Pioneer chainsaws

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What new bars are compatable with the pioneer p50? Looking for a 24" bar
For a new bar, one easy solution is to use a large Husky mount bar. You can get pretty much whatever bar you want, and it takes very little modification of the bar. I've definitely used other bars on Pioneers over the years, but Husky mount is the simple answer.

My bigger saws will easily pull .404, but I mostly use 3/8, even on the 655BP. Less chain weight and a skinnier kerf.
 
For a new bar, one easy solution is to use a large Husky mount bar. You can get pretty much whatever bar you want, and it takes very little modification of the bar. I've definitely used other bars on Pioneers over the years, but Husky mount is the simple answer.

My bigger saws will easily pull .404, but I mostly use 3/8, even on the 655BP. Less chain weight and a skinnier kerf.
What kind of modifications would be needed? I was looking at getting an Oregon bar
 
I will just throw this in since I have modified lots of bars over the years to fit many different saws. Usually it takes making the slot fit the studs if it is narrower just file it out to fit, the bars are not hardened at the slot area so it will file out easily if needed. Once it will fit on the studs it will allow you to check to see if the oil delivery hole/holes will line up to the delivery slot in the bar pad, most times the hole in the bar can just be slotted a bit to match up. I have both slotted the original hole or even made a new hole to line up properly, take into account that the hole needs to stay aligned with the slot when the bar is as far toward the clutch as possible and when it is forward as far as the bar studs allow it to travel. These modifications are very easy to do so just take time to make sure oil can get to the bar slot for the chain to be properly lubed.
 
I will just throw this in since I have modified lots of bars over the years to fit many different saws. Usually it takes making the slot fit the studs if it is narrower just file it out to fit, the bars are not hardened at the slot area so it will file out easily if needed. Once it will fit on the studs it will allow you to check to see if the oil delivery hole/holes will line up to the delivery slot in the bar pad, most times the hole in the bar can just be slotted a bit to match up. I have both slotted the original hole or even made a new hole to line up properly, take into account that the hole needs to stay aligned with the slot when the bar is as far toward the clutch as possible and when it is forward as far as the bar studs allow it to travel. These modifications are very easy to do so just take time to make sure oil can get to the bar slot for the chain to be properly lubed.

That is very complete explanation.
 
I will just throw this in since I have modified lots of bars over the years to fit many different saws. Usually it takes making the slot fit the studs if it is narrower just file it out to fit, the bars are not hardened at the slot area so it will file out easily if needed. Once it will fit on the studs it will allow you to check to see if the oil delivery hole/holes will line up to the delivery slot in the bar pad, most times the hole in the bar can just be slotted a bit to match up. I have both slotted the original hole or even made a new hole to line up properly, take into account that the hole needs to stay aligned with the slot when the bar is as far toward the clutch as possible and when it is forward as far as the bar studs allow it to travel. These modifications are very easy to do so just take time to make sure oil can get to the bar slot for the chain to be properly lubed.
Thanks for all the help but what do you mean by "slotted the original hole" when talking about the oil delivery hole?
 
Thanks for all the help but what do you mean by "slotted the original hole" when talking about the oil delivery hole?

You may get away with kind of making it an elongated oval shape but I cut it a tad further making it more like a slot to reach the oil delivery trough in the bar pad. I start with the original oil hole in the bar and then extend that hole, usually it needs to be moved downward toward the bar studs but that may not always be the case, it would depend on what bar you are working with.
 
^^^^

Yes, and, a drill press is your best friend.[emoji106]

Carl,..I like to use my die grinder but I have had a lot more practice with one than most others. A good carbide bit will make quick work of slotting an oil hole in any direction it needs to go. If drilling a new hole then yes I use my drill press.
 
You may get away with kind of making it an elongated oval shape but I cut it a tad further making it more like a slot to reach the oil delivery trough in the bar pad. I start with the original oil hole in the bar and then extend that hole, usually it needs to be moved downward toward the bar studs but that may not always be the case, it would depend on what bar you are working with.
Ok thats what i was thinking. Ill probably have to make a new hole cause i font really have a way to elongate it
 
Two of my fire wood getters,


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rByXx3SQCKAITPGrn145KK616_WSol6_brvT3ZncPeN2wW0AXhwF7N12qFxXCG0Tx4GJjcY2rm-hRSduUgTBsHwgvaG53WJ9bOgEBMpWCLjFj58sJuzMNVPG3br0vh5y4uCi26gwqBlWjW0FzIfslbs2ZCaPdkvvYZD9LYXvEAxQEe8UzBcxSHl95ia8rKhaKPhDDEqvVxoBbXpBEEh4qx79bx3MWGgwMlui8GlclDz7JsgWV7pS-GAgFjJzRSv40CUGB6iIgtnH3_mW_DHRivHDHtj7wruSsaWUxN0SjM5Nk72_vFmm9cUuW2imtzgx-YtEQY6JhgAritVE469i99qAp4GFUzsICXGBvCBtVsgRu1lC_PIgL2cQq9BuE-LClrvkvFiHEA4lFTnfJH3mE1-4e08y5opCuwyNA66FHrX1_NUTNPRIS4wcn_bsI9oDyR-PPmZ6fIRFILbbzgY0DJZThJz_97gr3fmUOz8eV1PkOfj-MDs8LY5otEWaEK2JAhfHDdzFWzxTta-pojNFjx6gQED3nO-c2zMhK1d3U5ZtolkAm9-4yEYX1jg9akw=w1743-h978-no
 
Nice looking saws. The throttle lock out on my p50 dosnt spring back up when released. It just sits inside the handle any suggestions?
 

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