Oil mix questions

[Geo019t]

I've read quite a few comments on oils, but very few re what it's mixed with. Using the same 2-cyce oil precisely mixed with off-brand lowest grade Ethanol gasoline purchased two years ago, stored in garage for lawn-mower use -- versus -- again, the same 2-cycle oil mixed with the highest-test fresh ethanol-free "name-brand" (e.g., Exxon) gasoline surely makes ALL the difference. But, again, the gasoline employed seems not to be mentioned. Just being "curious George" here. Kind of determining the best Vermouth to mix a martini when one mixer is using bargain off-brand vodka as opposed to a premium brand.

I ALWAYS use highest-test EXXON Ethanol-free gasoline, to which I pre-mix one ounce per gallon of Sea Foam (7.40 ml) and one ounce (2.5 ml) per two and one-half gallons of Sta-bil Storage. I pour this into a one-quart mix bottle, to which I add 23.66 milliliters of Red Armor. After a good shaking, this is now poured into an empty metal can from Stihl MotoMix and LABELED with the date. (The mix is 40:1; I recycle (pour into my truck's fuel tank) ALL I may have after no more than forty days!)

I am a recreational (?) chainsaw user, needing about ten face cord of firewood cut per year for my home heating. A "weekend warrior" with my Stihls! I always let each saw warm up for at least two minutes before cutting; and similar cool-down time when done. Unless my plans are to cut again the next day, I also drain fuel and - at idle speed -- let saw run out of fuel. (For an extended storage period I also drain (I use Amsoil) bar/chain oil... I have 14 Stihl's and 13 of them (the pole saw is exception) are drippers.)

What I do...

geo

 

[OM617YOTA]

I've read quite a few comments on oils, but very few re what it's mixed with. Using the same 2-cyce oil precisely mixed with off-brand lowest grade Ethanol gasoline purchased two years ago, stored in garage for lawn-mower use -- versus -- again, the same 2-cycle oil mixed with the highest-test fresh ethanol-free "name-brand" (e.g., Exxon) gasoline surely makes ALL the difference.

Welcome aboard.

Do some more reading, you'll find fuel is discussed extensively.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

I've read quite a few comments on oils, but very few re what it's mixed with. Using the same 2-cyce oil precisely mixed with off-brand lowest grade Ethanol gasoline purchased two years ago, stored in garage for lawn-mower use -- versus -- again, the same 2-cycle oil mixed with the highest-test fresh ethanol-free "name-brand" (e.g., Exxon) gasoline surely makes ALL the difference. But, again, the gasoline employed seems not to be mentioned. Just being "curious George" here. Kind of determining the best Vermouth to mix a martini when one mixer is using bargain off-brand vodka as opposed to a premium brand.

I ALWAYS use highest-test EXXON Ethanol-free gasoline, to which I pre-mix one ounce per gallon of Sea Foam (7.40 ml) and one ounce (2.5 ml) per two and one-half gallons of Sta-bil Storage. I pour this into a one-quart mix bottle, to which I add 23.66 milliliters of Red Armor. After a good shaking, this is now poured into an empty metal can from Stihl MotoMix and LABELED with the date. (The mix is 40:1; I recycle (pour into my truck's fuel tank) ALL I may have after no more than forty days!)

I am a recreational (?) chainsaw user, needing about ten face cord of firewood cut per year for my home heating. A "weekend warrior" with my Stihls! I always let each saw warm up for at least two minutes before cutting; and similar cool-down time when done. Unless my plans are to cut again the next day, I also drain fuel and - at idle speed -- let saw run out of fuel. (For an extended storage period I also drain (I use Amsoil) bar/chain oil... I have 14 Stihl's and 13 of them (the pole saw is exception) are drippers.)

What I do...

geo

I can't help but think that you are throwing money away adding Sta-Bil and Seafoam to Red Armor. Worse, you might be diluting the lubricative properties of the oil and attracting water to your fuel.
Red Armor already contains detergents and stabilizers, while Seafoam contains a hygrophillic alcohol.

