Pioneer chainsaws

[pioneerguy600]

The tool to remove the AV monnt rubbers from the Pro saws is P/N 432377.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Brmorgan]

Of course! I am in no hurry at all. I didn't realize you were sending a cylinder too! Problem solved.

How do I split the case? I can seperate the handle area a bit but when I get up by the carb area it won't budge. Is there a way to put a puller on the crank and bolt it to the case, use that to pull it apart?

Best way to split a case is generally to get a good piece of stiff steel bar stock, like 2" wide by 1/2" thick or more. Drill three holes in it - two to fit over the bar mount studs, and one more directly over the crank, which needs to either be threaded or have a nut welded overtop of. Secure the bar to the studs with the mounting nuts, grind a corresponding bolt to a bit of a point, and drive it into the crank through the threaded hole just like you would with any regular gear/wheel puller. This should pull the case half away from the crank. I've only done it a couple times and it took a good bit of effort to get the seal to "pop" at first, much like pulling a flywheel, but after that it was easy.

There are many threads and pics here regarding case splitting methods, but the above is what most guys do unless they have the specific OEM toolset kicking around already. If my explanation was clear as mud, let me know and I'll take a picture of the one splitter jig that I have downstairs. I can't remember what saw I drilled it for though, so I may not be able to put it on one to show exactly what I mean.

 

[propliner]

I've always been able to split the cases on those saws by carefully using the prying method but you might have a stubborn one.

 

[P62]

AV Mount Tool

The tool to remove the AV monnt rubbers from the Pro saws is P/N 432377.
Pioneerguy600

Jerry
The tool they show appears to be for removing and installing mounts that are complete. Will it work on the stud and washer when the rubber mount has separated? Might need a tool similar to a seal puller only have the self theaded end on the inside. It would be nice to run accross another set of Pioneer tools for the P series. I have a tool kit set for the older IEL saws. I think showed them to you when you were here for a visit.

 

[briantutt]

Best way to split a case is generally to get a good piece of stiff steel bar stock, like 2" wide by 1/2" thick or more. Drill three holes in it - two to fit over the bar mount studs, and one more directly over the crank, which needs to either be threaded or have a nut welded overtop of. Secure the bar to the studs with the mounting nuts, grind a corresponding bolt to a bit of a point, and drive it into the crank through the threaded hole just like you would with any regular gear/wheel puller. This should pull the case half away from the crank. I've only done it a couple times and it took a good bit of effort to get the seal to "pop" at first, much like pulling a flywheel, but after that it was easy.

There are many threads and pics here regarding case splitting methods, but the above is what most guys do unless they have the specific OEM toolset kicking around already. If my explanation was clear as mud, let me know and I'll take a picture of the one splitter jig that I have downstairs. I can't remember what saw I drilled it for though, so I may not be able to put it on one to show exactly what I mean.

Do I leave the oiler cover on? I basically follow what your saying except that the crank pokes out further than the bar studs so I would have to weld a tall sleeve or something on the third hole to get above the crank and allow me to put a pointed bolt in to push on the crank.

Would it hurt to try my universal slotted puller on the flywheel side and bolt it to three of the threaded holes that surround the crank on that side? Or will I break something!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Jerry
The tool they show appears to be for removing and installing mounts that are complete. Will it work on the stud and washer when the rubber mount has separated? Might need a tool similar to a seal puller only have the self theaded end on the inside. It would be nice to run accross another set of Pioneer tools for the P series. I have a tool kit set for the older IEL saws. I think showed them to you when you were here for a visit.

You are correct Jeff, the tool threads on over the rubber with a left hand thread , it was just a pipe/cylinder with coarse threads that would thread into the rubber and grip it well enough to remove the opposite threaded end if it was not stuck too hard. If the rubber is separated from that end that tool would not work on just the steel part. To get them out of some saws I have spotted on a nut with the mig welder,then turned them out with a socket wrench.
Pioneerguy600

 

[pioneerguy600]

Do I leave the oiler cover on? I basically follow what your saying except that the crank pokes out further than the bar studs so I would have to weld a tall sleeve or something on the third hole to get above the crank and allow me to put a pointed bolt in to push on the crank.

Would it hurt to try my universal slotted puller on the flywheel side and bolt it to three of the threaded holes that surround the crank on that side? Or will I break something!

If you can get 3 machine screws in around the crank then I would use that option and push on the end of the crank with the puller bolt. The cases should come apart using this method without any damage. I have pulled cases using only 2 machine screws and not damaged any yet. IMO
Pioneerguy600

 

[briantutt]

Darn it anyway

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400087415287&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBUAA:US:1123

 

[pioneerguy600]

Darn it anyway

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400087415287&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBUAA:US:1123

Did you miss out on another one?
Pioneerguy600

 

[briantutt]

did you miss out on another one?
Pioneerguy600

yes!

 

[Jacob J.]

You got to bid aggressively if you want Pioneer parts anymore. There's a couple hundred old Pioneer enthusiasts besides the guys on this site and they snap up all the good stuff.

 

[propliner]

I missed out on my cylinder, air filter and handle last week. It seems that Pioneer parts are becoming quite popular recently. Prices are higher than ever and everything I put up seems to sell in a hurry.

 

[Arrowhead]

Check out the "Pioneer 655" on e-bay. After close inspection I believe its a P42 or P45. I think someone replaced the upper handle with one from a Poulan 655. The clutch cover and lower handle looks like a 40 series to me. I can not make out the mod number. What do you 655 owners think it is?

 

[pioneerguy600]

You got to bid aggressively if you want Pioneer parts anymore. There's a couple hundred old Pioneer enthusiasts besides the guys on this site and they snap up all the good stuff.

YEP.
Pioneerguy600

 

[pioneerguy600]

Its a crap shoot out there. If you really want a part or saw bid higher than what its worth, if its not worth that much to you then you will likely just be left in the dust. You just never know who is watching a particular item and it is all over in the last few seconds. I place a bid at the maximum I would pay for that item, win most but loose a few, you just got to know what the items are going for currently. Ebay is almost always 20-30% over private sales and on some items nearly 100% if it is a hard to find part.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Jacob J.]

I missed out on my cylinder, air filter and handle last week. It seems that Pioneer parts are becoming quite popular recently. Prices are higher than ever and everything I put up seems to sell in a hurry.

Don't feel bad. I missed out on a very rare Wiseco piston and rings that I've been looking high and low for since 2004. I'd probably called and e-mailed 40 or so dealers looking for this thing. When new, it brought $122.

The other night I decided to do a 'completed' item search and there it was, brand new. I missed the auction by a lousy 9 minutes and it went for the measly sum of $16.

 

[propliner]

Don't feel bad. I missed out on a very rare Wiseco piston and rings that I've been looking high and low for since 2004. I'd probably called and e-mailed 40 or so dealers looking for this thing. When new, it brought $122.

The other night I decided to do a 'completed' item search and there it was, brand new. I missed the auction by a lousy 9 minutes and it went for the measly sum of $16.

Ouch.

 

[Busmech]

Pioneer 655

I am able to read the ID tag, you are right on, it is a P42 CBW. I sent the seller a message stating so, we'll see what happens.

 

[propliner]

I am able to read the ID tag, you are right on it is a P42 CBW. I sent the seller a message stating so, we'll see what happens

.

Good eyes, fellas. It'd be a shame for someone to overpay for a smaller saw and then have to deal with the hassles of straightening out the deal. Well trained eyes indeed.

 

[Arrowhead]

The person with the e-bay P42 made the correct changes to it, and lowered the starting bid.