OWB Performance Loss

[Biglurr54]

I've don't more drilling down. I put a thermometer on the supply pipe at the boiler. It is 162 and inside at the exchanger it is 160. The boiler temp was at 187. I moved the thermometer sending unit up the boiler near the built in thermo wells for the boiler Stat and got 187. It seems that the lines aren't the culprit. The issue is the boiler water is not leaving the boiler at the correct temp. I changed the circulator cartridge to a new one and snaked the ports which appeared clear. I opened the valve with the circ off and water gushed out. Any ideas on why the water temp on the supply line is so low.

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[lefturnfreek]

That's really weird....

So the temp drop is kinda low from the lines so that's good news.

Your 100% sure your taking and returning water off the right ports....? Cause after that, I'm baffled.....

 

[NSMaple1]

Sounds like he's got it hooked up right, per the manual. I think with proper flow through the boiler, the water leaving it would heat up as the water on top works its way down.

Did the new cartridge change anything? I suppose there's a chance the pump motor itself might be on it's way out to pasture - maybe swap in a whole new pump? Then if that doesn't change anything, at least you've got a spare.

I might be tempted to call the boiler manufacturer & run it by them, and quiz them on the internal boiler temps too. They might have a different angle we haven't thought of yet. You could also measure the amp draw of the circ with a clamp on amp meter & see if the amps its drawing are in spec - although that might not be conclusive if there's a motor issue.

 

[NSMaple1]

I just went back through the thread, wondering if you ever did get the HX flushed out - if it's dirty on the OWB side that will cut flow too as earlier suggested. But then I saw again where you bypassed the HX and it didn't change anything. So seems that isn't it. I was ready to bet money on big loss in the lines, but that was with the impression the boiler temp of 180 or whatever you were running it at meant that's how hot the water was leaving the boiler. So, my bet has now shifted to needing a whole new pump - which was also mentioned early on too by others. Good thing I don't bet with real money - lol.

 

[Biglurr54]

I did bet with real money and have a 190 in a cartridge. Now to throw 240 at a new pump seems excessive. I think I will call woodmaster first. Anyone have a Spare 0011 that needs a cartridge they would be willing to sell.

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[tawilson]

Hard to believe there is 130' of melted snow and you are only losing 2 degrees.

 

[NSMaple1]

Hard to believe there is 130' of melted snow and you are only losing 2 degrees.

That too.

A conundrum indeed.

 

[lefturnfreek]

I would do this anyway, sure cut down on wood.

 

[chumscustoms]

My central boiler wood hog, has a taco 009 pump and the impeller on the cartridge lost its blades due to wear.
I replaced it and it was night and day.
Could also be internally plugged exchanger with rust is a issue in the water that is getting g circulated through the furnace.

Check incoming Temps to the exchanger and outgoing temps.
If the drop is super excessive then the amount of water going through the cooler is low it will read as if the cooler is cool g alot.
If the external exchanger is plughe'd or has blockage it won't cool the water or you won't see a drop across the exchanger.

I would check the pump and go to a grenfoss

 

[lefturnfreek]

Yes those are tough pumps.

I have a UPS 15-58 and a UPS 26-99 and run both of them on low for the most part until - 10ish then I'll bump the house one, the 26-99, up to med.

 

[hupte]

I did bet with real money and have a 190 in a cartridge. Now to throw 240 at a new pump seems excessive. I think I will call woodmaster first. Anyone have a Spare 0011 that needs a cartridge they would be willing to sell.

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you can find good quality grundfos pumps on ebay for under 100. they are better quality than taco IMHO.