As for the fuel itself, it should be the baseline that we are talking about new fuel from a reputable source, stored in clean, airtight containers. My saw usage is pretty similar to your own. My new policy is to just mix what I will use in a month or two, then I dump anything left over into the truck at the end of the season. If I need to start any equipment in the off season I am using canned fuel.

 

[bwalker]

I can't help but think that you are throwing money away adding Sta-Bil and Seafoam to Red Armor. Worse, you might be diluting the lubricative properties of the oil and attracting water to your fuel.
Red Armor already contains detergents and stabilizers, while Seafoam contains a hygrophillic alcohol.

As for the fuel itself, it should be the baseline that we are talking about new fuel from a reputable source, stored in clean, airtight containers. My saw usage is pretty similar to your own. My new policy is to just mix what I will use in a month or two, then I dump anything left over into the truck at the end of the season. If I need to start any equipment in the off season I am using canned fuel.

Seafoam is snakeoil... it doesn't help a 2 cycle motor in any way.

 

[bwalker]

I've read quite a few comments on oils, but very few re what it's mixed with. Using the same 2-cyce oil precisely mixed with off-brand lowest grade Ethanol gasoline purchased two years ago, stored in garage for lawn-mower use -- versus -- again, the same 2-cycle oil mixed with the highest-test fresh ethanol-free "name-brand" (e.g., Exxon) gasoline surely makes ALL the difference. But, again, the gasoline employed seems not to be mentioned. Just being "curious George" here. Kind of determining the best Vermouth to mix a martini when one mixer is using bargain off-brand vodka as opposed to a premium brand.

I ALWAYS use highest-test EXXON Ethanol-free gasoline, to which I pre-mix one ounce per gallon of Sea Foam (7.40 ml) and one ounce (2.5 ml) per two and one-half gallons of Sta-bil Storage. I pour this into a one-quart mix bottle, to which I add 23.66 milliliters of Red Armor. After a good shaking, this is now poured into an empty metal can from Stihl MotoMix and LABELED with the date. (The mix is 40:1; I recycle (pour into my truck's fuel tank) ALL I may have after no more than forty days!)

I am a recreational (?) chainsaw user, needing about ten face cord of firewood cut per year for my home heating. A "weekend warrior" with my Stihls! I always let each saw warm up for at least two minutes before cutting; and similar cool-down time when done. Unless my plans are to cut again the next day, I also drain fuel and - at idle speed -- let saw run out of fuel. (For an extended storage period I also drain (I use Amsoil) bar/chain oil... I have 14 Stihl's and 13 of them (the pole saw is exception) are drippers.)

What I do...

geo

Ethanol is what you want to avoid. Pump gasoline in this country is universally low in quality.
It's also about impossible to know who's making your fuel as it's all picked up at a bulk terminal in most cases.
Their is nothing special about ExxonMobil gasoline either.

 

[Geo019t]

Ethanol is what you want to avoid. Pump gasoline in this country is universally low in quality.
It's also about impossible to know who's making your fuel as it's all picked up at a bulk terminal in most cases.
Their is nothing special about ExxonMobil gasoline either.

Thanks for comments! Where I reside there are only two "name brand" stations -- EXXON, and Sunoco, plus two quickie-marts with no branded gasoline. Maybe it was a one-shot deal, but I bought EXXON and Sunoco Ethanol-Free -- Sunoco (higher octane) being my hopeful choice -- but when I filled the plastic Ethanol-test-kit jar (REV X E85 Super Tester Reusable Ethanol Testing Kit -- purchased from Amazon) -- the EXXON fuel showed ZERO Ethanol, whereas the Sunoco showed between four and five per-cent! (Both have pumps with dedicated hoses, and I had filled 5-gallon jugs first, to eliminate any possible residuals in hoses.) Again, maybe on the day I did the check there was an "oops!" from truck which filled underground storage tanks, or??? But, this is what made me switch to EXXON -- both a further drive for me to get it and generally a few cents more costly per gallon.

