Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Freakingstang said:
Need, need.... there you go again....
perfect combination?
- Thread starter wood junky
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Need, need.... there you go again....
fishhuntcutwood
Full wraps and long bars!!!!!!!!!
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wood junky said:
Check my sig! The best cc range is oh...about 59cc to 92cc or thereabouts, with 71 and 77 in between.
Four Paws
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think it is fair to say most recreational firewood cutters can get along quite well with one saw in the 50-60cc range. Additional saws fill the gaps and serve us well in specific cutting situations...or simply satisfy our desires to own a plethora of saws in the event we may ever need them.
I reach for:
Camping, trimming up around the property, and when the wife cuts with me.
-Shindaiwa 416 with 13" bar & .325" chain
Smaller Jobs/Trees
-Dolmar 5100S with 18" bar & 3/8" chain
-Shindaiwa 695 Wrap with 24" bar & 3/8" chain
Larger Jobs/Trees
-Shindaiwa 577 with 20" bar & 3/8" chain
-Shindaiwa 757 Wrap with 28" bar & 3/8" chain
I think most will agree, a smaller cc woods ported saw will keep you cutting longer and cheaper (less weight, less gas, less initial investment) with almost identical power and speed as the bigger saw. Unless you are milling, cutting for a living, or just plain want one, a saw over 80cc would be hard to justify.
I reach for:
Camping, trimming up around the property, and when the wife cuts with me.
-Shindaiwa 416 with 13" bar & .325" chain
Smaller Jobs/Trees
-Dolmar 5100S with 18" bar & 3/8" chain
-Shindaiwa 695 Wrap with 24" bar & 3/8" chain
Larger Jobs/Trees
-Shindaiwa 577 with 20" bar & 3/8" chain
-Shindaiwa 757 Wrap with 28" bar & 3/8" chain
I think most will agree, a smaller cc woods ported saw will keep you cutting longer and cheaper (less weight, less gas, less initial investment) with almost identical power and speed as the bigger saw. Unless you are milling, cutting for a living, or just plain want one, a saw over 80cc would be hard to justify.
346XP limbing and smaller wood
372XP for the larger wood
390XP? for the fun of it & our big Oaks.( waiting for the reviews first )
Cutting firewood and dropping a bunch of trees for the day to cut up i just dont see how you guys running 60cc saw are limbing with them things with out a smaller chainsaw, crazy or your eating a better breakfast then i .
If cutting firewood you need at least 2 chainsaws.
#1 to fell and buck
#2 to limb and for smaller wood.
372XP for the larger wood
390XP? for the fun of it & our big Oaks.( waiting for the reviews first )
Cutting firewood and dropping a bunch of trees for the day to cut up i just dont see how you guys running 60cc saw are limbing with them things with out a smaller chainsaw, crazy or your eating a better breakfast then i .
If cutting firewood you need at least 2 chainsaws.
#1 to fell and buck
#2 to limb and for smaller wood.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Rspike said:
If you select the right 60 cc saw, it isn't nesessarily too heavy for limbing.
Since I got the MS361 a couple of years ago, I have used that one for felling, limbing and bucking the mature/main logs.
With an 8-pin and 15" bar, it is one he*l of a limbing saw.
My wood is mainly birch, so the limbing isn't like with most conifers....
The 3 cube saw definately has a function anyway - my 353 have been used for cutting up tops and other leftovers after the 361 has done its work - and for thinning.
Which changes the arrival of the 372xpg will bring, remains to be seen... :biggrinbounce2:
The trees i cut like Oak , hedge , hackberry , Elm , mulberry ect ... are monster branches all over the place.
I've got a Husqvarna 359 and i wouldnt want to be limbing with this thing most of the day.
Pecker poles are a different story and not too many limbs and not the tree I'm talking about or dealing with.
Pictured is what I'm talking about. This is a 2 chainsaw kinda day felling a bunch of these bad boys.
I've got a Husqvarna 359 and i wouldnt want to be limbing with this thing most of the day.
Pecker poles are a different story and not too many limbs and not the tree I'm talking about or dealing with.
Pictured is what I'm talking about. This is a 2 chainsaw kinda day felling a bunch of these bad boys.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Nice picture - really nice...
I think the prinsiple will be much the same as I mentioned, but the size and hardness of the trees will of course pretty much dictate the size of the largest saw.....:biggrinbounce2:
The small one should be a 3 cube saw, anyway (as we both said)....
Where the borderline between the large saw and the 3 cube is in such trees, is up each and everyone to define for himself, of course.....
I think the prinsiple will be much the same as I mentioned, but the size and hardness of the trees will of course pretty much dictate the size of the largest saw.....:biggrinbounce2:
The small one should be a 3 cube saw, anyway (as we both said)....
Where the borderline between the large saw and the 3 cube is in such trees, is up each and everyone to define for himself, of course.....
NOTE: not "my" original picture tho i did photo edit a few things to it for a desk top picture , there picture is posted in the picture forum.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=30788&highlight=sunset+oak
original picture posted by treeco
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=30788&highlight=sunset+oak
original picture posted by treeco
NYH1
Tacticle Chainsaw Operator.
For me a 353 w/ 16" b&c and a 357XP w/ 18" and/or 20" b&c would be just right. Don't have either yet! I've been getting by with my 021 and 029 the six years. Can't wait to get the Husky's!
Chopwood
ArboristSite Guru
That's kind of like having the same saw x2. Buy the 357 and find a used big saw like a 385 or a 394/5. Unless you cut all small stuff.NYH1 said:
Hard Knocks
ArboristSite Operative
I agree with NYH1. There is a big enough difference between the 353-16" and the 357XP-18" to own one of each. If you had to add another it would be the 372XP-20"
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