Pioneer chainsaws

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Wish I had one for you but I have been looking for one myself for a couple of years now without finding a good one. Only ever found one NOS - OEM one in 20 years of looking. They must be out there someplace but remain scarce so far.

Here's the one I have for my restoration.

If anyone has a purdier one they are willing to part with it would be nice.
 
Here's a crappy cell phone pic of most of my saws. There's a few on another shelf. My RA parts are in the boxes on the right. Primed parts are laying against my beloved SuperTwin 51.

I haven't been active on here for about a year but have continued to buy, sell, trade and collect a few every now and then. I've become particular about which saws will get shelf space. As you can see, my IEL's are on top. That's not a coincidence.
 

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Just got my P41 running! Picked the saw up complete for less than the cost of a good meal - traded for a couple of parts and she started right up after the P/C were replaced.

Need to know the idle speed and top WOT speed as well as the right fuel mix for this saw.

Huge thanks to bplust for the parts trade... It wouldn't have happened without you.

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Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....
 
Just got my P41 running! Picked the saw up complete for less than the cost of a good meal - traded for a couple of parts and she started right up after the P/C were replaced.

Need to know the idle speed and top WOT speed as well as the right fuel mix for this saw.

Huge thanks to bplust for the parts trade... It wouldn't have happened without you.

ygunuzam.jpg


ade3a6yp.jpg


Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....
A P41HP (high performance) is a rare find. You have a good one.
 
I think you want to start with both screws out about 1 1/2-2 turns out from lightly seated. Set the low screw in or out so that it idles ok without stalling. You might have to adjust the tapered idle speed screw as well. Then, with the throttle wide open, turn the hi screw so that it starts to bog a bit (some call it four-stroking). This will allow some extra richness when you sink the bar into wood and it should cut hard and smooth under load. Go back to the Lo screw and make a final adjustment if needed. I ususally go back and forth a few times between hi and lo, adjusting them until they're happy with each other.
 
I will work on the tuning over the weekend. Hopefully this saw will stay a runner for a long time and I'll be rebuilding the carb soon. What gas mix should I feed it?

Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....
 
I will work on the tuning over the weekend. Hopefully this saw will stay a runner for a long time and I'll be rebuilding the carb soon. What gas mix should I feed it?

Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....

40:1 mix of a modern, quality two-stroke oil. Check for excessive carbon buildup periodically. It this is evident then possibly lean the mix to 50:1. I like to mix with aviation 100 octane fuel (avgas). Storage is never a problem with it.

Remember, carbon buildup is the enemy in these engines. It's what flakes off and scores pistons and cylinders.
 
I will run the canned 40:1 stuff for the time beingbut I have easy access to E-free fuel at the pump so when I mix its always good fuel and either Stihl synthetic or Belray M1c.......thanks for letting me know that 40:1 is ok in this saw. I'm still kinda new at this.

Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....
 
Just got my P41 running! Picked the saw up complete for less than the cost of a good meal - traded for a couple of parts and she started right up after the P/C were replaced.

Need to know the idle speed and top WOT speed as well as the right fuel mix for this saw.

Huge thanks to bplust for the parts trade... It wouldn't have happened without you.

ygunuzam.jpg


ade3a6yp.jpg


Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....

Nice saw. The spike is on up-side-down though. :)
I agree 100% with Brendon's (propliner) recommendations on the carb adjustments and fuel mix.
I run all my Pioneers at 43:1. It sounds weird, but that's 3oz of oil per gallon. I buy a box of 100 3oz dixie cups for a buck.
I use them when I'm mixing fuel. It's quick and easy and cheap. A full 3oz dixie cup per gallon equals out to 43:1. Then just
junk the dixie cup when your done.
 
I think you want to start with both screws out about 1 1/2-2 turns out from lightly seated. Set the low screw in or out so that it idles ok without stalling. You might have to adjust the tapered idle speed screw as well. Then, with the throttle wide open, turn the hi screw so that it starts to bog a bit (some call it four-stroking). This will allow some extra richness when you sink the bar into wood and it should cut hard and smooth under load. Go back to the Lo screw and make a final adjustment if needed. I ususally go back and forth a few times between hi and lo, adjusting them until they're happy with each other.

Exactly as Propliner explained it. Tach readouts only give you a number, and you still have to tune an old saw or a modified saw by ear.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I'm still looking for a few small items - and it looks like I need to turn that felling spike over! - but this saw already impresses me. Should the comp be low though? I was expecting it to be a bit higher than 110 psi like it is now....

Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....
 
Thanks for all the advice. I'm still looking for a few small items - and it looks like I need to turn that felling spike over! - but this saw already impresses me. Should the comp be low though? I was expecting it to be a bit higher than 110 psi like it is now....

Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....

What other items do you need? I most likely have them.
110psi is on the low side. New they were advertised at 150psi. They are a reed valve saw, so they can run on a lower comp. than a non-reed saw.
If you plan on keeping the saw, I'd pull the jug off and inspect the piston and cylinder. Most likely it may just need a new rings due to normal usage.
They jug comes off very easy. You'll need a long 3/16" allen wrench. If the jug is scratch free with no signs of scoring, and the piston looks good, I'd
put a new set of rings in it. The P41 uses 2 very thin rings. They can be very hard to find for the P41. You can check with Rottmans or I'd check with Hastings. Hastings have a huge variety of rings. You will need ring measurements, not the saw model if you go to Hastings.
I do have a couple NOS sets of P41 rings that I'm saving, but I can give you the measurements off them you'd need if you buy from Hastings.

If your impressed with it at 110psi, you will be very impressed if you can get it back to 150psi or greater. I always check the squish on all my Pioneers I rebuild... (actually all saws period). You can safely run as tight as .018" on a P41. In a lot of cases, you can remove the base gasket and still have a squish larger than .018 on a P41. This helps in building compression, and changes the exhaust timing just a bit... making it more torque.
 

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