 

[Sidecarflip]

I've read quite a few comments on oils, but very few re what it's mixed with. Using the same 2-cyce oil precisely mixed with off-brand lowest grade Ethanol gasoline purchased two years ago, stored in garage for lawn-mower use -- versus -- again, the same 2-cycle oil mixed with the highest-test fresh ethanol-free "name-brand" (e.g., Exxon) gasoline surely makes ALL the difference. But, again, the gasoline employed seems not to be mentioned. Just being "curious George" here. Kind of determining the best Vermouth to mix a martini when one mixer is using bargain off-brand vodka as opposed to a premium brand.

I ALWAYS use highest-test EXXON Ethanol-free gasoline, to which I pre-mix one ounce per gallon of Sea Foam (7.40 ml) and one ounce (2.5 ml) per two and one-half gallons of Sta-bil Storage. I pour this into a one-quart mix bottle, to which I add 23.66 milliliters of Red Armor. After a good shaking, this is now poured into an empty metal can from Stihl MotoMix and LABELED with the date. (The mix is 40:1; I recycle (pour into my truck's fuel tank) ALL I may have after no more than forty days!)

I am a recreational (?) chainsaw user, needing about ten face cord of firewood cut per year for my home heating. A "weekend warrior" with my Stihls! I always let each saw warm up for at least two minutes before cutting; and similar cool-down time when done. Unless my plans are to cut again the next day, I also drain fuel and - at idle speed -- let saw run out of fuel. (For an extended storage period I also drain (I use Amsoil) bar/chain oil... I have 14 Stihl's and 13 of them (the pole saw is exception) are drippers.)

What I do...

geo

Buy canned fuel and skip all the BS. What I do. No muss, no fuss and no worry about mixing or ratio's or anything else. I'm an occasional user as well.

 

[Geo019t]

Buy canned fuel and skip all the BS. What I do. No muss, no fuss and no worry about mixing or ratio's or anything else. I'm an occasional user as well.

OK -- here's where I (continue) bashing my head against the wall! YES -- you are most correct vis canned fuel -- I have been a lonnng-time user of Stihl Moto-Mix in my (all Stihl brand) chainsaws, pole saw, and blower. I add a wee bit (2.53 ml) of Stihl Ultra to each quart, too. A YouTuber -- Chickanic -- has posted several diatribes AGAINST using many pre-mixed canned fuels -- you can Google her channel and see the brands she particularly nixes. Being OCD re oil-mix I recently couldn't get an 039 going, and dealer advised scored piston. I always warm saws up before use, let them cool down after, etc. How did this happen? (I mailed the saw to Corey C. in Oklahoma for rebuild...) But, many hours of research -- which even got me to this forum -- suggests a Red Armor mix to 40:1? The relatively short amount of money -- cost -- is nil, counting pennies when I'm running a $600.00 saw -- I'm both too old (I'm 75) and too poor to buy a new replacement... Mentioned as a possible failure cause by Stihl (their website) includes "stale fuel". Which might (???) have been a contributor to my 039 failure. Since -- shoud've done it in past -- I now label all my premix with date -- and any left after a couple of months gets poured into my pickup truck's fuel tank. I'm still seeking the "answer" to the perfect mix which will make my saws last forever....

 

[Sidecarflip]

No saw lasts forever unless you don't use it. Far as the gal on YT, I watch her as well but strictly for entertainment and she has nice legs. Face, not so much.

I quit playing 'Chemist' with fuel mixes long ago once I switched to either Echo Red Armor 50-1 canned or Tru-Fuel 50-1 canned. No muss, no fuss, don't worry about shelf life now and certainly don't worry about mix ratio's. Already mixed.

Having said that I do break in a NEW saw on 40-1 canned fuel for the first couple tanks and then go to the 50-1.

Your mileage may vary but I KNOW what mine is.

