Pioneer chainsaws

[singleken45]

Ebay

Singleken: Do you mean fleebay or ebay? Im not famililar with fleebay. Do you have an address for that?
Thanks
Ron Z

Hi Ron , I meant ebay . Its gotten many AKAs in the years as a joke . I was going to mention also to check the Yoke which attaches to the Pinion & they work together .If you bid on that ebay Pinion , ask the seller about the Yoke for it .HTH ! God bless, Ken:agree2:

 

[Kilmathian]

Pioneer 600

Morning,

Just a quick introduction, I am reasonably new to this forum mainly residing in the Poulan section courtesy of 2 - 4200's. I have recently come into possession of a Pioneer 600 which has seen a period of storage time by the look of it, though still with a considerable amount of oil mixed with sawdust. The disappointing fact is that a 1/4 of the clutch cover is missing, the air filter has disintegrated. The main crankcase bearings seem tight, have removed the muffler to inspect the cylinder and piston which looks good internally. It has a rim sprocket and the clutch drum has some play in it so I think maybe the bearing there is shot.

Firstly, I was wondering if there was any interest in the saw or if there is any questions that anyone has. Secondly if anyone has any specifications on the saw that would be appreciated.

Justin

 

[pioneerguy600]

Mike Acres site has this info for you, Pioneer 600

SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER: YEAR INTRODUCED: 1958 YEAR DISCONTINUED: 1959 ENGINE DISPLACEMENT: 6.28 cu. in. (103cc) NUMBER OF CYLINDERS: 1 CYLINDER BORE: 2.25 in. (57mm) PISTON STROKE: 1.5625 in. (40mm) CYLINDER TYPE: Aliminum with cast iron sleeve INTAKE METHOD: Piston ported MANUFACTURER ADVERTISED H.P.: not advertised WEIGHT : OPERATOR CONFIGURATION: One Man operation HANDLEBAR SYSTEM: Rigid CHAIN BRAKE: none CLUTCH: Centrifugal DRIVE TYPE: Direct CONSTRUCTION: Die cast magnesium MAGNETO TYPE: Wico CARBURETOR: Tillotson HL-22A MAJOR REPAIR KIT: RK-88HL MINOR REPAIR KIT: DG-5HL AIR FILTER SYSTEM: Flocked screen STARTER TYPE: Pioneer automatic rewind OIL PUMP: Manual OPERATING RPM: 5,500 IGNITION TIMING: 30 degrees before TDC BREAKER POINT SETTING: .020 in. FLYWHEEL/COIL AIR GAP: position is fixed SPARK PLUG TYPE: Champion J8J SPARK PLUG GAP: .025 in. CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS: Ball FUEL TANK CAPACITY: 40 oz. (1182ml) FUEL OIL RATIO: 16:1 RECOMMENDED FUEL OCTANE: Regular MIX OIL SPECIFICATION: SAE 30 or Two-cycle mix CHAIN PITCH: .404 CHAIN TYPE: Pioneer C3F or C3G types BAR MOUNT PATTERN: 01 link SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 16 in. (40cm) LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED: 28 in. (71cm) COLOUR SCHEME: Pioneer Yellow PAINT CODES: ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST: SERVICE MANUAL:

 

[rzacc]

Jerry- Pioneerguy

Jerry- I've had that on and off a couple of times. I dont see how it can be messed up. It's in place, and not bent. Interesting thing is that if I lift it, so it is against the clip on the top of the pin on the housing, raised against gravity, the pinion riases farther. But I have to hold it up. The other thing is that if feels like th pinion (dngager) is coming up as far as it can, as it stops...something on the pully shaft keeps it from coming up father,,, and when I pulled hard on it, did did come off completley rom the shaft. Hope that makes sense. I popped it and it went back on, no problem. Weird....
Thanks
Ron

 

[rzacc]

Singleken fleebay

Howdy again Ken. Thanks for that....duh.... I should have see ebay...
Anyway, I've looked there several times and dont find it. I'll check again. Is it called a Pinion, on the ad? Pioneer Pinion? I've searched almost every way I can think of. I'll try again.
Thanks and May the Lord bless you richly!
Ron

 

[Modifiedmark]

Be very, very carefull of what you wish for there my friend......

I told him didn't I?

Here is Chis running his new 6-10 that he got from me yesterday.

<embed src="http://img217.imageshack.us/flvplayer.swf?f=Pchrisspioneer610" width="352" height="284" allowFullScreen="true" wmode="transparent" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"/>

Uploaded with <a target='_blank' href='http://imageshack.us'>ImageShack.us</a>

 

[pioneerguy600]

Jerry- I've had that on and off a couple of times. I dont see how it can be messed up. It's in place, and not bent. Interesting thing is that if I lift it, so it is against the clip on the top of the pin on the housing, raised against gravity, the pinion riases farther. But I have to hold it up. The other thing is that if feels like th pinion (dngager) is coming up as far as it can, as it stops...something on the pully shaft keeps it from coming up father,,, and when I pulled hard on it, did did come off completley rom the shaft. Hope that makes sense. I popped it and it went back on, no problem. Weird....
Thanks
Ron

On the rope rotor/pulley there is a set of spiral threads that the engager slides up, are those threads clean and smooth, if there are any burrs or the nylon material has gone sticky then the engager can," hang up" and not travel all the way up the threads.

