Old bollard question

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Actually the thing was perfect, we used a different rope guide other than the steel one on the unit, it was just a strap and a beener. Easily cranked what was over the house right out, came in handy making the tops fly out real. The most we had to crank was maybe 7 nubs on the ratchet to get the pulls we needed. The power was limited to whatever one guy could muster, I just used one top pulley on the tip rope, tossed a butt line in whereever and with a notch Jesse could crank no problem. We swung most thing towards the truck.
To date the guys I am now working with have only seen me take thing that a porta- wrap can handle ( which is impressive), well, I sure had me some Ohhs and Ahh today. Might have been a little tough on the 16 stand lowering line. I did notice mention of the knots being hard to get out today.

Dan, you may know this, but tie a bowline and a krab on the end of your rigging line and use that instead of tieing and untieing knots. It is faster and helps get the rope back to you faster. Helps the ground guys too, as long as they can run a krab, for what it's worth of course.

I am trying to get a video on You-tube of a White Oak I recently took over a house using this method. Then you can see me in action:).
 
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Hey TreemanDan What's on the front of the dingo? and which model and what are the lifting capacities? I like the dingo's any comments you got would be appreciated! Thanks
 
Dan, you may know this, but tie a bowline and a krab on the end of your rigging line and use that instead of tieing and untieing knots. It is faster and helps get the rope back to you faster. Helps the ground guys too, as long as they can run a krab, for what it's worth of course.

Its something i ditched a long time ago buddy. Yes, its easier but I could go into why its not a good idea.
 
I'd like to hear your take cause I like it so far.

I have seen them bend or break, once exploded on impact with the trunk.
The load is always in the same place ( and its a heavy load !)
I suspect that what ever I send down have a good chance of hitting pretty hard, getting dug in the dirt, bounced of the trunk, etc. and who is to say what the beener just had done to it.

Rope also seems to hold on the wood better. a beener don't grab.
 
Then, of course ( with out sounding to droll), loading a beener any other way than what is recommened is considered not recommened.
In the end the beener should not be on the end.
 
Now a big ass steel clevis ( made here, I am leary of that Asian crap) with some numbers on it is a different thing. I like the one hitch rf did, but that was no beener.
Post a pic of your set up Nails would you? And remember this, a beener is a terrible thing to beat the tar out of.
 
We have a dead Red Oak to take over a garage tomorrow. GRCS will be in action with me running it on the ground and my bro flying up top. I will see if he will strap a krab on so I can get a pic, otherwise I don't have one in the archives. One of our bull ropes is 200'x 5/8" with 2 spliced eyes and a couple large steel screw krabs, not sure on the rating. I'll see if I can get him to use it. You know how it is, the climber gets to set up his way and he has many options.

I use a steel krab clipped into a bowline on 1/2" line when not using the bull rope.

I tie knots if I'm bombing wood out and try not to ever put a krab in an impact situation.

As far as the krab slipping, I have never seen this in all my applications. Ignorance is bliss? lol.
 
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We have a dead Red Oak to take over a garage tomorrow. GRCS will be in action with me running it on the ground and my bro flying up top. I will see if he will strap a krab on so I can get a pic, otherwise I don't have one in the archives. One of our bull ropes is 200'x 5/8" with 2 spliced eyes and a couple large steel screw krabs, not sure on the rating. I'll see if I can get him to use it. You know how it is, the climber gets to set up his way and he has many options.

I use a steel krab clipped into a bowline on 1/2" line when not using the bull rope.

I tie knots if I'm bombing wood out and try not to ever put a krab in an impact situation.

As far as the krab slipping, I have never seen this in all my applications. Ignorance is bliss? lol.

Mostly the steel will bend . I don't use screw gate beeners unless its a " Put it on once and tighten it with pliers" type deal. My steel beeners are auto-lock rest assuredly.
 
Now a big ass steel clevis ( made here, I am leary of that Asian crap) with some numbers on it is a different thing. I like the one hitch rf did, but that was no beener.
Post a pic of your set up Nails would you? And remember this, a beener is a terrible thing to beat the tar out of.
+1 the shackles work nice with crane work but never use a krab fer anything other than what it was made for.
 
I like a rope snap on the end for light rigging. The perfect weight for tossing around in the tree.

Now I know what I can use my snaps for. I bet I have 3 or 4 steel ones that I don't use anymore. They do throw really nice, and I can grab them with the hook on the end of my handsaw to reel them back in.
 
Now I know what I can use my snaps for. I bet I have 3 or 4 steel ones that I don't use anymore. They do throw really nice, and I can grab them with the hook on the end of my handsaw to reel them back in.

YES! Now you have got it! Rope snaps for LIGHT rigging.

years ago I had 2 main goals in mind: 1. to fill a 35 gal oil barrel with old spark plugs 2. to fill a 35 gal barrell with bent rope snaps.

I am dedicated to my goals... its done... both.

Now my goal is to stop filling up 35 gal barells with junk. Tie the knot, toss the beener.

I went to a Sherrill seminar years ago, Homey was rigging with a big old ladder hook on the end on the rope. Its a weak link and the weak link has got to go. Even if you are rigging light branches its a link that don't need to be there. Take away all you don't need, all that is un-nessasaery
 
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