 

[lone wolf]

OK -- here's where I (continue) bashing my head against the wall! YES -- you are most correct vis canned fuel -- I have been a lonnng-time user of Stihl Moto-Mix in my (all Stihl brand) chainsaws, pole saw, and blower. I add a wee bit (2.53 ml) of Stihl Ultra to each quart, too. A YouTuber -- Chickanic -- has posted several diatribes AGAINST using many pre-mixed canned fuels -- you can Google her channel and see the brands she particularly nixes. Being OCD re oil-mix I recently couldn't get an 039 going, and dealer advised scored piston. I always warm saws up before use, let them cool down after, etc. How did this happen? (I mailed the saw to Corey C. in Oklahoma for rebuild...) But, many hours of research -- which even got me to this forum -- suggests a Red Armor mix to 40:1? The relatively short amount of money -- cost -- is nil, counting pennies when I'm running a $600.00 saw -- I'm both too old (I'm 75) and too poor to buy a new replacement... Mentioned as a possible failure cause by Stihl (their website) includes "stale fuel". Which might (???) have been a contributor to my 039 failure. Since -- shoud've done it in past -- I now label all my premix with date -- and any left after a couple of months gets poured into my pickup truck's fuel tank. I'm still seeking the "answer" to the perfect mix which will make my saws last forever....

Labels would be helpful!

 

[Sidecarflip]

I might add that the TF as well as the RA canned fuel leaves no deposits on the spark arrestor screen or in the exhaust port and I look regularly to ascertain what is transpiring inside the saw. One thing I always do is I leave the USDA spark arrestor screen intact even though I always mod the mufflers. Heck, if I could fit them with expansion chambers, I would.

 

[Geo019t]

No saw lasts forever unless you don't use it. Far as the gal on YT, I watch her as well but strictly for entertainment and she has nice legs. Face, not so much.

I quit playing 'Chemist' with fuel mixes long ago once I switched to either Echo Red Armor 50-1 canned or Tru-Fuel 50-1 canned. No muss, no fuss, don't worry about shelf life now and certainly don't worry about mix ratio's. Already mixed.

Having said that I do break in a NEW saw on 40-1 canned fuel for the first couple tanks and then go to the 50-1.

Your mileage may vary but I KNOW what mine is.

I wasn't aware one might purchase "Echo Red Armor 50-1 canned"and will be looking for a store/source. Your plan seems like the best one; however, I do get a kick out of, as you write, "playing chemist" . I do add 1 ounce per gallon of Sea Foam, and 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons StaBil to the high-octane ethanol-free gasoline I purchase before use in mowers and similar -- or to make the pre-mix for chainsaws.

 

[Sidecarflip]

Any Echo dealer will have it and so does Home Depot. For me, it makes perfect sense because I don't use my saws every day or every week for that matter. Far as Seafoam goes, I never play chemist with that stuff either. Only thing I use that for is cleaning the intake tract in my GDI 4 stroke engines. I don't play the 'elixir' game here. The only 'additives' I use are Nano Borate and Bio-Kleen in my diesel farm tractors.

You could go broke buying snake oil additives. To me, it's mostly snake oil unless chemically proven to work and that ain't via some YT video either.

 

[Sidecarflip]

I do use Stabil in my lawn equipment gas but only the Blue Marine non stinky Stabil. The red stuff stinks and is worthless far as I'm concerned. That stuff stinks worse than an unwashed migrant.

 

[lone wolf]

I wasn't aware one might purchase "Echo Red Armor 50-1 canned"and will be looking for a store/source. Your plan seems like the best one; however, I do get a kick out of, as you write, "playing chemist" . I do add 1 ounce per gallon of Sea Foam, and 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons StaBil to the high-octane ethanol-free gasoline I purchase before use in mowers and similar -- or to make the pre-mix for chainsaws.

Sea Foam is a waste of money there.

