Pioneer 1074 no idle possible

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I finally removed the flywheel and cleaned and re-gaped the ignition points (0.015 converted 0.389mm, and used 0.4mm to measure the gap).

I've started the saw but the problem is still there.
After a few restarts i noticed that starting was getting harder and harder. So i removed the spark plug, put it on some metal and pulled the saw. I saw almost no spark, so i twisted the sparkcable and tried again. Now there were Sparks again but not really big strong ones.
I measured the sparkcable and there was no crack in the cable.

Any suggestion where i can start checking again?
 
i used a sandpaper 400 and put it between the contact points, and then moved it a couple of times
 
Closing the points onto clean and dry paper, then pulling the paper while the points are closed, will wipe off all of the crap.

I am guessing that you still have ignition issues.
 
After sanding the contact i've used some air to clean it.
So i will use some paper again to make sure it is clean and dry.

I also removed th flywheel again to look for the condensor. (not the same as a capacitor?)
Its a FG-607-C type. So now i can look for a new one.

One more thing i didn't mension before.
When i work on the flywheel (chainblade is in the table), the gasoline is running out the saw through the gas tank air vent hose. I have no idea how this is happening because this is a position u can use when u are cutting a tree (still the Original hose).
 
I was looking for a new condenser but are there more specs for this type FG-607-C condenser?
I found some in Belgium but they are used for classic cars or bikes.
 
I was looking for a new condenser but are there more specs for this type FG-607-C condenser?
I found some in Belgium but they are used for classic cars or bikes.

I think those condensers were originally designed for outboard engines. They are very common on old Mercury units and I think they were also used on those once popular Swedish small outboards such as the Crescent.
I see no reason why they shouldn't be also used on smaller automotive applications.

Regarding specifications... you are not the first nor the last who aks for them. They are incredibly hard to come by but if I find something in the future I'll be sure to let you know.
 
Has somebody an idea why there is petrol comming out by the ventinghose of the petrol tank?
It's like there is some pressure inside the petrol tank.
 
IMG_20171018_180605_aan.jpg

It's the black shiny hose in the left underside. And it goes to the left upperside inside a hole in the saw and ends at the backside of the chain.
 
That hex fitting is likely the vent/check valve, you might just try to put a regular vent on the end of the hose, just cut the hose short and leave the vent in that little pocket.
 
The hex fitting is the petrol hose to the carburator.
The shiny hose is just on a little plug that comes out the petrol tank.

you might just try to put a regular vent on the end of the hose
How does this look like?

regards
 
It was quite for a while because i was doing all the things that were told.
So this is the result:

Cleaning the point with sandpaper and then cleaning it with a dry paper.
Re gapping the point 0.015" so i used 0.4mm.

Cleaning the flywheel with compressed air.
re gapping the flywheel 0.012" so i used 0.3mm.

Result, i got no spark at all. (before i did this a had some weak Sparks).
I've already double checked the gaps and it all looks good.

So now i really don't know what to do. I think that mayby the sparkplug cable is the one who is making all the trouble. But i can't remove the cable from the high tension coil. Is this just a screw connection??
 

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