Opinions, which big Husky to get! (390xp or 395xp)

[brncreeper]

I don't need a 395 to know that if the clutch is slipping that either something is wrong with the clutch, or the saw is being used incorrectly. I have run my 044 plenty with a 28" bar burried in red or white Oak on 90 plus degree days. I don't let the clutch slip, and there is no sign of heat on my shoes or drum. Putting a 36" bar on a saw with an outboard clutch is a pain in the rear. I know, I get to do it with my SP125. Hanging the long bar on my 660 is about ten times easier.

I realize all that. All I’m saying is that there is no 100 percent efficient clutch, even under ideal conditions they will all give off some heat. From a reliability standpoint it makes more sense to locate the clutch on the outside that’s all.

 

[hoss]

Has anyone mentioned the 2100CD?

 

[Four Paws]

Farm King, before you buy a Husky, read This thread!

 

[brncreeper]

Has anyone mentioned the 2100CD?

Hey Hoss, did you find a 166?

 

[William Balaska]

Tell us about the 2100cd Hoss, I just bought one i'm awaiting it's arrival. It's
actually my first and only Husqvarna. I have a bunch of big old-schools, but
i'd like to hear about the Husky what is your experience? I hear parts are hard to come by, but nos parts at a price are out there I assume like anything else.

 

[hoss]

Hey Hoss, did you find a 166?

No, but I think a little later Thall is going to post some pics of a couple of oold monsters that I DID find.

 

[hoss]

Tell us about the 2100cd Hoss, I just bought one i'm awaiting it's arrival. It's
actually my first and only Husqvarna. I have a bunch of big old-schools, but
i'd like to hear about the Husky what is your experience? I hear parts are hard to come by, but nos parts at a price are out there I assume like anything else.

The 2100CD is a 100cc saw rated (conservatively) at 7hp. Mine runs about 12,000 rpm comfortably. They will pull long bars (48" plus) easy. A healthy one will have finger stretching compression. Cuts about the same as an 066until the wood gets real big then it really starts to shine. Also it is one of the most popular saws to mod/race. Have fun with yours.
P.S. If yours has thin rings, hang on to it as they are the one to have.

 

[William Balaska]

I'll post pictures when it arrives, thanks for telling us about it.

 

[Tzed250]

I realize all that. All I’m saying is that there is no 100 percent efficient clutch, even under ideal conditions they will all give off some heat. From a reliability standpoint it makes more sense to locate the clutch on the outside that’s all.

The outboard clutch is dead...Where is the proof that an outboard clutch is more reliable?

 

[2000ssm6]

Has anyone mentioned the 660?:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[BIGBORE577]

The 2100CD is a 100cc saw rated (conservatively) at 7hp. Mine runs about 12,000 rpm comfortably. They will pull long bars (48" plus) easy. A healthy one will have finger stretching compression. Cuts about the same as an 066until the wood gets real big then it really starts to shine. Also it is one of the most popular saws to mod/race. Have fun with yours.
P.S. If yours has thin rings, hang on to it as they are the one to have.

Hoss,
Please compare the 395XP to the 2100CD for me. I know nothing really about either but would be interested in you opinions. You are un-biased and informative and I would value your response.

 

[brncreeper]

The outboard clutch is dead...Where is the proof that an outboard clutch is more reliable?

*sigh* lolol not the clutch the bearing. The heat from the internal clutch shortens the life of the bearing.

 

[hoss]

Hoss,
Please compare the 395XP to the 2100CD for me. I know nothing really about either but would be interested in you opinions. You are un-biased and informative and I would value your response.

Well I have never run the 395, but I have run the 394 (I think that is the model before the 395, correct me if I am wrong) . The 2100 is definateley the stronger saw, in build and power, There was not as much emphasis on weight savings in the 2100 as in the 395 so there is more structual reinforcement. The bottom end is very strong (one reason it is so popular for racing) and it is a very straightforward design and very easy to service. Also it does have a manual backup oiler. The 395 probably revs a bit quicker, (unless the 2100 is a thin ring) but in actual cutting there won't be much difference in smaller wood but as the bars and wood get bigger you will see why the 2100 has the reputation that it does. I am not a husky guy, but came across a great deal on my 2100 and couldn't resist. Anyway since then I have been very impressed.

 

[pbtree]

390XP is a nice saw great power to weight ratio...

What he said - I love my 390...

 

[Tzed250]

*sigh* lolol not the clutch the bearing. The heat from the internal clutch shortens the life of the bearing.

LOL, ok...fine...where is the proof that the bearings in a saw with an outboard clutch last longer?

 

[B_Turner]

I love my 395, but due to the weight I usually grab a smaller saw when it will do.

The OP mentioned noodling. I prefer noodling with a 7900 to the 395. Less power yes, but a flatter powerband and it clears the long shavings better.

My 7900s have cut mountains of noodles with a 28 inch bar.

In terms of the outboard clutch and swaping chains, it's no big deal and you get used to it. Different technique is all.

I admit the Stihl chain adjuster is the best, and for example swapping chains on my 880 (long bars) is a small bit easier than on my 3120.

 

[Boleclimber]

I own a 2100CD and a 2007 395xp. In stock form the the 395 revs higher than the 2100 however had less torque in the cut. In large hardwood 20"+ the 2100 will walk by a stock 395. However a 2100 CD is heavy, very loud and vibrates alot. Making it useful for only the largest of trees.

Parts for the 2100 can be found. The 2100 coil is likely to be the part to fail, as it has poor cooling ventilation under the flywheel. Coils are available from baileys and other suppliers. Gas lines are obsolete but an old style 272 gas line works. Bearings, rings and other parts are available on ebay.


After having my 395 woods ported it now holds up to the 2100.

For milling reasons I can see wanting a 2100. For bucking and firewood I would go with the 395, for the simple reason of less weight and vibrations.

If you have the money buy a ported 395. Porting voids the warranty but for the ease of operation and increased production warranty loss isn't a big deal. My experience with pro husky saws has been excellent with no warranty problems; I believe porting is worth the gamble.

Walkers saw shop may be able to hook you up or possibly madsens.

I have never operated a 390 therefore I have no input on that model. Thought on paper it appears to be a quality saw and likely to replace the 385 in the husky lineup. Why market a prosaw that is less powerful with the same weight!?

 

[brncreeper]

LOL, ok...fine...where is the proof that the bearings in a saw with an outboard clutch last longer?

The 385 is a good example with its history of pto side bearing failures. Maybe that’s why Husky put a larger clutch on the 390.
Assuming the correct oil and mix ratio is used, what else besides excessive heat what would shorten the life of bearings?

 

[Tzed250]

The 385 is a good example with its history of pto side bearing failures. Maybe that’s why Husky put a larger clutch on the 390.
Assuming the correct oil and mix ratio is used, what else besides excessive heat what would shorten the life of bearings?

Improper engineering. All of Stihls production saws have an inboard clutch and none of them are known for bearing failures.

 

[brncreeper]

Improper engineering. All of Stihls production saws have an inboard clutch and none of them are known for bearing failures.

The 385 was re-engineered...period. The fact that the pto side (clutch side) bearing failures were caused by the internal clutch’s excessive heat remains.