Big Block
WFO or I don't go
what he said
Overbought! Shindaiwa 600 SX for 4 cords/yr
- Thread starter UnderDawgAl
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what he said
Big Block
WFO or I don't go
all the info you will need
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/15-echo-cs620pw-information.278407/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/15-echo-cs620pw-information.278407/
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
Did you get it dirty yet?Hello, all. Longtime lurker who just joined recently. New firewood hoarder here because we recently moved into a house with a Jotul F500 woodstove. Bought this chainsaw earlier in the week. It's really an Echo CS-620P in a Shindaiwa disguise. I'm hoping to cut with it within the next couple days. I've been heating with hardwood pallets and scavenged wood.
Needing only 2-4 cords per year, I could have saved money buying the Echo 590 for $400, but I decided that I would probably later wish I'd paid more upfront for the additional torque and the aluminum handle. There's no financial argument for getting this one over the 590, because you pay just over 50% more to gain 25% add'l power. However, in the long run, if I start cutting more, I figured that any mods would gain me even more power, and I wanted the better bar and handle.
Poor pics, b/c it's just too cold and windy to open the garage door right now. Normally, of course, the garage is immaculately organized.
I bought the 20" bar. Local dealer had a 27" bar also, but I won't be needing that anytime soon.
UnderDawgAl
ArboristSite Lurker
Not yet. It'll have to wait till Saturday. Kids are sick, so I needed to be home. Weather will be right for it. I'll spend a few hours bucking trees that were felled and left behind--mostly poplar. Free poplar is better than paid-for oak.
I did, however, remove the limiter caps today. I'll tune it on Friday, in anticipation of cutting on Saturday. Check that...I'll attempt to tune it on Friday. Youtube and this forum will be my friends.
Below pics are for posterity. I'm not a chainsaw expert by any means, and I've read lots of threads on these. However, a concise list of pics is hard to come by.
Here's a shot of the air filter.
Next up, the two screws that need to be removed to access the carburetor. The screws require a T27 Torx head driver or bit for removal.
Below pic shows the tabs on the limiter caps that everyone keeps talking about. Turn each cap counterclockwise until the tabs align with the slots. Each limiter cap has two tabs--an upper tab on one side (visible in the pics) and a lower tab on the opposite side (aligned with the opposing slot).
Use a screw or small pair of needle-nosed pliers to pull out the caps. For the first one, I filed down the point on a drywall screw, hand-turned it into the plastic, double-checked to ensure the tabs were aligned with the slots, and then pulled the cap out. For the second one, I couldn't get a good bite on the plastic, so I simply used a pair of the aforementioned pliers to pull the cap out. Man, my fingers are dried out. Looks like old man hands.
Then, I grabbed each cap with the pliers to hold onto it, and I filed down the tabs flush. Once they were flush, I reinserted the caps, and I put everything back together.
Like I said up top, I still need to tune it. On Friday, if not earlier, I'll take a look at the muffler, with particular attention to the deflector screen, to see what I want to do to that. I'll follow the advice of an earlier poster and use 40:1 mix.
Thanks, guys, for all your help on here. Browsing and searching threads, such as the one above, has given me a wealth of knowledge already. Were it not for this site, I would have haplessly bought an MS-271 or MS-291 and been none the wiser.
I did, however, remove the limiter caps today. I'll tune it on Friday, in anticipation of cutting on Saturday. Check that...I'll attempt to tune it on Friday. Youtube and this forum will be my friends.
Below pics are for posterity. I'm not a chainsaw expert by any means, and I've read lots of threads on these. However, a concise list of pics is hard to come by.
Here's a shot of the air filter.
Next up, the two screws that need to be removed to access the carburetor. The screws require a T27 Torx head driver or bit for removal.
Below pic shows the tabs on the limiter caps that everyone keeps talking about. Turn each cap counterclockwise until the tabs align with the slots. Each limiter cap has two tabs--an upper tab on one side (visible in the pics) and a lower tab on the opposite side (aligned with the opposing slot).
Use a screw or small pair of needle-nosed pliers to pull out the caps. For the first one, I filed down the point on a drywall screw, hand-turned it into the plastic, double-checked to ensure the tabs were aligned with the slots, and then pulled the cap out. For the second one, I couldn't get a good bite on the plastic, so I simply used a pair of the aforementioned pliers to pull the cap out. Man, my fingers are dried out. Looks like old man hands.
Then, I grabbed each cap with the pliers to hold onto it, and I filed down the tabs flush. Once they were flush, I reinserted the caps, and I put everything back together.
Like I said up top, I still need to tune it. On Friday, if not earlier, I'll take a look at the muffler, with particular attention to the deflector screen, to see what I want to do to that. I'll follow the advice of an earlier poster and use 40:1 mix.
Thanks, guys, for all your help on here. Browsing and searching threads, such as the one above, has given me a wealth of knowledge already. Were it not for this site, I would have haplessly bought an MS-271 or MS-291 and been none the wiser.
CoreyB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well thankfully that didn't happen.
