Pioneer chainsaws

Rugged made
Wesspur
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I just have a hard time seeing the reason for making them that way, but there must be one.

BTW, the DD was available with three different gear ratios: 3.2:1, 3.9:1, and 4.6:1. There should be a number stamped on top of the transmission housing that tells you the ratio. Now if only I could remember what the numbers were...
 
My mistake

Sorry about that,just saw the red colour and thought it was a J model,should have took my time and read the post properly!.I will try and find a picture of one and post it.
Lawrence
 
artie__bc said:
I just have a hard time seeing the reason for making them that way, but there must be one.

BTW, the DD was available with three different gear ratios: 3.2:1, 3.9:1, and 4.6:1. There should be a number stamped on top of the transmission housing that tells you the ratio. Now if only I could remember what the numbers were...
Click to expand...

We must have the 4.6 ratio, I will take a look later and let you know what I find.

petesoldsaw said:
Sorry about that,just saw the red colour and thought it was a J model,should have took my time and read the post properly!.I will try and find a picture of one and post it.
Lawrence
Click to expand...

No probs.
 
artie__bc said:
I just have a hard time seeing the reason for making them that way, but there must be one.

BTW, the DD was available with three different gear ratios: 3.2:1, 3.9:1, and 4.6:1. There should be a number stamped on top of the transmission housing that tells you the ratio. Now if only I could remember what the numbers were...
Click to expand...

It could be a stamping/manufacturing issue. If the stamping tool design was too agressive it could have been leaving cold cracks. They may have just added a weld bead over it to avoid tooling rework.
 
Here is JA. Sorry it's a bad pic, but it's the best I've got. And no it's not mine...:)

attachment.php
 
Last edited:
Signoflife said:
Santa has a drop off policy around here only and no returns!

You are right about the shape and you are certainly welcome, glad I could share, the picture anyway!:greenchainsaw::cheers:

I gotta change the sig now, way too many saws to stick down there now.
Click to expand...

Made me laugh. I was just hoping Santa would drop one off like yours at my house(not yours,LOL). I dunno about Santa.......I've asked for all kinds of IEL's/big Remington/Homelite gear drives.......I think she's deaf. OOPPPS!!, did I just say that out loud :p

Seriously, that is a great saw, and I hope you and your family enjoy it for generations.
 
Fuel line Help

I just took the fuel filter out of the 3270 Super that I got from Crane (Drew).Well the filter is a screened brass thing,don't know if I will be able to salvage that.Any way the fuel line is almost shot.It is dried out sort of,well I think it's plain rotten.Do you just go and buy some sort of regular fuel line?How is it measured,buy the outside diameter or inside diameter or what?Would an auto supply have that or do you it buy it from a chainsaw dealer? Where you probably pay big time for it?
Thanks in Advance
Lawrence
 
petesoldsaw said:
I just took the fuel filter out of the 3270 Super that I got from Crane (Drew).Well the filter is a screened brass thing,don't know if I will be able to salvage that.Any way the fuel line is almost shot.It is dried out sort of,well I think it's plain rotten.Do you just go and buy some sort of regular fuel line?How is it measured,buy the outside diameter or inside diameter or what?Would an auto supply have that or do you it buy it from a chainsaw dealer? Where you probably pay big time for it?
Thanks in Advance
Lawrence
Click to expand...

Here's an answer from one of the least experienced in this thread. :D

You can use a "regular" fuel line.

Measure by the ID as it has to fit snugly onto the barbs.

I buy mine from an auto parts place (although they do carry stuff for trailers, and do sell small engines, etc). The stuff I buy is also used on snow machines, so I know that it can handle colder temps.

HTH
 
Lawrence,

I have debated this same idea with myself. Do you try to use original fuel line/filter, or something new. I really like useing tygon line. It is yellowish in colour and soft and flexible. For the in tank work(no one can see it), That's what I use with a new filter. I usually pick up a selection of filters of different sizes and keep them at the bench.
At least you can run the saw, and down the road if you happen to come across a NOS line and filter, you can change it out then. Just be careful and make sure it is proper fuel line. Not all black hose will take kindly to fuel. In my experience, fuel line is advertised as the ID(inside dia.) I usually keep a stock of a few feet of most of the common sizes, as well as different size filters.
How does that 3270 look, now that you have it apart? Sorry that the tank gave you a burn. There was some funky mojo in there. Thought I had it cleaned/aired out not bad. My apologies. It looked like it had sat for years with a half full tank.
 
Drew

Hey no worries!I don't have the saw apart yet.I was just trying to get rid of anything that was in the tank and air it out.I'm going to be cleaning a portion of it in the house,as the weather is getting cool hear and i have no heat in the garage.At least it's way warmer than you have back there.Yikes!
Thanks for the fuel line advice I will check it out when I can get a chance
Thanks
Lawrence
 
Hello Chris

Friendly Manitoba!Thanks for the advice Chris I will check out the local auto supply.Not much in the way of snowmobile shops where I live. LOL!
Lawrence
 
Hi guys
Dose anyone know if pioneer piston rings have a direction they go on the piston? I know some small engines have marks to indicate a taper in the ring and what direction the ring should go on the piston. I've got new rings for the piston on my 2400 and I don't want to put them on upside down. I can't seem to find any marks indicating a direction on the new rings. Perhaps the pioneer rings are not tapered and can go any direction?
 
Aviator25 said:
Hi guys
Dose anyone know if pioneer piston rings have a direction they go on the piston? I know some small engines have marks to indicate a taper in the ring and what direction the ring should go on the piston. I've got new rings for the piston on my 2400 and I don't want to put them on upside down. I can't seem to find any marks indicating a direction on the new rings. Perhaps the pioneer rings are not tapered and can go any direction?
Click to expand...


Wecome to AS and to the Pioneer thread.

One of our senior "techs" will clarify soon, but I believe that there is no taper on those rings, and they can be intalled either way. Just to make sure, there is no mark near the end of the ring? A little arrow or dot?
 
Aviator25 said:
Hi guys
Dose anyone know if pioneer piston rings have a direction they go on the piston? I know some small engines have marks to indicate a taper in the ring and what direction the ring should go on the piston. I've got new rings for the piston on my 2400 and I don't want to put them on upside down. I can't seem to find any marks indicating a direction on the new rings. Perhaps the pioneer rings are not tapered and can go any direction?
Click to expand...

The piston will have ring groove pins to prevent ring rotation in the grooves, the rings can go on either side up if they are not undercut to fit around the pins in the grooves.
Pioneerguy600
 
Since I seem to have no luck searching, I'll come right out and ask.

Are there any good parts resources for trying to get my P60 (freebie) running? If I hand-prime the carb it will kick over, but it won't stay running. I might need to start on an easier project before tackling something of this magnitude I think.
 

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