Yes. I don't know what it is about a P-41 but they are tough. I have one I was replacing seals in and I have yet to get that flywheel off. Heat helps but its not easy.
Pioneer chainsaws
- Thread starter WesternSaw
- Start date
-
- Tags
- operator manual
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Yes. I don't know what it is about a P-41 but they are tough. I have one I was replacing seals in and I have yet to get that flywheel off. Heat helps but its not easy.
clintonior
ArboristSite Operative
Heat, I figured that. I haven't had a stubborn one this tough since pulling my cats secondary.
I have not started to sell mine off yet,...Lets see, 75-80 Pioneers @ that price.....LOL:msp_w00t:
When you started collecting you had no Idea that one day they'd become your retirement package?
Lou, when I started my collection the saws were just considered as cast offs. Mostly from my family members. Chainsaws were developing rapidly back in those days and every year or so brought a big improved model out so a 3-4 year old saw was just laid aside and a new one bought that had some improved features. A saw with 200-300 hrs on them were considered worn out.
Not sure your gonna find any one that simple !
If you do , PLEASE let us know ! :msp_w00t:
Not sure your gonna find any one that simple !
If you do , PLEASE let us know ! :msp_w00t:
No way!!! No way, not til I sell all of mine...LOL...:msp_smile:
Well, I see the ad is gone. Either he was locked up or get ready Jerry....... If you keep a modest collection, like 35 - 40 and put the rest up for sale you will have $100K or you'll be locked up as well (free room and board with medical benefits) Win Win either way.
When I retire in 4-5 years time I will start selling them off, 3-4 a year should be all I need for pocket money.....LOL
Even if you did sell them all. It would only last a couple of months at best. Then it would all be reinvested in saws again. I was down to twelve saws once. Thought I was over it. No such luck. What can we find next?
clintonior
ArboristSite Operative
Flywheel finnaly came off one tap before I was about to through in the towel. actually had to jam a screwdriver up under it plus the puller and a strong tap after heating it like 10 times had enough to pop it off didnt even mar the crankshaft. unbelivably happy when it let go though. she'd have sat on a shelf for awhile if it didnt pop off thats for sure. Now I need some seals can i get these local or are the specific to a 41? P#'s X2= 428746 
Last edited:
Flywheel finnaly came off one tap before I was about to through in the towel. actually had to jam a screwdriver up under it plus the puller and a strong tap after heating it like 10 times had enough to pop it off didnt even mar the crankshaft. unbelivably happy when it let go though. she'd have sat on a shelf for awhile if it didnt pop off thats for sure. Now I need so seals can i get these local or are the specific to a 41? I'm looking up the P#'s now
I think the Pioneer seals are hard to find so just use the Poulan PN for the 655 saw which has the same frame. They are still available and cheap.
PN 507428746
Don't forget to take a reference point for the oiler worm gear on the PTO side of the crank shaft so you can drive it back on to the same location unless you have the installation tool.
clintonior
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks, I meant to ask about that, what will it take scribing the journal? Would a sharpie marking be good enough? Then to remove this whats the safe way? Will I need some obsure tool ?
Last edited:
If you have a Vernier caliper, just measure from a step on the crank where it changes diameter or from the end of the crank to the edge of the worm gear. That will get you close enough. Taking a few pictures before you pull it off wouldn't hurt either. I wouldn't the try to scribe a crank ever and sharpie ink will come off when you pull the gear. You want to get the worm gear centred fairly well over the plastic pump gear.
When you're pulling it, gently pry from two sides with small pry bars or large screwdrivers. Don't pry in the threads, just from the backside of the gear. The gears are threaded on the inside as well and are very thin. I learned the hard way and split the gear. The worm gears seem to be readily available for less than $10 but the plastic pump gears are hard to come by. I think I reinstalled the gear using a piece of pipe. I heated the worm gear up to 250 degrees F in the oven to open it a bit to make installation easier.
clintonior
ArboristSite Operative
twenty day wait on my seals. i'll measure it and have a go at that gear. I was thinking i could sharpie the back of the gear as a stop line I may still might be cheap insurance. i have a Partner R421T showing up today so somting to do while I wait for these seals.
Good news/Bad news.
The good news is: I got the PP-655BP back together. Only took two years.:msp_w00t:
Repaired the fuel/oil tank partition, new piston w/rings, main bearings, crank seals, four new buffer/isolators and replaced misc. dog eared screws. Feels like it has great compression.
The bad news is: After two days standing at the workbench, my hemroids are barkin' and I can't pull the s.o.b. over.:msp_w00t:
Painted myself into a corner.
The good news is: I got the PP-655BP back together. Only took two years.:msp_w00t:
Repaired the fuel/oil tank partition, new piston w/rings, main bearings, crank seals, four new buffer/isolators and replaced misc. dog eared screws. Feels like it has great compression.
The bad news is: After two days standing at the workbench, my hemroids are barkin' and I can't pull the s.o.b. over.:msp_w00t:
Painted myself into a corner.
Last edited:
The compression release don't seem to have much effect. Maybe I should drill out the little port a bit?
The replacement manual bar oil pump off evilbay works like a champ. But, it needs a button.
The replacement manual bar oil pump off evilbay works like a champ. But, it needs a button.
Last edited:
Similar threads
- Locked