UnderDawgAl
ArboristSite Lurker
Well said. In all honesty, when I was originally looking at the Stihl catalog, I kept gravitating away from the "farm/ranch" saws because that category smelled like pure marketing to me. What confirmed it was finding out that the old Farm Boss was the 290 but the new Farm Boss is the 271. Smaller engine, less power--but same marketing slogan. Hmmm.
Four Paws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Who confirmed the mechanical components cross with a 620P? Your dealer? I haven't seen any definitive information published by the OEM or other that the Shindaiwa 600SX is a CS-620P in red trim. The MSRP correlation between the two is an obvious reason to assume they are the same. A comparison of the IPL may yield some definitive proof - specifically coil, piston and cylinder part numbers.
Either way, it is a good looking saw. I would certainly own one. Would be nice if the Shindaiwa version was offered with an optional wrap handle.
Did you cut with it on Monday? How did you like it?
UnderDawgAl
ArboristSite Lurker
Here is the link to the parts manual for the Shindaiwa 600 SX, found at the Shindaiwa-USA website. See page 3 for the cylinder (A130002160) and piston (P021043990) part numbers.
Here is the link to the parts manual for the Echo CS-620P, found at the Echo-USA website. See page 3 for the cylinder (same #--A130002160) and piston (same #--P021043990) part numbers.
Muffler part numbers are the same for both (A300001810). Meanwhile the Echo CS-600P (and presumably the 590, as well) has a different muffler part number.
Interestingly, the coils have different part numbers (Shindaiwa--A411001430; Echo--P021044000), although the drawings are the same. See the links above to compare.
It's definitely a good-looking saw. You're right on the wrap handle, but one could always order the wrap handle from Echo. I didn't get to cut on Monday. Unfortunately, sickness keeps rotating through the family. If everyone is mostly recovered by Saturday morning, I plan on cutting then, after I try to tune it on Friday.
Jimbo209
ArboristSite Guru
Not always i have seen some 0x4 Stihls were farm boss like the 024 and I thinks the 034.
That and when stilh back in the day made the same saw case with different bore and stroke there was 40x45 reg 42x45 farm boss, 44x45 magnum.(numbers are made up but theoretically accurate)
My Fs 81&86
My 026 has 024
My MS660 has a cousin MS 650.
On topic though we got given at work a echo 6700?? Which runs great
UnderDawgAl
ArboristSite Lurker
Will do. I have been following your thread for months now--since before joining AS as a member. In fact, I used that thread to justify my purchase to myself, since there is no economic argument for me having bought this over a 590 for my needs. I appreciate your pics on the muffler mod, particularly.Glad you like the saw a 600/620 with a muffler mod, base gasket delete, retune and sharp chain will make for a great all around saw... Come join us over in the 620 Echo thread
Enjoy.
I'm not a chainsaw pro, so I still have a learning curve on the proper tuning. Do you run 40:1 in your 620?
Glad the thread could help. Yes, I run red armor 40:1 in everything, superslick and burns cleanly. For 50% more price you do get better port #s, but also bigger carb and unlimited coil, metal handlebar, dual dawgs ect. So while you say you overbought (based on work needing to be done) I say you made a good decision! If you ever bull that base gasket you will see a nice bump in compression
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
Wonder if the coils have a different rev limiter or different curve for advance
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
After he has it broke inn and many tanks through it he might just think to himself like hmmmm what would a higher cutting speed be like with this saw? Will I like this saw if it cuts faster?Glad the thread could help. Yes, I run red armor 40:1 in everything, superslick and burns cleanly. For 50% more price you do get better port #s, but also bigger carb and unlimited coil, metal handlebar, dual dawgs ect. So while you say you overbought (based on work needing to be done) I say you made a good decision! If you ever bull that base gasket you will see a nice bump in compression
Four Paws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Very possible on the ignition curve. The 620 echo is unlimited.
I would buy one if they offered it as a 600sxw
A saw is never to big for a job as long as Your back can take it!
I use my 64cc & 79cc simultaneously for my 7 cubic meters of firewood logs a Year.
I could like me some more power!
My 64cc is my main go to saw, even for the tiniest of jobs.
I'll see whether that'll change in a few years.
Nice saw!
I use my 64cc & 79cc simultaneously for my 7 cubic meters of firewood logs a Year.
I could like me some more power!
My 64cc is my main go to saw, even for the tiniest of jobs.
I'll see whether that'll change in a few years.
Nice saw!
UnderDawgAl
ArboristSite Lurker
It runs like a top. It took me awhile to get it adjusted correctly, since I have never done this before. At first I flooded the engine. Once I got it adjusted, this thing screams. Pictures to come later.
Just be careful with the screaming stuff. You need a good burble on top with no load. Set it rich since its new.
On mine the Echos don't burble as much as the huskys but they are still rich. I hear what you are saying though...
UnderDawgAl
ArboristSite Lurker
I should have clarified. I used "screaming" to mean racing through the wood.
Maybe it's just my imagination, but I could tell a distinct difference how it cut as brought home from the dealer compared to how it cut once I trimmed the limiter tabs and then tuned it.
Maybe it's just my imagination, but I could tell a distinct difference how it cut as brought home from the dealer compared to how it cut once I trimmed the limiter tabs and then tuned it.
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