Partner Chainsaw Thread

[timberdollars]

p55

Hello have two cylinders one on the right is from the p-55 one on the left is from a S-55 I didn't know they were different from each other. both are 55 cc, any one have any Idea why they they are different. I know the p-55 is a pro and S-55 a semi pro.

Hello, the p55 is the pro version with T-Port exguast, it is a built in decompression system to ease starting do to better timing on the p55, the s55 is a open port type lower power, both are 100% interchangable. You can also use the S65 F65 cylinders and pistons also.
The closed port P55 is the way to go, there were also three versions of the S55 versions going back to the late 60's with the R16, r17 they had smaller cooling fins BUT IMO better ports and timing, they also had divided intake and exguast ports, some were open ports and some closed.

I've been hunting for a P55 cylinder to go with my collection but keep coming up with various other cylinders instead.

Duane

 

[mama]

P-55

Thanks for the info, I would like to pick up another P-55 as I like the pro version of the 55 cc saw.

 

[timberdollars]

P55

Thanks for the info, I would like to pick up another P-55 as I like the pro version of the 55 cc saw.

Yah most people do, for me I really don't care the only real difference is the adjustable oiler but all my s55,s65,f55,f65 all work TOO good in the oiling department. I do want a P55 cylinder for the T-port so my girlfreind can start it. She can start my P70 wich has the t-port but NOT A CHANCE starting any other Partner I have.
Note: IMO the older R series saws cylinders are better,(smaller fins) and with a little work flow great if not too much, same for mufflers, you can swap any around. (except for P70 K650/700 cylinders, unless you have a 54.90MM opening on the crankcase)

Good luck with your Partners too!!!! kinda addicting

 

[mama]

P-55

Ya I like the old partners, made to last. I came pretty close to just fixing up the partners and use these instead and sell my Sthil saws. I have a S-50 that runs good, one S-55my original saw from 1980 thats a runner one S-55 used for parts the P-55 whaiting on rings.two 500's for parts, one 5000plus a runner one 5000 as a parts saw.I've found bearings and seals and seen aftermarket pistons on ebay.I put one of the closed ports from the 5000 on my husky 55 it runs good.

 

[timberdollars]

Old Partners Made to Last

Ya I like the old partners, made to last. I came pretty close to just fixing up the partners and use these instead and sell my Sthil saws. I have a S-50 that runs good, one S-55my original saw from 1980 thats a runner one S-55 used for parts the P-55 whaiting on rings.two 500's for parts, one 5000plus a runner one 5000 as a parts saw.I've found bearings and seals and seen aftermarket pistons on ebay.I put one of the closed ports from the 5000 on my husky 55 it runs good.

Sounds like my thinkin!!! I have a whole pile too, problem is they were all runners but had to sacrifice one for parts. I wound up with all F65 and only a couple 55 but then bought more used 65cc cylinders so there most all 65 now. I then bought into the 490/500/5000+/325 issue now can't STOP!!!!! I did sell all but Three of my Stihl, I had a bunch of good stuff too!!! just found I perfer Partners, NO MORE $$$$$ bearings and fuel lines that need changed yearly!!!! You can buy two or three Partner for one Stihl sold.

 

[timberdollars]

F65 Modded KICKS *^#

So finally got time to put my newest creation to real work, fell about 8 trees and cut them up, used my (meaning I put this one together for me to use, not shelf queen) F65 Partner Farmer, early model with small cooling fins closed port cylinder, no gasket. I woods ported it and am using a weird completely open inside muffler, with outlet holes facing left on the front. It has a WS18 carb.
THIS THINK is great, it's loud, its fast, its FUN!!!!! this thing is NO 4.1hp saw as they stated they were, it runs high rpms and my 23" old Oregon pro bar running semi chisel pro chain with rakers at .040 (heavy chrome cutters) its all it can do to keep the chips away!!!. Couldn't get it bogged down for nothin. Most trees were alder 8-22"
I love this saw, I had too much fun to stop and take pictures, It would have gave my MS440 or 044 I used to have a run maybe worst.

Finally broke it late today, recoil spring!!! caused by my too advanced timing from Husky 55 coil.

NOTE: I figured out the coil interchange issue, a Husky 55 coil is not a direct bolt on to SOME!!! Partners, there are "2" flywheels, the keyway is offset at two different degrees depending on saw. Mine were all too advanced except for one. Also all my older R series with points also had the proper timing. The difference is about 10 degrees!!!! The key way is either before or after 3 o-clock. (magnets facing upward)

Anyone else ever notice this?

 

[timberdollars]

Partner 65cc saw hp changes

So I finished up a few of my saws and took them out today to because I have a real "Mean" F65 that just blows my mind!!!! I tested a S65 and F65 I just put together that are all original with just new rings and seals. These were both open port newer model 65cc cylinders. All had Tilly hs274 none rebuilt, same mufflers, All ran fine.
"Mean" F65 wich has the older model R-series cylinders with closed ports, small fins had a 24" bar new Carlton 1A chisel
other F65 and S65 have open ports, with 20" bar same new chain as other.