Pioneerguy600

 

[singleken45]

Saw starter problems revisited

Ron, something I'm slowly learning about these saws is that you don't paint anything having to do with the starter parts . I'm restoring my saws & while doing it I'm also repainting them . Well some of my Yokes & Decompression parts were slightly rusted , so I cleaned them all up & painted them . When I was trying to put them back together , things just weren't working correct as before . My friend who makes his living at saw repairs , stops once in awhile if I need some help . Each saw he's helped me with . new paint was the problem . So once I removed the paint so the metal was bare , he could get it back together so they worked ok . My tip for the day so I hope its helpful . God bless, Ken:chainsawguy:

 

[Mastermind]

Ron, something I'm slowly learning about these saws is that you don't paint anything having to do with the starter parts . I'm restoring my saws & while doing it I'm also repainting them . Well some of my Yokes & Decompression parts were slightly rusted , so I cleaned them all up & painted them . When I was trying to put them back together , things just weren't working correct as before . My friend who makes his living at saw repairs , stops once in awhile if I need some help . Each saw he's helped me with . new paint was the problem . So once I removed the paint so the metal was bare , he could get it back together so they worked ok . My tip for the day so I hope its helpful . God bless, Ken:chainsawguy:

I've found some things about oiling stuff that really does not like oil.

When I was restoring my 1959 Williams Rocket pinball machine, I used a drop of oil on most of the solenoids, they worked great for a few weeks and then started sticking. On an electro-mechanical pinball machine the hundreds of contact points make a fine gray dust after firing a few thousand times, and that dust acts as a graphite type lube for nearly all moving parts inside the machine. It also mixes with any oil some idiot may put in the solenoids and turns into a sticky gummy mess. I ended up removing all the solenoids and cleaning them, twice!!! The oil made it's way into the windings and was nearly impossible to clean up.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Ron, something I'm slowly learning about these saws is that you don't paint anything having to do with the starter parts . I'm restoring my saws & while doing it I'm also repainting them . Well some of my Yokes & Decompression parts were slightly rusted , so I cleaned them all up & painted them . When I was trying to put them back together , things just weren't working correct as before . My friend who makes his living at saw repairs , stops once in awhile if I need some help . Each saw he's helped me with . new paint was the problem . So once I removed the paint so the metal was bare , he could get it back together so they worked ok . My tip for the day so I hope its helpful . God bless, Ken:chainsawguy:

On the Farmsaw all the starter parts are made froim a hard plastic/nylon material. They need to be kept dry of oil or other types of lubricant, def no paint. Oil actually softens the materials and makes them sticky.
Pioneerguy600

 

[briantutt]

what the :censored: does "flippy caps suck" mean ???

Qouting myself again but manyhobies put up the funniest youtube clip ever so I thought I would share it here.

Almost pee'd myself watching it.

><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/q4hIVaXlaw4?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed>

Mystery Solved...

 

[pioneerguy600]

I told him didn't I?

Here is Chis running his new 6-10 that he got from me yesterday.



The 6-10 looks to be pulling big chips, what length of bar you running and at what elevation are you cutting at?

Pioneerguy600

 

[little possum]

Ran the ol 600 today, kinda Kept trying to cut out on me, but I did get a few cookies cut in between all the vibrations.

Holiday decided to let me know the clutch is wore out.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Ran the ol 600 today, kinda Kept trying to cut out on me, but I did get a few cookies cut in between all the vibrations.

Holiday decided to let me know the clutch is wore out.

That`s life in the Pioneer fast lane. LOL
Carb and fuel lines are the most common little problem areas on the 600 series. Let me know what you find about the Holiday clutch.
Pioneerguy600

 

[little possum]

Just replaced the lines and fresh carb rebuilt/kit.
Couple of the older saws that we just got running decided not to run for the GTG today.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Just replaced the lines and fresh carb rebuilt/kit.
Couple of the older saws that we just got running decided not to run for the GTG today.

Well I think Will Parris will agree, the lines have to be tight on these old saws to keep the fuel coming up to the HL, the pickup line needs to be very flexable in the tank, the common tygon 1/4" fuel line is too stiff and the pickup often ends up at the top of the tank and not down in the fuel.The short piece of fuel line between the fuel bowl and the Tilly nipple needs to be tight and just the right length. You can adjust the H side when the saw is running to get the best power for the cutting conditions.
Pioneerguy600

 

[little possum]

Thanks Jerry, Ill see whats up. Got a antique showing next Saturday and would like to proudly show off a running 600 haha.

 

[parrisw]

Well I think Will Parris will agree, the lines have to be tight on these old saws to keep the fuel coming up to the HL, the pickup line needs to be very flexable in the tank, the common tygon 1/4" fuel line is too stiff and the pickup often ends up at the top of the tank and not down in the fuel.The short piece of fuel line between the fuel bowl and the Tilly nipple needs to be tight and just the right length. You can adjust the H side when the saw is running to get the best power for the cutting conditions.
Pioneerguy600

Yes, I agree, they need lots of fuel! I had to zap strap the pickup line to the nipple on the bottom of the filter bowl, I just used the tygon to get it going, since that's all I could find.

 

[Urbicide]

Howdy. I was searching for a Pioneer saw chain catalog or guide. I can cross-reference some types of Pioneer chain through some older Oregon & McCulloch literature, but it would be nice to have a dedicated list. Is such an item available? I was also wondering if Carlton manufactured Pioneer's chain?

Thanks guys.
Vince
VEUJR @ current.net

 

[pioneerguy600]

Howdy. I was searching for a Pioneer saw chain catalog or guide. I can cross-reference some types of Pioneer chain through some older Oregon & McCulloch literature, but it would be nice to have a dedicated list. Is such an item available? I was also wondering if Carlton manufactured Pioneer's chain?

Thanks guys.
Vince
VEUJR @ current.net

Pioneer actually made their own chain and had their own numbering system for it.

Pioneerguy600