the upper fitting on WT carb was for the diaphram and the one in the center was for fuel.
The clutch side cover is in the box but is in bad shape on the bottom, what is the red saw? it says power sharp on the cover and that is all. lots of sprockets as well. you are over in the Lawnmower forum as well?
Poulan had some Power Sharp models for awhile, took a different chain. Usually they got changed over to conventional chains and the Power Sharp equipment removed. I joined the Lawnmower forum to ask a few questions about a couple of mowers I was having trouble with. Kinda got them fixed, at least as well as any tightwad that doesn't want to buy new parts has.
One of those two fittings goes to the inlet side of the primer bulb. The other is for fuel, I've repaired a bunch of these, just got a memory fade thing, forgot which is which. I tried them both ways and the saw would only run for a few seconds then die. I'll probably end up cleaning the carb and putting a new kit in it after I run the fuel lines right.
Similar threads