NO WAY!!! my "mean" F65 just walks away, no bogging, just screams!! the other two are 30 year old low rpm grunt saws working a 20" max bar. They pull good but are slow 9000 rpms less in the cut. The other saw is like running a full modded 044 or 372 with 13,000rpms and chips flying everywhere. I am impressed beyond belief in this old model 65cc engine. It has more power than my P70 by far and loads more compression.

Note: sheared two keyways so far on flywheel. my compression was 197psi last I checked, its rough on the fingers!!!!!

End result: older R-series cylinders in both 55 and 65 have more power, I have confirmed this just like the 500/5000+ difference.

Just passing it on due to having a collection of running widely varying Partners with different parts.

 

[Nardoo]

Duene,
That makes interesting reading and I concur that there were a number of differences in the porting of those cylinders in that series. Certainly some I have run are noticably better but I have not found it as clear cut as you. One closed port 65 cylinder I thought was going to be a world beater is a lugger. And a real late model open ported S650 is a revver. I have a real nice R421 coming this week and I will be intersted to know what is inside.
I wonder whether Partner just used what ever p/c combinations that had on hand when saws were being built or if there was a real plan to make pro/consumer saws. Or maybe thay have been retro fitted at dealers after failures. I have one 500 Partner with a 5000 top end. I wonder how it got like that - factory or dealer?
I have read where Poulans experienced similar things with the factory building saws that were out of spec because they had run out of the correct parts. Lucky consumers who get an upgraded saw for the same price.

When my brother was factory trained as a Mercury outboard motor mechanic in the early 70's he told me they were assembling 7.5 HP mercs with 10 HP top ends in them because they had run out of parts. The 7.5 and 10 were basically the same motor with only porting differences but the 7.5's were much cheaper and very popular. The guys getting a 10 for the price of a 7.5 never knew but I bet they thought they had the fastest 7.5 horse on the river!

Al.

 

[timberdollars]

Parter R series

Duene,
That makes interesting reading and I concur that there were a number of differences in the porting of those cylinders in that series. Certainly some I have run are noticably better but I have not found it as clear cut as you. One closed port 65 cylinder I thought was going to be a world beater is a lugger. And a real late model open ported S650 is a revver. I have a real nice R421 coming this week and I will be intersted to know what is inside.
I wonder whether Partner just used what ever p/c combinations that had on hand when saws were being built or if there was a real plan to make pro/consumer saws. Or maybe thay have been retro fitted at dealers after failures. I have one 500 Partner with a 5000 top end. I wonder how it got like that - factory or dealer?
I have read where Poulans experienced similar things with the factory building saws that were out of spec because they had run out of the correct parts. Lucky consumers who get an upgraded saw for the same price.

When my brother was factory trained as a Mercury outboard motor mechanic in the early 70's he told me they were assembling 7.5 HP mercs with 10 HP top ends in them because they had run out of parts. The 7.5 and 10 were basically the same motor with only porting differences but the 7.5's were much cheaper and very popular. The guys getting a 10 for the price of a 7.5 never knew but I bet they thought they had the fastest 7.5 horse on the river!

Al.

You will want to use that R421, I have R17 R18 R421 and others, the F65 I run is very old and may be one of the first, it is for all purposes a R series. I am not impressed with any later model 65cc cylinders be it open or closed. I AM A FIRM!!! believer that the divided port exguast is the key to a Partner, The outlet area is huge even with the divider, it is very loud in comparison.
I noticed these issues early on with 55cc cylinders but didn't care much as it's only 55cc, but my R16 R17 will pull like mules!!! they have much power than my open port 65cc. Same thing divided exguast.
I think that Partner put the T-Port on saws because the starting issue and compression can be annoying, but I think its costs a little power. I believed the P70/7000 to be the best in the Hp department but now am rethinkin that.
IMO the older the better with Partners, A small fin closed port, and Hs174 or ws18 will open your eyes, be it 55cc or 65cc, I think I'll use this F65 a little more then tear it down put seals, and any small items needed and use it from here on out. I'm all smiles when using it despite the weigh of my wide bar and the hard to start issue. ( compression psi)

Good luck with your 421, I have a couple, one missing parts, one complete but apart now for rebuild.
Duane

 

[Roanoker494]

Partner 5000 plus

I have a chance at what is suppose to be a running Partner 5000 plus but it has none of the original markings left, the biggest thing I am interested in is the OEM closed port top end. Wondering if there is anyway to know for 100% this is a 5000 plus without being able to actually have the saw in my hands? I know there was a regular 5000 and I believe a 500 that looked very similar, it not identical. Did the other models also have a closed port top end? This could boil down to a buy it and hope for the best situation, after all there would be no way to know if someone had swapped a open port top end onto the saw.

