Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
litefoot said:Roland,
Dank u / merci beaucoup / danke schon....whichever applies.
How about "thanks alot"?
noob wants to work on saws
- Thread starter gasman
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How about "thanks alot"?
njforestfire
ArboristSite Operative
carvinmark said:
Great idea! I know that color pics ALWAYS look and WORK better than those b/w ones from the manuals.
Please say affirmitive
http://cgi.ebay.com/STIHL-026-Chainsaw-NICE-parts-saw-with-bar-and-chain_W0QQitemZ330051288284QQihZ014QQcategoryZ85915QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Anybody think this one is worth $82?
http://cgi.ebay.com/STIHL-026-Chainsaw-NICE-parts-saw-with-bar-and-chain_W0QQitemZ330051288284QQihZ014QQcategoryZ85915QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Anybody think this one is worth $82?
highsiera
ArboristSite Operative
Just me talking, but a complete, or mostly complete Stihl saw on ebay that has a fried top end seems to be about 100 bucks before shipping, figure that's less a bar and chain. If it does have a bar and chain, my experience has been they're hammerred and you end up tossing them anyways. $100 is a number, you're going to pay up for the popular models, in Stihl terms, 026,036,044 etc... IMHO best bet is an 024,028, 034 parts are all over the place, easy to work on, and useful when you're finished.
Dan Forsh
Addicted to ArboristSite
It looks clean and tidy, so it probably hasn't done much. Assume it needs a piston and cylinder and add the cost of these + a couple other bits and pieces into the equation. If this is still in your price range, then why not?
I'd check the seller's feedback for what he buys and sells. If he does a lot of saws be more sceptical of what might be wrong with it. I would always steer clear of the guy who has a lot of history of dealing with saws but says "don't know what's wrong with it, haven't had time to look"
Quick conversion to $ I'd normally go up to about $120 for something genuinely described as that. Might be something in nothing.
Dan
I'd check the seller's feedback for what he buys and sells. If he does a lot of saws be more sceptical of what might be wrong with it. I would always steer clear of the guy who has a lot of history of dealing with saws but says "don't know what's wrong with it, haven't had time to look"
Quick conversion to $ I'd normally go up to about $120 for something genuinely described as that. Might be something in nothing.
Dan
Kneejerk Bombas
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Did you win it?gasman said:
You need to figure out what a saw is worth running, and add the worst case senerio cost for parts to repair it.
A 260 in the shape shown in the picture is worth what? $200 to $300? If it turns out to be a simple carb problem or something, $85 is a great deal. If it's a lower end problem, it's not such a good deal.
Here's the link to the pdf of Jennings book.. over 7mb. http://edj.net/2stroke/jennings/2stroketunershandbook.pdf
Ian
Ian
Mike Maas said:
No, It got away unfortunaly. My gut feeling was that it was not lower end and the plastic looked great Seller was not into chainsaw sales, he mostly sold beautiful hardwood boards of many varieties, plus he only wanted $13 for shipping. I bid up to 100 but someone put in another buck. I think Dan was on the money with the $120 estimate. But there is that risk.
Does it sound like I'm looking this logically? Would you agree that nice plastic likely indicates bottom half okay?
Here is an almost identical deal I'm looking at.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBI%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220051164380&rd=1&rd=1
Seems like modestly used 026 with fried top ends are common.
lumberinspector
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Other useful Books!
Do any of you have the Chainsaw Service Manual sold by Baileys in your collection?
If so, is it a good book to have? Helpful/useful for a beginner?
What are some other books you guys would reccommend?
Thanks
Do any of you have the Chainsaw Service Manual sold by Baileys in your collection?
If so, is it a good book to have? Helpful/useful for a beginner?
What are some other books you guys would reccommend?
Thanks
mattinky
Addicted to ArboristSite
No reason to be embarassed Gasman! You've got to start somewhere. I'm in the same boat as you - I just started fooling with saws myself. I've been a motorcycle mechanic for about 20 years, specializing in 2-stroke dirt bikes so I do have a good working knowledge of these engines but they are somewhat different from motorcycles. I got my buddies ancient Sears saw running great tonight so that's a major hurdle for me. The main thing I need to learn is how these little carbs work! I'm new here and I'll be asking lots of questions myself. One thing you will need to learn about is the fact that 2-stroke engines must be airtight, air leaks are probably the most common cause of piston seizures and overheating. Leaking crankshaft seals will drive you crazy and destroy engines in a heartbeat. Now can anybody fill me in on how these little carbs work?................
Matt :greenchainsaw:
Matt :greenchainsaw:
blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
mattinky said:
well, the biggest difference in normal slidetype carbs used in dirtbikes and carbs used in chainsaws is the vacuum/overpressure gasoline pump in them, which allows saws to work in every angle possiple... Otherwise its pretty much our standard carb with adjustable jets...
oldsaw
"Been There, Milled That"
Keep us posted. I see a lot of them around. Had been beating up a pawnshop owner for one over a couple of months but he wouldn't sell for "my price". His price was dang near retail, and it looked about that shape.
Have fun. Great little saw.
mark
Have fun. Great little saw.
mark
I got it! When I saw the package in the hall I almost peed my pants. (Okay maybe a few drops)
Fired it up this morning. Second choke pull burped, then started first pull.
Chain runs fast on run and I can't throttle or it stalls. Do I need to adjust the carb, or is something wrong with the throttle? Where would I start the adjustment on the carb of 029 AV super. 40-1 mix super gas.
Thanks for the help guys.
Fired it up this morning. Second choke pull burped, then started first pull.
Chain runs fast on run and I can't throttle or it stalls. Do I need to adjust the carb, or is something wrong with the throttle? Where would I start the adjustment on the carb of 029 AV super. 40-1 mix super gas.
Thanks for the help guys.
blis said:
That wasn't too hard. She accelerates and idles good now. I can't seem to hear any differences with the H jet so I've left it in the factory position for now.
The starter control is in fact needing some work. The position it appears to be in does not correspond with what it actually is. And it won't shut of without alot of playing with the switch. Pictures coming soon.
bobbyb13 said:
Relative to you I'm in the major world center of Richmond (also got a place in the woods) Thanks for the offer.
As per rb's request here are some pics. They won't be too exciting for all the experienced saw people. I need to do something so my camera will take better macro pictures. The exhaust picture could really stand to be better. piston looks good however.
The saw does make a holy mess of oil. It seems to be pouring off the bottom of the case. Maybe that is an adjustment I can make :monkey:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/estein11/sawforwebleft.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/estein11/sawforwebtop.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/estein11/sawforwebright.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/estein11/carbcropforweb.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/estein11/sawforwebbottom.jpg
The pictures are without the bar, don't worry I adjusted the carb with old b&c
I hope I'm not killing you guys with this newbie stuff. You gotta start somewhere I guess. Hopefully I'll catch on soon.
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