not much of a face cut

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Its still just three cuts. Only sometimes do i leave the strap top pop from behind.

I've cut more than a handful of 4' plus red oaks, poplars, white oaks with a bore.
 
I do cut one that deep when falling snags that have no top weight.
Those are a pain arent they?
The first time I cut down a big swell butt cedar snag that was only about 20ft. tall I put what I thought was a big undercut in it. Cut the hinge up to almost nothing and spent about half a day wedging on it. Nothing to hit it with like another tree. Finally got it over about quiting time and crawled out to the crummy. I asked some other guys how they got them down.
Make the first cut of the face in until it starts to set down on your bar. Its always around halfway in. It worked and sure made the next one easier. Its the only way to fall something that is shaped like a small tipi with the top missing unless you have something to pull or push with.
 
speaking of cats, my cutting partner pulled in a perfect condition roadkill bobcat he found on the way to work. Planned to skin it at the end of the day, but it got a little warm out today.....

Hell of an animal, sorry to see it go that way, a real waste, but what a specimen, what an athlete. Now, back to bashing.

BTW, as far as wedgin goes, when falling a block, I look at which way its going to be logged out, the slope, and the average lean tot he stand (which always has a downhill component), and cut all my trees to best fit all three. I maybe slip a wedge in every tenth tree, and actually have to give it a couple knocks every 20th tree. 1/40 have to get hit hard, 1/100 I'm double stacking. Some go fast, some just barely creak around, but by and large, they go on their own.
 
what a waste of gas and oil and time in that video.
i agree,in the old days a good two mann crosscut crew could have got it down faster,maybe a bit of an overstatement but,im thinking the guys on a day wage for sure.if anyone in these parts saw me cutting on a tree that way they would be certain i had lost my mind:dizzy:
 
Without going too much into the discussion about bore cut or not I am still amazed that a lot of people have the impression that you have to make your cut 1/3 into the tree.

The general rule is more likely to be 1/5 or 1/6 which is a lot shorter/smaller than many guys cut.

I know it is a small tree but I don't care what anybody says Tim Ard knows exactly what he is doing. The fun begins at 3:15 and 4:07:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFTOlmCijjs&feature=related


I think his saw sounds bad###:chainsaw:





QUOTE=WoodViking;1733365]
"Without going too much into the discussion about bore cut or not I am still amazed that a lot of people have the impression that you have to make your cut 1/3 into the tree."


mabe you dont have enough experience to know any better,

&nd thats what you think...

but you & your buds are a joke in my book and im young as hell ha ha....
 
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Forest Circus

"This is how they teach in the Forest Service, and other places...


I've never seen an FS faller use this technique, or recommend it, or even mention it. The FS (at least here in the PNW) uses the 'ol reliable 1/3 diameter face cut/notch then back cut method."


=========

From Missouri east it does happen in some Forest Service locations. This reflects he way GOL has caught on back there. Hey, they have got the OSHA site to say that Open Face is clearly safer.

On the West Coast in the FS the GOL stuff is regarded as better entertainment than a horny dog and a football.

- - - - -

Mr John Ellison is correct. To the guy that posted about you don't need to go but 1/5th of the way for a face you're without a clue on bigger trees.

Open Face was developed in the smaller sized Northern Latitudes of Scandanavia - second growth - for the purpose of maximum utilization of a limited size resource.
The small face can result in greater utilization but it is a compromise. Any time you make a compromise, think about how that relates to your safety.

--------

On the video. Look at the body posture. Bent over at the max - exposing the largest section of spine possible - while studying the face like a #### movie - no awareness of anything else around - I suppose he could have put an arrow pointing to the target on his back with a double dawg dare ya sign...........
 
"This is how they teach in the Forest Service, and other places...


I've never seen an FS faller use this technique, or recommend it, or even mention it. The FS (at least here in the PNW) uses the 'ol reliable 1/3 diameter face cut/notch then back cut method."


=========

From Missouri east it does happen in some Forest Service locations. This reflects he way GOL has caught on back there. Hey, they have got the OSHA site to say that Open Face is clearly safer.

On the West Coast in the FS the GOL stuff is regarded as better entertainment than a horny dog and a football.

