idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
Hmm, may need to fine the ones that don't require splitting the clamshell
395xp seals update
- Thread starter GoBigBlue1984
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backhoelover
Free service manuals and service tool info
page 26 on the 290 310 390 manual
backhoelover
Free service manuals and service tool info
sorry page 27
backhoelover
Free service manuals and service tool info
there are hard and soft seal the hard seals cant be pressed in. so if you take the engine apart and it has soft seal you are suppost to install the hard seals
I've had good luck with the 290/390 seals using celophane tape and some lube, slide the seal ove the clip lip and pull the tape off. Also the OEM seals are much more betterer for "sliding on" then most of the AM ones I've tried.
Maybe @fearofpavement or @Saw Dr. might jump in w some clamshell advice.
Sorry OP I can't see the lips well enough from pics to offer any help/words of encouragement. I can say once I roll a seal lip I toss it.
Thats what I use. Micro fish film rolls nicely into a cone. It works well with saws with the seals in the oil pump like 288s 266s ect.old micro fish works great got tons of them and any one want some, I have all the seal protecting tools for husqvarna and stihl
RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
Just installed the crank in one case half of the 394 I'm working on last night. I experienced the same issue. This is NOT what you want to happen. I ended up removing the bearing, carefully tapping the seal out, re-installing the bearing, pressing the crank in, and THEN installing the seal. As I was getting the seal started with my fingers I used an eyeglasses flat screwdriver to carefully work the lip of the seal over the shoulder of the crankshaft. Once I got it started I was able to tap it home with a deep well socket.
Seems as though this would be less likely to happen if there was a little bit of taper to the crankshaft where it steps up to the seal and bearing surface. But that abrupt shoulder catches the lip of the seal no matter how careful you try to be and despite lubricating the crank and seal.
Seems as though this would be less likely to happen if there was a little bit of taper to the crankshaft where it steps up to the seal and bearing surface. But that abrupt shoulder catches the lip of the seal no matter how careful you try to be and despite lubricating the crank and seal.
All the crank seals I've installed look just like they did in the package. Usually the lip of the rubber seal is slightly inside of the outer edge of the metal jacket. The rubber seals in the photos look like they are protruding out too far. The internal springs probably came off. If they did come off, you should get a fair to good vacuum, but it will not hold pressure well, if at all. It is best to remove them and replace them using the thin shim method listed here. I have had good luck with a warm and well oiled seal and crankshaft and twisting them on slowly past the shoulder. I must admit I've not done my 395xp yet.
