Pioneer 1074 no idle possible

[HarleyT]

http://www.walbro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/WAseries.pdf

 

[Moondust]

Ok i will take it apart again and clean everything out.
A new lever i don't have, this is not in the replacement kit.

That pdf i'm using right now to try to get the chainsaw back up and running.

 

[HarleyT]

The lever and hinge should have been in the kit. Here is a pic of a kit.

 

[HarleyT]

While the needle is out, make sure the passage underneath is clean and totally clear too.

You might drop by a local small engine shop, any mechanic will have a drawer full of leftover carb kit parts, and would likely give you a new lever.

 

[HarleyT]

And he also may have the lever setting gauge handy.

 

[Moondust]

thanks

i was wrong about the parts.
The lever (part that drives the needle) and hing (lever rotates around this) are in the kit.

And is it correct that there are parts in the kit that are not for this carburator?

 

[dougand3]

And is it correct that there are parts in the kit that are not for this carburator?

Yes, you always have parts left over.

 

[Moondust]

Hey

So what's done.

I've got a completely clean carburator. And i've rebuild it again with the new parts. The are marked in blue.

But unfortunately this was not the big solution.
I've got still the same problem.

I can start the saw with half throttle, Full throttle isn't a problem, but when i release the throttle to go to idle the saw stops. And when i hear that the rpm's are going down i immediately give full throttle but that doesn't stop the saw from stopping.
I've adjusted the idle needle screw clock and counter clockwise, but that either doesn't fix the problem.

I think that i used all the right parts , see picture above.
So, where can i have an other look at. Is it a carburator problem or is it maybe something else?

Best regards

 

[HarleyT]

Cleaning and re-gapping the points would definitely be a next step.

 

[Moondust]

Cleaning and re-gapping the points would definitely be a next step.

Hello

The cleaning is ok, now it is just like a new carburator.
Re-gapping the points?
Do you mean adjusting the idle needle screw, metering level plate, adjust throttle screw. If so, this i already done.
So i don't know where to look now, i'm about to doubt that the carburator is the problem.

But i can't see/find no other problem why the saw can't operate idle.

 

[dougand3]

Harley means the 1074 is a breaker points / condenser ignition system. A circular box is under the flywheel - points and condenser beside it. Here is a workshop manual with photos - download it.

I'm not convinced the carb is operating properly. I'd try another carb - even one just similar. The Stihl MS 180 carb should fit and have the impulse hole in the correct place. In USA, we can get one for $8.

 

[Moondust]

Hi

everything is checked. But i got still the same problem.

I also bought a new spark plug. This was not the solution but i have see something else.
Because the saw didn't started i removed the spark plug and put i against the exhaust. The i pull but i have not Always a nice spark. So now i'm gonna measure the spark plug cable as i think that maybe there is a crack in the cable.

 

[HarleyT]

Did you clean and regap the ignition points?

 

[HarleyT]

Here is something I found online, I don't like how he does things, but it will show you what I am talking about.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...51B1478BE9542AEF256C51B1478BE954&&FORM=VRDGAR

 

[Moondust]

@HarleyT
Thank you for the information and video.

I've done the regap on the outside of the flywheel.
Under the flywheel is a little bit out of my comfort zone. But now with the video i gonne try it.

 

[Moondust]

Today i've started to remove the flywheel.
The nut wasn't a problem, but the flywheel didn't come of the shaft.
So now i need first to look for a crankcase puller.

 

[HarleyT]

Today i've started to remove the flywheel.
The nut wasn't a problem, but the flywheel didn't come of the shaft.
So now i need first to look for a crankcase puller.

No, you need to pull the flywheel.

 

[dougand3]

Thread nut back on. Don't let crankshaft extend above nut: a little below nut level. Hold flywheel and let saw dangle in air. Tap nut with a hammer. Holding saw by the flywheel pulls on flywheel and tapping nut causes it to release. CLUNK....it's off and bangs against nut.

You can use a puller but I rarely find the legs line up well. 2 leg will fit more saws than 3 leg.

 

[Moondust]

Thread nut back on. Don't let crankshaft extend above nut: a little below nut level. Hold flywheel and let saw dangle in air. Tap nut with a hammer. Holding saw by the flywheel pulls on flywheel and tapping nut causes it to release. CLUNK....it's off and bangs against nut.

You can use a puller but I rarely find the legs line up well. 2 leg will fit more saws than 3 leg.

I was trying to do it this way, by holding the saw with the flywheel and than tap the nut.
But it didn't release, so i was afraid to damage something inside the saw.

Is it right that the crankshaft is conical?
How hard can i tap the nut?

 

[dougand3]

Yes, flywheel side crankshaft is conical - that's what really holds the flywheel in place. Yes, it may feel like you are tapping too hard - but if hitting the nut with crankshaft threads just below level of nut, there is little risk of damage. It's an experience thing - the more you do, the better feel you have for it. Squirting some PBlaster, Liquid Wrench or other solvent down crankshaft can help.