Notch Configurations

[Lumberjack]

Shat. Thats what it was. I reread what I could find on AS, and remembered.

The picture is of a full step dutchman. It forces the hinge to break early and can actually make the top land farther away from the tree or stump.


Butch, what was the name of that book you sent? I believe the authors name was Douglas Dent or Bent.

I appologize, I was mistaken. I was wrong. In my mind, I saw the pic of the step dutchman on the left (in butch's book) and the snipe was somewhere around there, probably on the right page.

 

[Bremen]

You're probably talking about "Professional Timber Falling" by Douglas Dent.

I asked a few bookstores about it and they gave me real funny looks.. "You want what??". Bailey's has it though, $15.

 

[Lumberjack]

Yeah thats the one.

 

[MasterBlaster]

 

[Lumberjack]

Na, it was the "Professional Timber Falling" by Douglas Dent that I was talkin about.

That one too tho.

 

[MasterBlaster]

Originally posted by Lumberjack
Na, it was the "Professional Timber Falling" by Douglas Dent that I was talkin about.

That one too tho.

Cool.

But I learned it in Jerry's book.

I got Dent's book later.

 

[Lumberjack]

I was refering to where I got it, and then got confused. I can still remember the pic and everything, I just got the captions backward, so my wording was wrong.

Both were good books tho, thanks. (It cost me 23 somthing to send them back)

PS All you had to do was sign the mentor thing for school, I did it.

 

[Lumberjack]

I removed my foot from my mouth, when I got used to the taste

 

[topnotchtree]

I was once told, made sense to me, that when logging you should alwaye use a humbolt notch. Using a conventional notch, would tear fibers from the inside of the log as the hinge wood breaks. For example, when looking at a stump, after the log has been dropped, I often see slivers of wood sticking up from stump. which have been pulled from the center of the log. I was told that sometimes these slivers can be pulled from mant feet up the log, wasting the log from lumber. Am I making any sense? Is this true?

 

[MasterBlaster]

To the best of my knowledge, yes. It is not something you want. I always got chewed out when I did it, so I stopped.

 

[topnotchtree]

So what did you do to stop it? cut thru your hingewood a little faster? open your face up more? change to the humbolt notch?

 

[MasterBlaster]

Pretty much just cut thru the hinge quicker, but not too quick. I rarely get the chance to throw whole trees. They have usually been stripped to a snag, taking a lot of the weight that would pull the fibers out of the equation.

 

[topnotchtree]

Here is another thought...when I am dropping big stuff. I make my backcut just a hair above the bottom cut of the notch. A little lower that most books teach you. In my mind, if the backcut is high, as the tree goes over, the hinge will at one point snap free and the log will drop to the stump, then the ground. A less controlled fall. If my backcut is low, it just seems to me the hinge holds together better. Is anyone following me here?

 

[Timberjackboy]

Notch

Use the which ever notch you think is best, not every tre is going to come down perfect no matrter wahat notch. and if she elaning the wrong was shove it over with the skidder

 

[topnotchtree]

Maybe I am thinking too deep on certain things. I was just looking for opinions. Or if anyone else has the same goofy thoughts as I do.

 

[Climber2]

I agree that a lower back cut will hinge better. To reduce fiber pull from the log I will poke the bar tip through the center of the hinge as long as I don't need to swing the tree very far. Of course direction is more important than pull from a log.

Mike