 

[Arrowhead]

I have a chance at what is suppose to be a running Partner 5000 plus but it has none of the original markings left, the biggest thing I am interested in is the OEM closed port top end. Wondering if there is anyway to know for 100% this is a 5000 plus without being able to actually have the saw in my hands? I know there was a regular 5000 and I believe a 500 that looked very similar, it not identical. Did the other models also have a closed port top end? This could boil down to a buy it and hope for the best situation, after all there would be no way to know if someone had swapped a open port top end onto the saw.

There are no differences in the cosmetics of a 500/5000. All 500's are open port (unless somebody changed it). The only difference is the handle brace on the 5000. I have heard of a 5000 open port, but never seen anything in writing to confirm. People with 5000 open ports, may just have a 5000 that had a 500 top put on it. The saw should have an id tag on near the throttle lever. If it says 5000, the only way it would not be a closed port is if somebody swapped a 500 top on it. If you are referring to the e-bay saw, I believe it should have a closed port. I been watching it for weeks, he keeps lowering the price. I'd snag it if I didn't already have a bunch.

 

[timberdollars]

partner 5000

I have a chance at what is suppose to be a running Partner 5000 plus but it has none of the original markings left, the biggest thing I am interested in is the OEM closed port top end. Wondering if there is anyway to know for 100% this is a 5000 plus without being able to actually have the saw in my hands? I know there was a regular 5000 and I believe a 500 that looked very similar, it not identical. Did the other models also have a closed port top end? This could boil down to a buy it and hope for the best situation, after all there would be no way to know if someone had swapped a open port top end onto the saw.

The oem tag will tell the truth too!!!! Hard to tell otherwise, but the PLUS had extra brace on bottom, requires three parts to install on non Plus models, so if it has the brace your good most the time. 5000+ is only one with closed port, but all those saws are good anyways. Oh yah I'm sure your referring to the one on eBay, I have chatted a bit with the owner, he has had it on there for a month, the answers I got back made no sense, i think its a scored unit or ????

 

[gink595]

Here is the casting number off of a P5000 cylinder if you can read them.

 

[Arrowhead]

Here is the casting number off of a P5000 cylinder if you can read them.

Frank, that cylinder is junk, it's full of holes. Send it to me and I'll dispose of it.

 

[mama]

Well my new rings came in for my P-55, got them installed and shes running but I think the seals are bad. The idle is all over the place and when I move the saw in different positions it rev's real high. I have the seals but could use some pointers on installation.as I have never done them before.Thanks.

 

[nmurph]

Take pics bf you remove them so you will know how deep to seat them.
Grind a notch in the side of a small, straight screwdriver to use to pull the seals. Alternatively, you can drill a tiny hole in the seal and use a screw to pull with.
Grease the seals with a little oil and use a deep well socket to seat them.

 

[Modifiedmark]

The oem tag will tell the truth too!!!! Hard to tell otherwise, but the PLUS had extra brace on bottom, requires three parts to install on non Plus models, so if it has the brace your good most the time. 5000+ is only one with closed port, but all those saws are good anyways. Oh yah I'm sure your referring to the one on eBay, I have chatted a bit with the owner, he has had it on there for a month, the answers I got back made no sense, i think its a scored unit or ????

I'm not totally convinced thats all correct. The plain 5000 also had the handle brace as well as the 5000+

 

[timberdollars]

5000

I'm not totally convinced thats all correct. The plain 5000 also had the handle brace as well as the 5000+

you got me, I forgot about that, I keep forgetting about the plain 5000 as I rarely see them now, just 500 and 5000+, or made up 500 frankensaws.

 

[timberdollars]

55 partner seals

Well my new rings came in for my P-55, got them installed and shes running but I think the seals are bad. The idle is all over the place and when I move the saw in different positions it rev's real high. I have the seals but could use some pointers on installation.as I have never done them before.Thanks.

First off!!! there is a sleeve pressed on to the shaft on the clutch side, it looks like a washer, DO NOT PRY ON IT!!!! it will break, I can only say good luck!!! try a torch on it first to heat it up then pliers or a screw driver all the way behind it to the shaft. If your lucky it will be loose, NEVER been my case. I choose the BUY new sleeve first before changing clutch side seal!!!! I just ordered 3 but only received 1, so thats not looking good but they should be available still. Just be careful, yours may be easy to remove.
Other side is easy. Just don't gun them on with the air!!!! theres a slot to lock the flywheel located next to the muffer on the starter side slide a carb adjusting screwdriver or something into it and turn starter till it locks into hole located between the magnets. clutch is REVERSE threads.

OK so I rechecked my workshop manual and it says to use two screwdrivers and then a two jaw puller!!! never worked for me, but there it is, a little heat from a micro torch always worked for me so???
Duane

 

[mama]

Thanks Duane so the P55 is different than the S55 for pulling the seals. I'm have the seals for my S55 are they the same as the P55. I don't have a IPL are Workshop manual for either saws anymore, my computer crashed awhile back and lost alot of downloaded material. Where do you get your seals from, Thanks again.