 

[OM617YOTA]

OK -- here's where I (continue) bashing my head against the wall! YES -- you are most correct vis canned fuel -- I have been a lonnng-time user of Stihl Moto-Mix in my (all Stihl brand) chainsaws, pole saw, and blower. I add a wee bit (2.53 ml) of Stihl Ultra to each quart, too. A YouTuber -- Chickanic -- has posted several diatribes AGAINST using many pre-mixed canned fuels -- you can Google her channel and see the brands she particularly nixes. Being OCD re oil-mix I recently couldn't get an 039 going, and dealer advised scored piston. I always warm saws up before use, let them cool down after, etc. How did this happen? (I mailed the saw to Corey C. in Oklahoma for rebuild...) But, many hours of research -- which even got me to this forum -- suggests a Red Armor mix to 40:1? The relatively short amount of money -- cost -- is nil, counting pennies when I'm running a $600.00 saw -- I'm both too old (I'm 75) and too poor to buy a new replacement... Mentioned as a possible failure cause by Stihl (their website) includes "stale fuel". Which might (???) have been a contributor to my 039 failure. Since -- shoud've done it in past -- I now label all my premix with date -- and any left after a couple of months gets poured into my pickup truck's fuel tank. I'm still seeking the "answer" to the perfect mix which will make my saws last forever....

Chickanic is a joke. She didn't retune between fuels, the "testing" she did was absolutely worthless. When I left a comment stating that, she deleted the comment, multiple times. I'm suspecting she wants folks to use pump fuel and generate more business for her.

Almost all saw owners should be using premix fuel. The folks on this site don't count, y'all make up less than 1% of saw owners. Most saw owners have a Wild Thing that they pull out of the case twice a year to trim a limb that came down in a storm. On a heavy use year, they might go through an entire tank of fuel cutting up some firewood for a camp fire. They burn less than a quart of fuel a year, and if they're going to have a gas saw at all, then premix is PERFECT for them.

 

[lone wolf]

I do use Stabil in my lawn equipment gas but only the Blue Marine non stinky Stabil. The red stuff stinks and is worthless far as I'm concerned. That stuff stinks worse than an unwashed migrant.

You are wrong on this one, man!!!!!!!!



They ain't migrants they are invaders!

 

[bwalker]

Thanks for comments! Where I reside there are only two "name brand" stations -- EXXON, and Sunoco, plus two quickie-marts with no branded gasoline. Maybe it was a one-shot deal, but I bought EXXON and Sunoco Ethanol-Free -- Sunoco (higher octane) being my hopeful choice -- but when I filled the plastic Ethanol-test-kit jar (REV X E85 Super Tester Reusable Ethanol Testing Kit -- purchased from Amazon) -- the EXXON fuel showed ZERO Ethanol, whereas the Sunoco showed between four and five per-cent! (Both have pumps with dedicated hoses, and I had filled 5-gallon jugs first, to eliminate any possible residuals in hoses.) Again, maybe on the day I did the check there was an "oops!" from truck which filled underground storage tanks, or??? But, this is what made me switch to EXXON -- both a further drive for me to get it and generally a few cents more costly per gallon.

In reality most of the stations in your area get their fuel from the same terminal. The fuel could literally be made by anyone.
For instance the Exxon branded stations where I live get their fuel from the refinery I work at, which isn't an Exxon refinery.

 

[muddy42]

In my elderly chainsaws I use pre mixed alkylate fuels like Aspen or motomix. Yes its twice the price, but the engines start noticeably easier, the fuel keeps better and its better for the internal rubber and plastic. You only need to avoid expensive repair or replacement o justify the cost.

In the summer I use my brushcutter so much, I mix my own fuel. I will only buy fresh fuel (kept for a month max) bought from a frequently used pump, with as little ethanol as possible. I don't believe in any additives other than high quality jaso FD rated two stroke oil mixed at 40:1. At the end of the grass season I run the engine dry then run it on a bit of alkylate. I will turn the engine over briefly during the winter sometime.

 

[lone wolf]

In my elderly chainsaws I use pre mixed alkylate fuels like Aspen or motomix. Yes its twice the price, but the engines start noticeably easier, the fuel keeps better and its better for the internal rubber and plastic. You only need to avoid expensive repair or replacement o justify the cost.

In the summer I use my brushcutter so much, I mix my own fuel. I will only buy fresh fuel (kept for a month max) bought from a frequently used pump, with as little ethanol as possible. I don't believe in any additives other than high quality jaso FD rated two stroke oil mixed at 40:1. At the end of the grass season I run the engine dry then run it on a bit of alkylate. I will turn the engine over briefly during the winter sometime.

That works for me !