noodling helpers

[Kevin in Ohio]

It's not. The idea is to make a chunk of wood that you can carry or lift onto the tailgate. Sometimes you need four chunks and when it really gets big, I need six. My log splitter is often 30 miles or more from the job site where I cut the big rounds.

What most do not realize is that when you cut with the log's grain (parallel to it), the wear and tear on the saw's chain is not much more than bucking across the grain. It is as if you are planing the wood and that is what produces the long noodles.

I split everything where it lays when it is bigger. Just back down the log length, split, throw the splits to the sides. Then back the truck down the same path and load from both sides. Everyone has to do what works best for their situation. Noodling just isn't in my wheel house.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Usually when noodleing the saw is running at or near full throttle all he way through a big chunk of wood.I don't like holding wide open throttle for an extended period of time on any gas engine.My opinion "hard on the saw" YMMV.

Most small gas engines are air cooled and I've heard running at 3,600 rpm, or close to it, is how they cool efficiently.
But this is interesting because I just picked up a new Honda GX 200 and am reading the manual about rated hp, which is now 'net power'.
A GX 160 net power is 3.6 kW (4.8 bhp) at 3,600 rpm; Max. net torque is 10.3 N.m, (7.6 lbf.ft) at 2,500 rpm.
The GX 200 net power 4.3 kW (5.8 bhp) at 3,600 rpm; Max net torque is 12.4 N.m (9.1 lbf.ft) at 2,500 rpm.

So do I run it at 2,500 rpm for max torque or 3,600 for max bhp to run a hydraulic pump designed to run at 3,600 rpm?

I'm guessing 3,600 for the hydraulic pump and engine cooling efficiently. (and change oil regularly)
I run saws full throttle under load.
Run SuperSplit about 3,300 or more.
GX 160 on conveyor about the same.
DR chipper w/18 hp twin B & S didn't have a throttle. Ran wide open from start up to shut off.
Comments/thoughts.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I split everything where it lays when it is bigger. Just back down the log length, split, throw the splits to the sides. Then back the truck down the same path and load from both sides. Everyone has to do what works best for their situation. Noodling just isn't in my wheel house.

But, even with a hydraulic splitter, you cannot split big elm, cottonwood, and others when green. They can all be noodle cut for hauling. That's the situation I am in. So, I noodle cut and save the noodles whenever I can for lighting the stove or I sell them to horse owners for their stables.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

But, even with a hydraulic splitter, you cannot split big elm, cottonwood, and others when green. They can all be noodle cut for hauling. That's the situation I am in. So, I noodle cut and save the noodles whenever I can for lighting the stove or I sell them to horse owners for their stables.

I don't noodle and split everything, crotches and all. Maybe be a full cycle run on stringy stuff but once I lift them, they don't hit the ground or truck till they are to size.

 

[GVS]

I thought I'd give this idea a try. Just a little something to help keep the rounds off the ground while I do the noodling. Works pretty well. Holds the two halves in place if I need to noodle them in thirds, like I did here. (My sons need to be able to lift them onto the splitter). Your thoughts?

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For whatever reason I couldn't reply to Sandhill's post on page 3.What he writes is true but he's talking about 4 stroke engines and they can be run at GOVERENED RPM (3600) all day or until they run out of gas. They can run faster but that's what the govenor holds them to with the throttle lever pushed all the way up.I run them at about 3000 or less,depending on what I'm doing I run my saws at full chat while in the cut but like everyone else get off the throttle when out of the cut so it gets a break every 30 or 40 seconds When noodling you might be running wide open for 60+ seconds.I don't care to do that

 

[turnkey4099]

When I need to do a lot of noodling, I use these supports that I made in my shop:
View attachment 689864They work very well. LOML said I should have got a patent for them. However, I must admit that a couple of 16" long branch logs about 4" dia. and even some loose bark both work in a pinch.

I just push a couple of the 'to be noodled' chunks together and lay the chunks in the 'V' between them. Usually results in the chunks to be noodled around 8" or more above the ground. Higher is better when noodling. I should build something that raises them to waist level, my back doesn't take to stopping over anymore.

 

[NSMaple1]

Not quite grasping lifting rounds in the air to noodle them, to avoid lifting them onto a splitter to split them.

Especially when they can usually be rolled to and tipped onto a vertical splitter and split.

