Pioneer 1074 Wont start

[mixemlewis]

Not sure if it was. There's a indent in the one side on the top

 

[dsell]

Here's the clip I'm referring to. Also, 1073 IPL which may be similar to the 1074. Maybe this will explain the pieces you are asking about. I couldn't find a 1074 ipl.

 

[mixemlewis]

Haha ya that little guy was the one that holds the cover on. Looked for it on my table for 20 mins before I seen him hiding down in there

 

[mixemlewis]

Went flying when I took off the cover

 

[mixemlewis]

Thx man. Didn't see the little piece of felt. I think it was just an isolator. So when the crank turns how and where should the points be mating together?

 

[dsell]

There may have been felt glued on the cover where the crankshaft goes through. The IPL shows item 120 which would be a felt seal behind the cover on the post that held the cover on. The breaker points when fully open should be set at .015 in gap according to acresinternet on the 1074.

 

[mixemlewis]

Should they be perfectly in line when contacted together?

 

[mixemlewis]

Is there a way to test the points with a multimeter?

 

[dsell]

Is there a way to test the points with a multimeter?

Yes, you can remove the wires and test for continuity between the case and the screw the wires were on.

 

[dsell]

Should they be perfectly in line when contacted together?

They are typically lined up a lot better than yours.

 

[dsell]

You should get a new set of points and condenser.

 

[mixemlewis]

Where might one find them for relatively cheap? And any way to get it going without replacing them? Also how do you do that test with the multimeter?

 

[dsell]

Check Ebay for your points, obviously cheaper if you can find it in your area. I assume you are in Nova Scotia. Put the ohm meter setting around 200 ohms. Touch the leads together and write down the reading on paper. (all leads have some resistance) Remove the wires from the points. Touch one end of the meter lead to the screw the wire was on. Touch the other meter lead to the saw case. Turn the crankshaft to open and close the points. Meter should go from open or infinite ohms to the number you wrote on the paper. If your meter isn't auto ranging and the points are very bad, you may have to increase the ohms range to be high enough to read the resistance.

 

[Old2stroke]

Old capacitors have a habit of drying out and going bad. Any capacitor of another saw will work if you can make it fit somewhere.
You might want to think about replacing the points and capacitor with one of the semiconductor modules that are fairly cheap and easy to come by. Try a google search on "magneto modules" to see what I mean. Below is just one example. Can probably find them on Amazon.
http://pickersyard.weebly.com/atom-universal-electronic-ignition-module.html

 

[mixemlewis]

I don

Old capacitors have a habit of drying out and going bad. Any capacitor of another saw will work if you can make it fit somewhere.
You might want to think about replacing the points and capacitor with one of the semiconductor modules that are fairly cheap and easy to come by. Try a google search on "magneto modules" to see what I mean. Below is just one example. Can probably find them on Amazon.
http://pickersyard.weebly.com/atom-universal-electronic-ignition-module.html

t understand how these would work/ how to install

 

[Old2stroke]

They come with instructions and are real easy to install, but they only replace the points and condenser (capacitor), so you have to be sure the coil is good before going this route. Did you follow dsell's advice on setting the points? You should also make sure the wiring between the points, capacitor and coil is not shorting to ground and remove the wire going to the ignition switch just to eliminate it as a problem. A good step would be to try a different capacitor (they're cheap). The coil can be checked with an ohm meter, the primary (points lead to coil ground) should be low resistance and secondary (plug lead to coil ground) should be very high resistance, but a simple resistance check with a regular ohm meter isn't conclusive as the internal insulation could be breaking down under high voltage. I have had great success in getting ignition parts for old out of production saws from Chainsawr.
https://store.chainsawr.com/

 

[mixemlewis]

No I couldnt figure out how to get the proper readings with the multimeter. I have to try to get my hands on a gap gauge to check the gaps. When the magnet on the flywheel is contacting the magnetos, should the points be fully mater together or open?

 

[Old2stroke]

Just clean the points by doubling over a strip of 400 grit silicon carbide paper and pulling it through the points as you squeeze them together. The points are closed (touching each other) for most of the revolution of the crankshaft and the spark occurs when the lobe on the crankshaft opens the points. The flywheel is keyed to the crankshaft so the position of the magnets is fixed to the crankshaft and they will be passing by the coil as the points open.
This is a very simple ignition system. If the points are clean and gapped correctly and if there are no shorts to ground in the wiring, then the lack of spark is due to a bad capacitor or a bad coil. Also the gap between the coil and the flywheel is critical and is best set by placing a business card between the coil and the flywheel, then rotating the flywheel to the position where the magnets pull the coil to the flywheel, then tighten the coil mount screws.

 

[mixemlewis]

Should both magnetos on the coil be set at the same gap from the flywheel?

 

[mixemlewis]

ordered the electronic module. How is timing set on those?