Notching Tree's

[talon1189]

Just wondering about how deep into the trunk should the first notch be? I thought I read somewhere it should be about 1/3rd of the diameter What are your opinions as I am not sure :help: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Talon

 

[BostonBull]

1/3 the diamater and cut a level backcut into the apex of the notch and leave roughly 10% of the diameter for hingewood. So on a 20" tree leave 1-2" hingewood depending on lean and rot etc etc.........

This is going o be good. opcorn:

 

[Lakeside53]

uh oh.... Brutus is in for a good crushin' again! You be nice to that muffler

 

[04ultra]

Stop pounding Brutus in as a wedge....:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


Use little bubba from now on.. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[talon1189]

Stop pounding Brutus in as a wedge....:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


Use little bubba from now on.. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

Hey you clowns :jester: I never ever want Brutus to get pinched again dammit............My wallet got pinched BIGTIME today so I bought a "felling wedge" today........And stop with the "wedgey jokes" before they even start dammit :hmm3grin2orange: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Talon

 

[Lakeside53]

Just one???

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

1/3 can be used as general guideline, but to consider that a blanket percentage would be faulty. There's many considerations to take into account. Some trees can take as much as 50% depending on lean, some, less depending on diameter and how much back cut you may need for wedge. Another consideration not directly related to face depth, but indirectly affecting it is how aggressively you may need to wedge it. You hinge placement will determine the leverage your wedge puts on the trunk. A more shallow backcut will put more leverage into the tree, but more stress as well, but may also stress your holding wood more than is desired.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Just one???

My thought as well. Wedges should be sold in at least pairs and triples. Using one wedge is like wearing one shoe. You can get around hopping on one foot, but someday you're gonna have to walk or run.


>>>Ya beat me Andy-
Andy- 3,967
Me- 3

 

[04ultra]

>>>Ya beat me Andy-
Andy- 3,967
Me- 3

Jeff your catching up...



.

 

[Lakeside53]

My thought as well. Wedges should be sold in at least pairs and triples. Using one wedge is like wearing one shoe. You can get around hopping on one foot, but someday you're gonna have to walk or run.


>>>Ya beat me Andy-
Andy- 3,967
Me- 3

I couldn't have said it better!

In any case,

Brutus is TOAST.

Hey Tallon, maybe you should cut wood on the round for a while

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

I couldn't have said it better!

So is that a point for me? I'm going to count it as one, even though I was elaborating on one of your posts. I gotta catch up somehow.

 

[talon1189]

1/3 can be used as general guideline, but to consider that a blanket percentage would be faulty. There's many considerations to take into account. Some trees can take as much as 50% depending on lean, some, less depending on diameter and how much back cut you may need for wedge. Another consideration not directly related to face depth, but indirectly affecting it is how aggressively you may need to wedge it. You hinge placement will determine the leverage your wedge puts on the trunk. A more shallow backcut will put more leverage into the tree, but more stress as well, but may also stress your holding wood more than is desired.

Awwww........That's just great.........now I need more than 1 wedge :hmm3grin2orange: I work residential only part time and never have cut more than 14" diameter and won't cuz I do not have the proper equipment to do it right. A 2nd wedge will cut into da damn profits
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Talon

 

[oldsaw]

Wedges are kind of like saws. I don't go anywhere without half a dozen of them...twice as many as the number of saws I typically take.

Mark

 

[talon1189]

Wedges are kind of like saws. I don't go anywhere without half a dozen of them...twice as many as the number of saws I typically take.

Mark

Thanks "oldsaw"............I am still a newbie and am always willing to learn Like I said.......I do not cut over 14" with Brutus How many wedges do I need? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Talon

 

[tek9tim]

Something else you missed is stump shot. You aren't aiming to put your backcut right into the apex of your face, but rather at least 1-2 inches above it. A good trick I use on trees the size you say you cut is to put my dog in just above the corner of the face, level the saw, and pivot off the dog. Of course, I have real dogs on my saws, not the sissy ones that come on half wrap saws, so this trick works. Perhaps more help to others than you. Sorry. BUT, back to my original point. The stump shot is important because it keeps the butt of the tree from swinging back should the top hit something. Of course, a humboldt diminishes the need for such a thing, but still won't hurt in that situation either. Basically comes down to the fact that the point the tree is pivoting on is lower than the stump behind it. Don't worry, we'll get ya learned. But you might want to invest in some more wedges. Andy and Jeff are right.

 

[wagonwheeler]

I switched to Humbolts after reading so much about them here...for the few trees that I've dropped it's worked like a charm. And I have pinched a bar in the past year when a leaner sat back on my 361. But I took the powerhead off before going any further...then just put a line on it and tugged it over w/ the truck.

Question for the 'real' fallers . Is there an advantage to plunging thru the tree just behind the face cut and cutting out to the rear face for a portion of the back cut? I've seen that in some vids recently...just curious since I've seen very few videos of boring being used.

Chaser

 

[Ekka]

Is there an advantage to plunging thru the tree just behind the face cut and cutting out to the rear face for a portion of the back cut? I've seen that in some vids recently...just curious since I've seen very few videos of boring being used.

If you have a forward leaner it will extinguish the risk of barber chairing.

Also like on the recent side lean video, had I have bored the back cut and cut thru to the back of the tree it wouldn't have pinched the bar ... the smarty who suggested that won a hat.

Some people do it all the time, they are comfortable with it, try a few and see how you feel about them ... but make sure the bar is long enough.

 

[wagonwheeler]

Also like on the recent side lean video, had I have bored the back cut and cut thru to the back of the tree it wouldn't have pinched the bar ... the smarty who suggested that won a hat.

This was what I had surmised...that it would give the tree something to sit on till you could finish the back cut and also give you a place to stick a wedge or two.

I'm still gonna try and dig up more info on boring cuts...thanks for the insights!

Chaser

 

[tek9tim]

Yeah, that's a definite east coast favorite. I'll use the bore in backcut for heavy head leaners as Ekka said, but just don't mess around with it for normal falls. Uses way more energy and increases exposure time. To each their own. Game of Logging has more information on this kind of technique.

 

[wagonwheeler]

My thought as well. Wedges should be sold in at least pairs and triples. Using one wedge is like wearing one shoe. You can get around hopping on one foot, but someday you're gonna have to walk or run.

This may not have a straigtforward answer...not with this vicious crowd anyway...but what's the best size wedge for general use? I got the cheap Hi Viz greens in 10's and 7.5's from Baileys and really like 'em, especially the 7.5's but don't cut anything really massive.

I also see 'em as consumables and that's why I bought the least expensive. I should've bought more cause they're handy for other things as well...

Hey Talon, wanna split a case of 7.5's?

Chaser