Once they are noodled, you are pretty well forced to lift everything from then on - they sure won't roll anymore.

Of course, if we all had a setup like Kevin, we wouldn't need to do no rolling or lifting.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

If you have a way to lift logs on a cutting table that works pretty good. Several people on the Arboriste Site use them. Sometimes because of the weight, I still need to noodle large rounds before splitting. I do this to protect my back and knees, and they split much easier on a SuperSplit once they are halved.
When splitting large full rounds I need to place one half back on the cutting bench anyway to have room to work the other half, so noodling on the bench saves moving large pieces as well.

 

[Franny K]

So do I run it at 2,500 rpm for max torque or 3,600 for max bhp to run a hydraulic pump designed to run at 3,600 rpm?


Comments/thoughts.

That kind of engine is designed so if it is loaded to the point it slows torque increases. Run it faster than max torque is probably the idea the designer had in mind. Probably would be best set up to have the relief valve open instead of engine slow, so a noise vs speed choice would be how I approach the question.

No comment as to pump designed for a specific rpm.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Maybe we need to go back to what OP said at Post #1:

"I thought I'd give this idea a try. Just a little something to help keep the rounds off the ground while I do the noodling. Works pretty well. Holds the two halves in place if I need to noodle them in thirds, like I did here. (My sons need to be able to lift them onto the splitter). Your thoughts?"

I think the forum wandered astray.

 

[Franny K]

The picture in post 1 looks like the two sections with pt 4x4 can be sild to hold the round. Most likely much smaller rounds won't break in half and fall between the 4x4's on their own. The shortcomings have been noted, cutting into the ground and the ability to roll it higher while it is still a round.

A lot of pictures on this site, not the firewood section only seem there is some lumber value that is getting cut up.

 

[jchipps]

I thought I'd give this idea a try. Just a little something to help keep the rounds off the ground while I do the noodling. Works pretty well. Holds the two halves in place if I need to noodle them in thirds, like I did here. (My sons need to be able to lift them onto the splitter). Your thoughts?

View attachment 688988 View attachment 688989 View attachment 688990

Looks like your cradles work pretty good, and your kids being out there helping is great I'm sure.
My kids used to help me with splitting and it was always a fun experience.

I don't do much firewood noodling, as I have access to a lot of reasonable sized wood so I try avoiding the real big stuff for convenience sake.
My splitter will go vertical when I have rounds too big to lift, but I admit, I don't enjoy vertical splitting at all, or wrestling them onto the foot.

When i noodle a big round, I just cut down through it about 3/4 the way through, then roll it 180, and finish the cut. If it needs quartered etc. to handle - I just repeat the procedure, flip it over, and finish the cut.

Nothing wrong with using your cradles if it's convenient. I'm just not understanding the need to prop the wood up on anything at all.

I'm curious, please explain.

 

[Cody]

One of the biggest problems with “noodling” logs is the mess. Noodles are loaded with bar oil. Not recommended for chicken bedding or much else. Switching to canola would make them more environmentally friendly but I would still not use them for chicken bedding.

I'd sure like your answer as to how much oil you really think makes it into the noodles. Experience with my chickens says it works just fine. IF you've got factual information to make sense of that post, as mentioned, I'd like to see it.

Usually when noodleing the saw is running at or near full throttle all he way through a big chunk of wood.I don't like holding wide open throttle for an extended period of time on any gas engine.My opinion "hard on the saw" YMMV.

Stumping is far harder on a saw than any type of noodling. I've noodled with a 36" bar on my 661 and it's not that difficult. If I were to follow that kind of advice I'd be better off never pulling the rope to run my chainsaw. Wow...they're a tool, and as I've said, they're replaceable. My back isn't. I don't have a fancy log splitter, I don't always have access to machinery, and I doubt many of you can split the rounds this large to move them. For me, noodling rounds is much easier than most of the alternatives. I highly doubt any part of my saws is going to get more worn out doing this. Maybe people should stop milling with their chainsaws as well?

 

[jchipps]

I'd sure like your answer as to how much oil you really think makes it into the noodles. Experience with my chickens says it works just fine. IF you've got factual information to make sense of that post, as mentioned, I'd like to see it.

