I know it sound odd but an electronic coil will not bolt on in place of a points coil. I ran into this on my dad's s25da. The bolt pattern on the cylinder is different.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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I know it sound odd but an electronic coil will not bolt on in place of a points coil. I ran into this on my dad's s25da. The bolt pattern on the cylinder is different.
Thanks anyway beavers
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
will a craftsman 2.1 coil work,I think I got one on a parts saw.it is a points saw.
My saw is actually a craftsman 2.1. Just said S25DA cause it's more familiar to folks. Watcha need for it?
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
Wasn't looking for much I dont know if it has spark ,do you want the whole parts saw or just the coil.Just shipping no money pm me.The saw don't have a flywheel on it.
Agree with your findings cyl mount is different. l do have a that cyl as well, nice condition.
No interest right now. Thanks fo yer effort
Few projects I am changing around. The Pp365 was a perfectly good saw. But I wanted to use it's tank on the Craftsman. So the 365 will become a 380 with looks of a 365 still. 
3450 had missing tank vent. Bad seal. The checked bearings and bad crank bearing even though smooth. To much up down play.
So switching everything to a crankcase I have had on shelf for years.
3450 had missing tank vent. Bad seal. The checked bearings and bad crank bearing even though smooth. To much up down play.
So switching everything to a crankcase I have had on shelf for years.
Like your sign on your table, we say that in the shop now and then along with (you can't hide stupid) [emoji3] .Few projects I am changing around. The Pp365 was a perfectly good saw. But I wanted to use it's tank on the Craftsman. So the 365 will become a 380 with looks of a 365 still.
3450 had missing tank vent. Bad seal. The checked bearings and bad crank bearing even though smooth. To much up down play.
So switching everything to a crankcase I have had on shelf for years.
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Steve
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
How about can't teach common sense.
Like the warning sticker on a radiator fan cover telling not to remove belt with engine running, they must think everybody uses cats to take them off with.
Steve
Steve
I had to ask a customer one day if she owned a cat, she said she did, well I told her it spent all nine lives at one shot and she also needed a new belt. Clean up depart had the job washing it out.
Steve
Steve
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
I had my carb off today and looked it over found 80 stamped on the bottom.So the 21-85 is a sdc 80,why everybody refers to them as 21-85 i don't know.
Good find. Thanks for clearing that up.
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
I hope it help's others so they don't have to search endless with no answers.No more 21-85 mystery.
I just finished putting this early chain brake 1979 back together. Gasket delete, new seals, etc. I ran into some problems with the oil pump. It had clearly not been oiling well. I discovered that one of the check valves had worked a spring back out into the chamber. It was hanging on by a coil at best. It was a dog to work it back into the assembly. I used a pick, hand lens and patience to slowly push one coil at a time back home. They are very fine springs and easy to kink.
I just thought I would share what I do/have learned about these pumps. Perhaps some new to these great saws will find it helpful. Those familiar will likely find this redundant.
Oil Pump
I am convinced these pumps work well when healthy. They pump a nice volume at throttle and very little (if any) at idle. The main culprits to poor delivery are hung up check valves (there are two ball checks), kinked/collapsed/deteriorated pick-up line and old stiff diaphragms.
Here is what I do:
1) Soak pump and all components in boiled, soapy water until it is cool.
2) Use a fine jet of water/cleaner to work all the input/output channels in the pump. By covering holes and using the jet/cleaner, you can tell which way the checks should be operating. A piece of tubing can be used in a similar fashion to checking the high speed checks on the HDB carb you should be cleaning out as well. Make certain the pump and checks are seating/opening well.
3) New Tygon (save the spring sheath). I attach the tygon/pickup and use a clean bowl of water to test the manual. Use a suitable nail (blunt the end) to actuate the pump.
4) New diaphragm. Pull the old one flat and trace carefully. Mark the holes for the cover pin bosses/screw holes and impulse precisely. I use a wheel punch to match all but the pin bosses. For that, I heat a small finishing nail in a torch and melt the holes to size. The new diaphragm is on the left (photo after 7)).
5) I've made new gaskets and reused old ones only if they come off easily and they are sound. When I reuse the old ones, I soak them in oil for a day or so.
6) New foam for the manual push rod and atmosphere side of the pump body. I like to extend the foam on the rod a bit more than stock. It is amazing the crap that finds its way behind that inspection plate. Make sure the foam on the pump itself does not interfere with the button/pintle. Cut a thin piece and pull tight/snip off.
7) When putting the pump back into the saw make sure the pick-up line is laying without any kinks. You can see the original black line in the following photo. That kink, curled diaphragm (on the right) and the thrown check spring made the pump inoperable.
I test the pumps on the saw without the clutch. This way, I can visually inspect the operation. At idle there is some to little oil discharge. At full throttle, the pumps should pump a steady stream out of the bar pad and start making a puddle under the saw within a few seconds. I use heavy weight oil and they move it well. Never run these saws without a cover/bar/chain if the clutch is on!
I just thought I would share what I do/have learned about these pumps. Perhaps some new to these great saws will find it helpful. Those familiar will likely find this redundant.
Oil Pump
I am convinced these pumps work well when healthy. They pump a nice volume at throttle and very little (if any) at idle. The main culprits to poor delivery are hung up check valves (there are two ball checks), kinked/collapsed/deteriorated pick-up line and old stiff diaphragms.
Here is what I do:
1) Soak pump and all components in boiled, soapy water until it is cool.
2) Use a fine jet of water/cleaner to work all the input/output channels in the pump. By covering holes and using the jet/cleaner, you can tell which way the checks should be operating. A piece of tubing can be used in a similar fashion to checking the high speed checks on the HDB carb you should be cleaning out as well. Make certain the pump and checks are seating/opening well.
3) New Tygon (save the spring sheath). I attach the tygon/pickup and use a clean bowl of water to test the manual. Use a suitable nail (blunt the end) to actuate the pump.
4) New diaphragm. Pull the old one flat and trace carefully. Mark the holes for the cover pin bosses/screw holes and impulse precisely. I use a wheel punch to match all but the pin bosses. For that, I heat a small finishing nail in a torch and melt the holes to size. The new diaphragm is on the left (photo after 7)).
5) I've made new gaskets and reused old ones only if they come off easily and they are sound. When I reuse the old ones, I soak them in oil for a day or so.
6) New foam for the manual push rod and atmosphere side of the pump body. I like to extend the foam on the rod a bit more than stock. It is amazing the crap that finds its way behind that inspection plate. Make sure the foam on the pump itself does not interfere with the button/pintle. Cut a thin piece and pull tight/snip off.
7) When putting the pump back into the saw make sure the pick-up line is laying without any kinks. You can see the original black line in the following photo. That kink, curled diaphragm (on the right) and the thrown check spring made the pump inoperable.
I test the pumps on the saw without the clutch. This way, I can visually inspect the operation. At idle there is some to little oil discharge. At full throttle, the pumps should pump a steady stream out of the bar pad and start making a puddle under the saw within a few seconds. I use heavy weight oil and they move it well. Never run these saws without a cover/bar/chain if the clutch is on!
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