- - - - -

Mr John Ellison is correct. To the guy that posted about you don't need to go but 1/5th of the way for a face you're without a clue on bigger trees.

Open Face was developed in the smaller sized Northern Latitudes of Scandanavia - second growth - for the purpose of maximum utilization of a limited size resource.
The small face can result in greater utilization but it is a compromise. Any time you make a compromise, think about how that relates to your safety.

--------

On the video. Look at the body posture. Bent over at the max - exposing the largest section of spine possible - while studying the face like a #### movie - no awareness of anything else around - I suppose he could have put an arrow pointing to the target on his back with a double dawg dare ya sign...........

Well said.
 
Kids

QUOTE=WoodViking;1733365]
"Without going too much into the discussion about bore cut or not I am still amazed that a lot of people have the impression that you have to make your cut 1/3 into the tree."


mabe you dont have enough experience to know any better,

&nd thats what you think...

but you & your buds are a joke in my book and im young as hell ha ha....


This post says a lot more about you then anybody else. When you grow up and loose the childish angle you look at things from then you will have a different opinion about a lot of aspects of life - on this one too.
 
This post says a lot more about you then anybody else. When you grow up and loose the childish angle you look at things from then you will have a different opinion about a lot of aspects of life - on this one too.

I bet this "kid" could out cut you 3:1...
what do you think of them apples?????


we all know im young and I have alot to learn, but I know enough to go to work, come home safe with the bread, and do it all again the next day. but we also know that "children" are naturally gifted when it comes to timber falling right? pft...

you can go make your 1/6 notch on a heavy side leaner and watch it plummet to its desired lay taking 1/6 of the stump with it, I will stick with my 'childish' methods...


Yall haters love to pull the "kid" card on me when you dont like what i am saying, hahaha



grow up!!
 
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Dont change the subject wood viking..


we all know im young and I have alot to learn, but I know enough to go to work, come home safe with the bread, and do it all again the next day. but we also know that "children" are naturally gifted when it comes to timber falling right? pft...

you can go make your 1/6 notch on a heavy side leaner and watch it plummet to its desired lay taking 1/6 of the stump with it, I will stick with my 'childish' methods...


Yall haters love to pull the "kid" card on me when you dont like what i am saying, hahaha



grow up!!



Just to make that straight I am not a "hater" internet forums are not enough to make me hate anybody or anything. And I am definently not calling your methods childish - It's your attitude I am referring to.

You can do it the way you prefer but from what you say and the way you say it my guess is that you have had no training at all. I just want to show you how more experienced and better trained guys do it. And Tim Ard is definently a lot more skilled and a lot better trained than you and me.

Take it easy and tell us how you feel about things but a good advise would be to turn down the attitude thing - because that is what makes people "pull the kid card". And I will bet a full grown saw collection that a lot of us had exactly the same attitude as you do when we were younger but for some reason that changed with time.
 
that was a painstakingly slow falling job in my book

So you lost how much time and money today because some guy on the internet was slow at felling a tree?

Id rather him be slow and safe then slap a notch in, gun the backcut in and have the tree fall on him.
 
So you lost how much time and money today because some guy on the internet was slow at felling a tree?

Id rather him be slow and safe then slap a notch in, gun the backcut in and have the tree fall on him.

i dont want the guy to get hurt either,but the less time you spend at the stump gnawing on it the safer you are to me?3 cuts is all that is required of any tree that i have ever seen,(unless its a large tree then 6 cuts)that guy went around the tree almost twice stumbling in the brush all the way,if it were me i would have gunned that tree with both feet firmly planted in the same spot until it was time to clear the area and i would hve used my standard 30degree away from direction of fall cleared path for a clear escape route what that guy was doing was not safe at all to me.
 
if it were me i would have gunned that tree with both feet firmly planted in the same spot until it was time to clear

Exactly "if it were me". Different ways to skin the same cat.

Just because its not "how you do it", or "doesn't look safe on a 1 camera angle shot" doesn't mean that it isn't a valid way to do the job. You can't see the crown of the tree, or the surrounding environment. There's many ways to fell a tree and that just happened to be one of them.
 

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