I second that motion. ^ I'd love to see the proof too.
When I read that BS about the "bar oil soaked" noodling shavings being bad for the chickens and "of course" the environment (can't forget that one) it's their favorite catch phrase .... I was like, REALLY! Can we not even escape that kind of 'madness' in a wood cutting forum! Lol
Heck, a lot of guys only wish their bars oiled that well! and some greasy chicken .... I mean 'bar oily' chicken.

 

[grizz55chev]

Milling is hard on a saw, noodling is not. Cutting the end grain takes way more work for the chain than cutting with the grain.

 

[Husky Man]

I gotta Wonder just how many of these guys are Afraid of Wearing Out their Hammers, Driving Nails?

I for one, am sure not going to lose any sleep over Noodling, Milling, Bucking, Cross Cutting, Falling or Limbing with my saws, They're TOOLS, and that is what I bought them for. I use the best tool for the job at hand, I don't throw a 32" bar on my 353 Husky and try to mill 26" seasoned Oak, and I sure don't mount a 14" Bar on my 3120XP for Limbing. Pick the tool best suited to what I am doing, and use them for what they were made for, if I do manage to wear a saw out( My 266XP was bought New in 91, still Ripping) Well, then I guess that's why I work, and I will buy another, I USE, but try Not to ABUSE my tools, and they may some day wear out, that is a part of life.

My tools get Used, not just sit on a shelf lookin Purty, but that Old 266, sure feels good in the hands, and can still quicken the Pulse.


Doug

 

[Husky Man]

Oh and for what it's worth, even milling, unless you have a helper, the saw isn't running WOT for long periods of time, you still need to stop, and drive wedges to keep the cut open every so often.

I have yet to feel like I am Abusing or asking too much of my 3120, while milling, like any other type of cutting keep the chains SHARP, and DON'T FORCE the saw, anyone that has done much cutting, should be able to feel when the saw is in it's "Happy Zone" even milling, let the saw set the pace, and the wear and tear won't be that big of a deal, on the tool or the operator, force the saw, and it will take a Toll on both Man and Machine.


Doug

 

[turnkey4099]

I gotta Wonder just how many of these guys are Afraid of Wearing Out their Hammers, Driving Nails?

I for one, am sure not going to lose any sleep over Noodling, Milling, Bucking, Cross Cutting, Falling or Limbing with my saws, They're TOOLS, and that is what I bought them for. I use the best tool for the job at hand, I don't throw a 32" bar on my 353 Husky and try to mill 26" seasoned Oak, and I sure don't mount a 14" Bar on my 3120XP for Limbing. Pick the tool best suited to what I am doing, and use them for what they were made for, if I do manage to wear a saw out( My 266XP was bought New in 91, still Ripping) Well, then I guess that's why I work, and I will buy another, I USE, but try Not to ABUSE my tools, and they may some day wear out, that is a part of life.

My tools get Used, not just sit on a shelf lookin Purty, but that Old 266, sure feels good in the hands, and can still quicken the Pulse.


Doug

Right on!! As for the 'right tool for the job' my minimum tool load when I head out to a scrounge is the top handle 14", MS362 usually with a 20" bar and the MS441 with a 24/28/32 bar to suit the size of logs I will be bucking. Going from limbing to bucking, drop the top handle and grab one of the others and back to cutting in an instant.

 

[CentaurG2]

I'd sure like your answer as to how much oil you really think makes it into the noodles. Experience with my chickens says it works just fine. IF you've got factual information to make sense of that post, as mentioned, I'd like to see it.

I don t think you need to be Dr. Spock to figure out that the bar oil is going somewhere. It is either on the ground, the cut or in the noodles. Now you can do whatever you want, but in my book neither chickens or eggs should be marinated in bar oil. You like to eat that stuff, knock yourself out. I bet you don’t have any problems with scaly leg mites.

 

[Cody]

I don t think you need to be Dr. Spock to figure out that the bar oil is going somewhere. It is either on the ground, the cut or in the noodles. Now you can do whatever you want, but in my book neither chickens or eggs should be marinated in bar oil. You like to eat that stuff, knock yourself out. I bet you don’t have any problems with scaly leg mites.

Simple, I don't eat the shell. Knowing what I know about eggs, they're just fine, you do know where exactly a chicken egg comes from right? Marinated makes it sound pretty extreme, you used the word well but again, knowledge prevails.