Pioneer chainsaws

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So does the p39-p41 share the same case as the pp455 and p45. I was just wondering if a p45 p/c would fit on a p41?
 
So does the p39-p41 share the same case as the pp455 and p45. I was just wondering if a p45 p/c would fit on a p41?
Piston and cylinder should fit, but you will have to update the ignition to the newer p45 module and flywheel as the mounting bosses are different. Flywheels and modules are the same from the newer p39, p42, etc. and up.
 
FarmSaw mistery?
Finally getting around to working on my farmsaw. It took for ever, but I finally got my oil pump drive gear puller 474329 made. It's a hybrid and uses a husky puller as the driver. With this I was able to change the crank seals. The delema is that the saw still has very noticeable RPM change/increase as the saw is rolled on it's side and will even stall when returned to normal position. In the cut it reliably goes into 2 stroke mode and back to 4 stroke with no load. Pulls and cuts great IMO for this mid size saw. close enough to my 272xp....
Break in the fuel line in the tank? I have a carb kit and will change that but I am not convinced that will work. Any suggestions? I can get my saws running well in most cases, but this one is definitely a challenge...
 
Guess that may be the next step, but if there is a base gasket leak why would putting the engine on its side change the fuel ratio? I would have thought new crank seals would have "some effect" if that was the problem on this 35+year old 1979 saw.
If I pull the muffler and carb... for the new carb kit... I will make the block off plates and pressure/vac test it. I guess I'll be testing it both with and without the pressure release.
 
Alright question, I'm new to the site here. I have a pioneer p45 that I would like to replace the carb on. Does anyone know where I could find a replacement part for that? I have found the repair kits just not the entire carb which is what I would prefer to do if possible. Thanks in advance for any help!
 
+hi there, i already made this post but i think i did it in the wrong place as im new to the forum, just got a 3270 minus carb, blowback tube air filter, cover and the grrommet thing around mixture screws and the whole primer assy. was wondering if anybody had any of these parts theyd be willing to part with or knew of where to find them, thanks very much for your time, Sam. oh i also have a 610 and a couple of partners and a stihl ms660 for work lol423095361.jpg 423095393.jpg 423095432.jpg 423095457.jpg
 
if I were missin carb & primer, id look for choke carb. have a 2270, all that from 1200a fit it. what im sayin is don't just look for 3270 [yep, got one o those, too] parts. the 3270 is a pretty healthy saw. worth spendin some time & a lil $ on.
 
if I were missin carb & primer, id look for choke carb. have a 2270, all that from 1200a fit it. what im sayin is don't just look for 3270 [yep, got one o those, too] parts. the 3270 is a pretty healthy saw. worth spendin some time & a lil $ on.
hay rocketnorton thanks for the reply, me in my haste already bought a hs39b lol maybe it was the wrong way to go haha, owell only cost me 40 bucks nz including postage so cant complain. yeah from what ive heard theyre reall healthy saws, cant wait to cut with it, originally i wanted to strip it down go thru it and blast and paint, but i might try get some use out of it first
 
FarmSaw mistery?
Finally getting around to working on my farmsaw. It took for ever, but I finally got my oil pump drive gear puller 474329 made. It's a hybrid and uses a husky puller as the driver. With this I was able to change the crank seals. The delema is that the saw still has very noticeable RPM change/increase as the saw is rolled on it's side and will even stall when returned to normal position. In the cut it reliably goes into 2 stroke mode and back to 4 stroke with no load. Pulls and cuts great IMO for this mid size saw. close enough to my 272xp....
Break in the fuel line in the tank? I have a carb kit and will change that but I am not convinced that will work. Any suggestions? I can get my saws running well in most cases, but this one is definitely a challenge...

I've had Homelites do that when the fuel filter hung up and pulled out of the fuel when tipped on their side.
Reed block / carb adaptes (is one piece) on the P series are very easily cracked and cause air leaks.

The in-tank fuel line and filter are easy to change and worth doing. Look for cracks inside the block when you've removed the carb.

I have a P41 that changed speed on it's side so I changed the seals. Same thing. Turns out it was the carb. I'm not sure what it was but a good cleaning and kit fixed it.
 
Alright question, I'm new to the site here. I have a pioneer p45 that I would like to replace the carb on. Does anyone know where I could find a replacement part for that? I have found the repair kits just not the entire carb which is what I would prefer to do if possible. Thanks in advance for any help!

I'm assuming it has a WJ carb. Why not just put the kit in the carb?
 
I've had Homelites do that when the fuel filter hung up and pulled out of the fuel when tipped on their side.
Reed block / carb adaptes (is one piece) on the P series are very easily cracked and cause air leaks.

The in-tank fuel line and filter are easy to change and worth doing. Look for cracks inside the block when you've removed the carb.

I have a P41 that changed speed on it's side so I changed the seals. Same thing. Turns out it was the carb. I'm not sure what it was but a good cleaning and kit fixed it.

I have also seen different old Homelite reed valve motors that have different reed holder with and without little fuel drain holes. So I thought a similar effect might be in play here. Of course only the experienced pioneer mechanics would have a clue.
I... not being one of them.... :givebeer:
 
The Homies have the reed block and a separate carb adapter. The Pioneers are all in one (single reed) and are fragile. I guess the ham fisted broke a lot of these. Be gentle with it.
The cracks are usually visible in the block and usually emanate from the nut molded into the plastic. They tend to be scarce.
The Farmsaw starters are fragile as well. Don't ever defeat the starter activated comp release or you may break the starter assembly and they are very difficult to come by.

If the blue Prestolite coil fails, quite a few guys have had luck bringing them back by heating them in an oven for two hours at 250 deg F.

Nice saws though.
 
hi all, my 3270 came with no primer at all, and they seem to be as rare as rocking horse s?)t, would i simply be able to blank off the hardware or retrofit a generic one off of something? i know niether of these fixs are close to ideal but may have to make do untill something turns up
 

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