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Mike,

Ha, can't sneak anything by ya.

Give it a break.... there is absolutely NO reason to guy a fir when zipping branches...period! (Unless there are structural defects, which are very rare in fir, even horribly topped ones.) Besides, we were hand tensioning the line. A car was in the way of our only possible anchor point. The guys were barely able to get the line tight enuf to clear the plants underneath. I had the zip attachments out as far as I could reach and lower line tied near the butts to allow for a fairly level aspect on the branches to be kept. When I came out so i could shoot pics, the car was gone, so we set up Z pulleys so John could handle the now smaller stuff by himself.

Alternatively, we have used the chipper winch, and a pick up for raising and/or turning branches, as a stronger and quicker option than a Z pulley. Maintaining a proper amount of zip line bight is key in lifting, and movement required at the movable anchor. These techniques work fine without guys, as long as finesse (read good communication) is used, and the tree is many times stronger than the loads being applied. this is always true with a big fir or hemlock, as the load is rarely more than a hundred pounds, before figuring multiplication of force from the tension applied. (Recently, I jumared 70 feet into an ivy covered fir just to lower two huge limbs over a house. They were 7-9" in diameter and 35 feet long, mighty huge for a never topped fir. So I'd reckon they weighed 300 lb each or more.)

And, no, we just free dropped the smaller high branches, then lowered the top. We never dump tops or wood onto the speedline, we know much better than to do that! Also, 72 KV lines were five feet from the high branch tips, so technically we were illegal there.
 
I'll stick with the Gibbs....too much pitch out west...


Heck, even my Vt on the climb line is wrecked til I wash out all the fir pitch from yesterday's trees. Last tree, I switched ends, used a blakes tied in the end, and tied it so long I could barely reach it. Rusty, huh, after the Vt use so much. But at least after I stretched up to grab it, it ran.....

And I want a bomb proof attachment for the steel core flip lines. Great setup for normal lanyards, though, for sure.....if there's no pitchy trees around... and that ain't here.... winter ain't so bad.....
 
Yeah, with Mike around, you can let anything go by.

Digital cameras: The lenses have a long way to go, but I believe they will improve quickly. Price & Quality....we'd like one to go down and one to go up, but we usually get high-quality, expensive stuff (PowerShot G2) or cheap, not-working/dead-on-delivery stuff (a $30 digital camera I bought).

Those trees are really something else... I enjoy seeing the pictures.

Nickrosis
 
i never tried useing a zip line set up. its looks great for the right situation. but it aslo seems like some waisted time. when doing a pine do you go to the top and tie in first and set up the zip line? or do you move it up as you go along? i just try and limb them out on my way up and butt tie the top. then chunck or butt tie the wood down. i hate going up and down the same piece of wood twice.
 
spike,

With a technical removal, requiring limb lifting, you have to mid or tip tie the speed line (or swing line). So that requires a lifeline set higher. I'll set it in a friction saver, a lower/contol/return line in a block, and the speed line up high. Then, I'll consider bight management, and perhaps sling a few branches on the way down. This will limit the bight in the speed line that will be straightened out as the branch is being swung or lifted.

Two more lifting tools are the Hobbs/GRCS, and my rope capstan winch powered by an 034 Super and 10000 lb double braid.

Any low stretch lowering line is fine for the zip line, but I use a friend's ultimate pulling line, Puget sound Rope's Plasma line. At 36,200 lb tensile at 1/2 inch, it is stronger than steel with the same nonexistant stretch. It is awesome for zipping wood, as long as it is caught first on a lower line to limit shock loading.

Zipping is time consuming, yes, but I have done many lately that either could not have been done any other way, or would have been complete nightmares.

Go back to my "Technical tree removal, let's talk" thread for a heck of a story..... The tree took us 93 manhrs including wood removal. Would have been less but i hadn't met my new crane guy. 17 ton boom truck, 20 foot platform, 87 feet of boom, and he leaves some weight on his tires, thus being easier on asphalt than most cranes. With him at a $205 min charge (WOW) we could have gotten the wood out in two hours, plus ~ 4 manhrs for crew, instead of some 25-30 hrs. My other boom truck only has 40 feet of reach, so we had to skid the logs with his cable, then delicately lift them over the landscape.

I just found another crane co. with 134 feet or reach and 50 tons of capacity, also only a 20 foot platform. He is cheap at $125 per hr. But for us to have wrecked the tree in the thread with a crane would have required over 150 feet of boom. This guy is called Crane Tree Service; they also have a stick crane with 160 or 180 feet of boom. They pick 100 foot plus doug firs from backyards with it, branches and all, and have been busy every day for the last 3 months. $2000 minimum charge. Lots of unnecessary removals, I'm sure...par for the course out here in evergreen country.

Wish I could get the kind of money for jobs as you, but there are too many companies out here. However, I have free dumps all over, and it's easy to give away the wood, or sell the logs. And my workman's comp is way low.

Rog
 
i guess a big problem is i work in very small back yards. about 1/3 of the jobs are attached house's. so we go threw the house with the tree. there are only so many places you could go with the tree. some times we have to explain to the customer we are going to destroy your garden. if you like we could do the tree fall or winter. i always wanted to run my chipper winch cable through a house.
i realy enjoy rigging jobs when tree's fall over on buildings etc. i find it a fun challenge to pull them off with out breaking a window. i once had to buy a 600 ft spool of 5/8 line because we needed a 450ft rope to set up a false crotch between 2 buldings. it was about 3 hours of seting ropes to make 5 cuts. the worst part of the job was coiling up all the ropes.
 
Gotcha,

I've heard there's lots of work like that in Britain.

I've only had to go through the house a few times. Tends to slow ya down a bit, eh?!!

My dad was born in Brooklyn, back in '98.....
 
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